Oil All over the firewall behind carb

[ehulst]

alright i'm just woundering, since i'm going to be selling my car as a parts car not bothering doing anything more to it unless i can fix this one problem...

I had my car towed last week due to my transmission, long story short i took it out for a spin at the shop, thinking the fluid would help since all the other magicly disapeared, well i got 15 ft down the road from the shop and i herd this PPPPPPPPSSSSSSSSSSSST sound and knew something was up cause i looked behind me and i was leakin ALOT of something thinking it was tranny fluid, like i blew a seal or something since i was trying to get it to shift at 7 grand,well little did i kno the oil light came on as soon as i got the car turned right around to the drive way, luckly it was a hill so i just pushed it in N, got to the bottom of the hill @ the shop and jumped out of the car and looked under just to make sure i didn't blow 2 seals but just noticed alot of oil so I poped the hoood and saw Oil ALL over the place, mostly behind the carb, looked around, and thought it was the head gasget but wasn't, then saw the Oil Filter, well that O ring around it was poped up, so i explain to my macanic what happend, he said that looks to be the problem, so we put a new filter on thinking there was two rings there causing the blow out, well there wasn't, just one, so i had to leave and he called me back 20 mins later sayin that he started it up and it blew the O ring again from the oil filter, he said something about a valve but i didn't get all of it,

What could be the problem? I mean its has ALOT of Oil Pressure if its blowing that O-ring off i would Imagine....Could I fix just so i kno it will run again without blowing anything else?....or is it worth just leaving alone since i'm just going to be selling the car as parts since the trans is on its way out......sucks cause i literly just got it back on the road and this happned, TWO HOURS AFTER I GET AN INSPECTION STICKER and now its not worth it

[k-roy]

Might as well say fack it since its "junk" anyways.

[sporkHSP]

... so much for that cold air project huh? that sucks, but if you can find the problem you would probably be better off keeping it or selling it for parts with a good engine, a car wiht a bad engine and tranny wont fetch much money even parted out... just my opinion

[Elijah]

Check the o ring behind.The oil filter housing.I just had a similer problem.

[A20A1]

What oil filter did you use... I actualy turned up my oil pressure and and also ran with the K&N...

if the oil pressure relief valve is clogged then that could be your problem

['89AccordLX(Rus)]

To check the oil pressure relief(aka control valve) you need to remove the oil filter housing from the engine. The valve is horizontal in the housing. You need to remove the cap that hold it in on the side. If the valve is scored, dirty, or otherwise damaged, it will not work properly resulting in excessive pressure. The pressure the engine produces is sufficient to destroy the filter element unless the relief valve limits it. So your best bet is to try installing a junk yard oil filter housing. This would be simpler than trying to overhaul the old unit. Hope this helps.

[ehulst]

To check the oil pressure relief(aka control valve) you need to remove the oil filter housing from the engine. The valve is horizontal in the housing. You need to remove the cap that hold it in on the side. If the valve is scored, dirty, or otherwise damaged, it will not work properly resulting in excessive pressure. The pressure the engine produces is sufficient to destroy the filter element unless the relief valve limits it. So your best bet is to try installing a junk yard oil filter housing. This would be simpler than trying to overhaul the old unit. Hope this helps.

I take it, that this valve is on the underside of the base of the filter, it has a spring and a needle it looks(from manual). taken apart in order i will have the valve, valve spring, o-ring, with an 18x 1.5mm round tip w/ threds and a needle???

['89AccordLX(Rus)]

Yep, that sounds about right. I suggest that you get a spare oil filter housing before you tear down the valve. If it's faulty, you can just put on the spare and not worry about fixing the old valve. You also mentioned something about two filter gaskets? I hope you weren't doubling up the seals on the filter Just my $.02

P.S.: Don't forget to get the oil filter base o-ring from the dealer before you start taking things off. Also, you will need a large socket to remove the oil pressure sensor. Look in the oil pressure gauge how-to for the correct size. The rest is 10mm bolts (3 to be exact).

[ehulst]

Yep, that sounds about right. I suggest that you get a spare oil filter housing before you tear down the valve. If it's faulty, you can just put on the spare and not worry about fixing the old valve. You also mentioned something about two filter gaskets? I hope you weren't doubling up the seals on the filter Just my $.02

P.S.: Don't forget to get the oil filter base o-ring from the dealer before you start taking things off. Also, you will need a large socket to remove the oil pressure sensor. Look in the oil pressure gauge how-to for the correct size. The rest is 10mm bolts (3 to be exact).

i have the oil filter gasget, i had a new one put on i believe, but yah i mentioned two because thats what i thought it was, like the person who changed my oil before i did it myself may have put two on...i wanna rip it apart tonight when i get home from work and find out whats the problem...should i drain my oil first?

[89LxiAg]

Even though you have most of the oil scattered all over your car and the road, I would loosen the filter until I can turn it with my hand, then open the drain and let out whatever will come out, then take the filter off. May not make a difference, but that's what I would do. Cause when you put the new filter on, I would want clean oil in the engine anyway. Good luck!

['89AccordLX(Rus)]

Realistically you only need to remove the oil filter. Don't plan on a quick repair though. The oil filter base is a bit tough to get to, and removing the oil pressure sensor is pretty much a blind job since you can't really see the top of the base. Once the oil pressure sensor is out of the way, the job is pretty easy. Also, don't forget to use a little bit of liquid sealant on the threads of the oil pressure sensor and the valve retainer. Just enough to cover the threads is sufficient. Hope this helps.

[ehulst]

yah I'm gonna start taking it apart tommrow since its my day off of work, i'll prob. need a few anwsers to some things...Anyone Own a CRX Si before and wanna give me some good ideas and bad ideas on them? what they liked what they didn't?

[ehulst]

yah I'm gonna start taking it apart tommrow since its my day off of work, i'll prob. need a few anwsers to some things...Anyone Own a CRX Si before and wanna give me some good ideas and bad ideas on them? what they liked what they didn't?

Ok i got my flex pipe off, so its out of my way, but i'm having alot of trouble gettin my wrench up to the oil filter base, so i can remove those three bolts, Do i have to remove my intake manifold so its easier to get too?? I have no idea whats easier...Help

['89AccordLX(Rus)]

OK, well removing the flex pipe is not really required. You need a 24mm socket to first remove the oil pressure sensor. It is the thing on top of the base with a wire coming from it. You must first remove the rubber boot from the sensor, then unplug the wire, and then unscrew the sensor. After that just use a medium extension to reach the 3 oil filter base bolts, one on top right behind the oil pressure sensor, and two on the bottom corners. After the bolts are out, give the base a good jerk and it should pop off. Replace or clean as desired from there on. Hope this helps.

[ehulst]

OK, well removing the flex pipe is not really required. You need a 24mm socket to first remove the oil pressure sensor. It is the thing on top of the base with a wire coming from it. You must first remove the rubber boot from the sensor, then unplug the wire, and then unscrew the sensor. After that just use a medium extension to reach the 3 oil filter base bolts, one on top right behind the oil pressure sensor, and two on the bottom corners. After the bolts are out, give the base a good jerk and it should pop off. Replace or clean as desired from there on. Hope this helps.

it is easier from the bottom or top, at the top i got to many vachoses and the carb in the way, and i cant really reach it from behind the carb,on the bottom i'm blind doing the bolts...

[Elijah]

When I did it.I got the bottem 2 with a socket.But the top one I had to use a wrench.I did it all from under the car.But I had it up on a hoist.

[ehulst]

yah i'm working with ramps, so i mean its kinda tricky laying on your back sticking two hands up even tho i'm such a thin 17 year old, i still have problems working around things on this car lol

['89AccordLX(Rus)]

yah i'm working with ramps, so i mean its kinda tricky laying on your back sticking two hands up even tho i'm such a thin 17 year old, i still have problems working around things on this car lol

I did the exact same thing (and I am also 17). You can get a look at the bolts if you wedge your head up toward the steering rack. Getting some kind of head rest is also beneficial. As you correctly noted, you will be doing a lot of the work by feel. Also, you can try and use a short wrench on the top bolt, but since you are going to inspect the pressure relief valve instead of just changing the gasket, you might as well remove the oil pressure sensor and use a normal ratchet on the bolt.

P.S.: If you can get your hands on a mirror small enough to position it near the oil filter housing, you can get a better look at the bolts and sensor. Point flashlight at mirror and you'll elluminate the whole spot. Had to use that trick when I was stuck with the project at 11 pm

[ehulst]

how long did it take u to do...3 hours or so depending on how rusted the bolts are....

['89AccordLX(Rus)]

Since I had no experience with it it probably took me about 4 hours of work. I also didn't have some tools so that made the job even longer. The bolts should be pretty easy to break loose. Mine came out with moderate effort. Be carefull when you reposition the gasket and oil filter base on the block. The gasket will try to slip out and fall down.

[Vinny]

I put a small bit of permatex on the filter housing gasket, not alot just enough to get it semi-sticky and keep it in the groove

[ehulst]

yeah i got the top bolt left, but that dam sensor is killin me, i don't have a 24mm socket, all i have is 19mm, plus when i try to use a wrench i'm just shaveing down the groves so theres nothing to grab a hold too, will WD40 mess the senosor up if i spray it on?

['89AccordLX(Rus)]

Spraying WD-40 on the sensor will do little other than make it harder to grab on to. I used a crescent wrench with a size gauge on it to remove the sensor. Got it at home depot for about 7 bucks. Solved the problem of not having the correct wrench. If your wrench doesn't have any gauge marks on it( mine has both standard and metric) you may want to use a ruler and adjust the wrench to 24 mm, maybe a little bit less and carefully position it on the sensor. Then try to loosen it. It takes a while, but it will come out. As a last resort you can always buy a single 24mm socket for very little money. You may need a deep socket though.

P.S.: I assume you removed the rubber boot and wire from the sensor already.

[ehulst]

o yes all i have left is just remove the sensor and bolt and its out, but i'm kinda worried about the put together, looks hard. lol

[ehulst]

that dam sensor isn't coming off....i'm positive i stripped the head of it, i mean nothing was grabbing it and all it was just slip, didn't move didn't do shit, i tried to get my smaller wrench to the 10mm but i cant get a force to budge it, fricken sucks....so now i gotta wait and find my next move...i sure hope someone has a 24mm that they can lend me for a day....