Installing/Testing TPS Sensor

[dwillms]

So, I'm looking for a little technical info on installing and testing a new TPS sensor. Picked one up from the 'yard, from a Prelude 2.0. The Honda Shop Manual doesn't have great instructions on which way to install the sensor, as to which way it goes into the throttle body correctly.

I got my Accord dirt-cheap because the guy I bought it from knew zip, and basically jimmy-rigged the entire car together. The shop manual shows a Throttle Stop Screw which I don't even have or see anywhere near my linkage, and it says to adjust the TPS to a position where the throttle stop lever just touches the stop screw, and then check voltage. Too bad I don't even have the stop screw to do that.

Also, it says to use a system checker harness to measure TPS voltage, but I know on my Trans Am, I am able to just back-probe the harness to check voltage and sweep from closed to WOT. Am I able to do the same thing with this Accord, and which wires can I probe?

Thanks,
-Dustin

[SteveDX89]

You might be better off getting an entire throttle body if you're missing other stuff as well.

[A20A1]

The throttle stop screw is a tiny allen wrench bolt...

The TPS prongs face forward... also the screws securing the TPS are hard to remove.

First I marked the TPS position on the TB, then I used a file to make a slit in the head of the screw for a flat head... then carefully unsrewed them.

When I removed the sensor it was sligtly under tension, it had a spring or something wound up... nothing major though.

The stop screw is not absolutely needed since it's set right where the throttle plate is fully closed... I guess it keeps the throttle plate from being damaged or damaginf the bore...

maybe stick a piece of paper to hold open the thottle plate slightly so that will give you the free play you need to make sure there is no voltage once the paper is removed.

I'm no TB expert though, I don't even have EFI.

[dwillms]

I didn't remove any part of the TPS assembly that was inside the throttle body, but took the outer assembly off using an 8mm socket(after finding that even though the screws are phillips, they are useless and strip super easy).

The spring in my TPS was under tension as well. I'm just not sure of which direction the TPS should face when installed, because the shop manual didn't explain it very well. I'll have to take a look at it more today and try to explain what I mean.

Oh yeah, I also thought about taking a different TB from the junkyard yesterday, but I can get whatever I need off of a 2.0, and anything small I get for free usually.

-Dustin

[dwillms]

Hey steve, I like the sleeper look of your car BTW. I picked up my accord as a beater/possible sleeper, so I like the route you took. How much for the b16 engine, and also for your header? Also, ever taken it to the strip to see what time you run in the 1/4 mile? And for your Prelude UCA's, why did you swap? I've heard of people doing this, I'm quite new to Honda's, and I'm wondering why and if I should b/c there are probably 5-6 prelude's in the junkyard I'm usually at in basically complete condition.

Thanks,
-Dustin

[SteveDX89]

I don't know if you can it too well in this pic but here's how the TPS goes.

The connector should point toward the pass. side of the car. On the TPS where it goes into the throttle body, there will be a piece of plastic sticking out. There's a slot that that part fits into. Then you rotate the TPS to line the holes up to put the screws in. You should feel tension as you're turning it.

Thanks for the comment on my car. The engine cost me $1250. The header was $285. I've taken it too a strip but I couldn't run it because I started losing oil pressure on the way there. I hope to be able to run sometime before winter but if not, next summer. I swapped to Prelude UCA's because they allow for camber adjustment where as the Accord arms do not. Since my car is lowered 2.25", I needed that adjustment. Currently, they are adjusted all the way out and I have about -.5º of camber. I would recommend swapping those out, even if you're car is not lowered. At least then if the ball joints go bad, you only have to spend 40 bucks on the ball joint instead of 100 for the whole arm and ball joint.

[dwillms]

So I threw the new sensor on, after looking at it a little more, I saw the slot that the arm of the TPS fits into. My older-style TPS has a ring though that lines up the holes to put the screws into the TB, so I made sure to point the sensor towards the PS fender, with the line on the TPS pointing vertical.

Anyways, I'm still getting the same problem. At WOT, the check engine light comes on at about 4500 RPM, and checking codes reveals code7 TPS every time.

Oh yeah, and besides that, both my valve cover and head gasket leak oil(even changed valve cover gasket), tranny is hooped, car idles about 1500-1700 RPM cold, throttle linkage not hooked up properly, and basically the whole wiring of the car is entirely jimmy-rigged together. I guess that's all that $250 gets you these days

I'm considering just yanking the engine, and starting from scratch, but haven't decided if I want to bother yet.

-Dustin