STILL not working, vacuum leak? help

[Wipeout]

I don't even know where to begin.. so let's start here - a complete rundown of my vacuum lines.

A, B, and C are plugged. 2, 25, 6, and 14 are plugged into the main manifold vacuum port with three Ts. The line with the red arrow is connected.
I guess I have weird thermovalves. The main manifold vacuum one looks like this:

The "main intake manifold vacuum" is what I'm using, the other is plugged.
In the following picture, (1) is the plugged part of the main intake manifold vacuum stalk.

(2) is this blue plastic thing with two vacuum ports in a line. I don't know what it is, but it's not connected now. They're all capped.
(3) is another metal thing with three vacuum ports. None of them are connected right now either. They're also all capped.

I broke the rear vacuum line on the choke, see pic (don't worry about the question mark.. just look at the line where the vacuum port should be):

The nonbroken line is capped now, and I didn't do anything with the broken one.

Now, for the problem. My car still does this:
If you have WMP9 codecs: http://www.teamcaf.org/upload/honda/...blems-WMP9.avi (2.53 MB)
otherwise:
http://www.teamcaf.org/upload/honda/Honda-Problems.avi (12.2 MB)
They are the same video. WTF is going on?

[Wipeout]

I just tried plugging the broken choke port with some putty and it didn't make a difference. I've tried a few different setups with the vacuum lines but this is the most recent, and current, one. Fast idle works now, and creeps up from 2100 to 2400, then when I kick it down it idles at 1200 or so. Once it warms up, the crap starts happening.

[A20A1]

So you removed the choke then since you broke the choke parts?

I'm not sure if I can d/l the video and play it but I'll try, my connection is real slow.

[A20A1]

As long as the choke fully opens when the car is fully warm, you know after the fans come on at least twice... then I guess it's okay... but honestly I would remove the choke to elliminate it and a possible vacuum leak as well.

make sure that none of the diaphragm adjustment screw are interfering with the idle... if you removed A/C idle boost remove the adjustment screw.
That should rule it out as a trouble area when you make any adjustment to the idle controller screw and the throttle stop screw.

Did you touch the air fuel ratio screw at all?
best not to yet

Also
You could be injesting coolant... since after the car start to heat up the coolant will start to leak into the carb and possibly the intake manifold, it doesn't look like you replaced the gaskets between the manifold and the EFE plate or the gasket between the EFE plate and the carb.

If you did replace the gaskets then cool, damn your carb is dirty, why didn't you clean it while it was off?

[A20A1]

friken butt monkeys, it's gonna take me almost 2hours to d/l

I'm getting lunch.

[A20A1]

1 is manifold vacuum port.
2 and 3 are both thermovalves. the blue one is "A" the metal one is "B"

[A20A1]

Fuel or vacuum leak...

Choke isn't closed at all though... wass the car warmed up when you made that video?

If you are leaking vacuum from the choke puller they you might consider removing the choke plate and plugging both ports on the choke puller, that should stop any vacuum leaks from that area as long as the diapragm is sealing right...

It could be a base gasket vacuum leak as well, or coolant leak like I mentioned in an above post.

Also the port that you connected all the manifold vacuum lines (2,14,25) is just a pipe... the pipe is not always glued very tightly inside the manifold and doesn't always seal properly... so I suggest you try and wiggle, pull on the tube to see if it is loose...

check your ground wires, make sure the wire to the solenoid at the back of the carb is hooked up.

spray carb cleaner along the gasket between the manifold and head, also along the base of the carb...
if you can get the carb to run.

I love the sound of your exhaust, I had to watch the vid over again cause I was distracted by it. I need to make a vid of mine one day.

[Wipeout]

Whoa, thanks a ton for the help so far. My internet has been down for the last five hours so my last reply got lost. Yeah, the car was warmed up when I took the video. It runs okay when it's cold.. well, okay being it intermittently misses at idle like usual, but at least I can accelerate. I replaced both the EFE gasket and the carb to manifold gasket. I punched the EFE heater thing out and shaved the wires off, but I don't think that should matter. What does the solenoid on the back of the carburetor do? I'm pointing at it in the broken choke picture with a question mark, right? I've already sprayed carb cleaner along the gasket between the intake manifold and the head, and at the base of the carburetor. I'll check the main manifold vacuum thing to see if it's loose next. I'll also remove the choke. What do I plug when I remove it? Also, when I zip tied the choke plate all the way open, the car won't start, even when it's warm. Is this normal? How am I going to start it without a choke? Does anybody have an extra choke for sale? I am going to need one before winter, and the junkyard wants me to buy the whole carburetor.
Oh yeah, and the exhaust is a stock manifold with a catback 2.5" Flowmaster. It sounds pretty cool for a four banger :P

[A20A1]

well that solenoid needs to be plugged in... and working

As long as you have coolant running thru the port on the carb and to the manifold you should be good even in cold weather.... best thing to do is not to try and start it over and over again without waiting, you also need to refill the float bowl after you press the gas peadal

Basicly press the gas a few times to give the manifold some gas... then turn the key to the second position then off then to the second position again... do that a few times and you should be good to start the car... if not repeat the process.


Pumping the gas is good but the problem is, with no choke you are also increasing air flow as well.. thats why you should pump the gas before you start not while you are starting...

If you do pump while you start only open the throttle for a very short time... If you stomp the gas and hold it at all you will most likely kill the car

Once it start you can add a little thorttle to keep the rpms at about 2,500... or higher if you need too... if you have the right fuel mixture then you should be okay and not really do any damage from reving while you wait for the car to warm up some...

key things to set when you remove the choke is the throttle stop screw... this must be set to the best but also the lowest good idle speed when the car is hot so that you don't have a problem with a high rpm idle. You must completely disengage the idle controller screw when making throttle stop screw adjustments... after the stop screw is set then turn on the lights and fans (this will cause the idle to drop which is normal) now go ahead a set the throttle controttle diaphragm screw to increase the idle speed back to where you had it set before you turned the lights and fans on...

[Wipeout]

Yikes complicated. I will see if I can fix it without disconnecting the choke first. This car is gonna be my winter car so if possible I'd like to make winter starting relatively painless. Anything else to check? I'll make sure the solenoid is plugged in. What does it do?
Do you think it's a vacuum leak? I don't think coolant is leaking. Could it be anything else?

[Wipeout]

I still can't find any leaks. I haven't removed the choke yet - I really don't want to unless I have to. The choke works fine.
Oh, and it does the sucking sound thing when it's cold, too. I just started it up and tapped the gas and it did the same thing.

I just removed the A/C idle boost and the cruise control.

Are there supposed to be any vacuum ports uncapped anywhere?

No I haven't messed with any adjustment screws or anything.. and the reason I don't think it's the choke is because it did this before I broke the choke.

[Wipeout]

I put my head near the carburetor and pushed on the throttle with a screwdriver (stupid I know) and it sounds like the sucking sound is coming out of the primary barrel of the carburetor. It could also be the choke, though it really sounds like it's coming from the primary barrel. Any new leads on things to do? The thermovalves are both tight, by the way, and I'm not using either.

[accordlxi2.0]

i'm like a20a1, that exhuast sound's nice. i did a vac removal, but kept the choke, egr, cruise,ac. so i know what your going thru.
that solenoid in the back of the carb provide's fuel when the engine's running,i think you should leave it in.
that sucking sound is normal.
how about the venturi's what you might have to do in order to get it to idle without shutting off is raiseing the throttle stop screw. the more you raise it the more air goes in.
but look thru both barrel's if you see fuel dropping in the barrel's at idle, then something is either wrong with the float, or the venturi's are loose.
NOTHING should be left un capped. the carb hate's that.
since it's warm you should be able to start the car with the choke open.
it's just gonna be a lil' bad in the winter since it hate's being cold.

[A20A1]

you're making my hair fall out you know that... lol

J/K

[accordlxi2.0]

who me or him??

[Wipeout]

Haha
The car idles just great now. The problem is whenever I push the accelerator more than 10% it makes a sucking sound and the car tries to die. Sorry about your hair, I'll buy you a hat or something

[Wipeout]

OMG I am losing it. I could have sworn part of this post had disappeared and I had posted more information on it. WTF is going on?!

[accordlxi2.0]

still sound's like it running to rich . . . .

[Wipeout]

I doubt it's running rich. It idles just fine and I haven't messed with the idle mixture screw or anything. The venturis are tight and there is no fuel drippage. I might just get another carburetor from the junkyard.

[accordlxi2.0]

no homey don't give up yet, what about the float?
what level is the float set on.

[A20A1]

Reconnect ABC or you will run rich.

[Wipeout]

The float level is right where the line is - it looks like where it's supposed to. Where do I connect A, B, and C to? That thing I pulled out that says A B C on it? I can do that although I don't see why it would help - the car started doing this before I removed any vacuum lines.

[accordlxi2.0]

yea thier are lines that are not numbered and bigger than the reg. lines.
but that should'nt cause the problem, you might have to adjust the screw so the carb can adjust to the mod.

[Wipeout]

Yeah I think it has to be something else. If it were running rich, wouldn't it stumble on acceleration instead of making a dry sucking sound when I open the throttle?

[accordlxi2.0]

then i say leave that abc shit out.
ya got to richen it more
did ya replace both filter's.
plus a20a1 told me the float screw has a filter inside too.
it does this with the air filter off too??