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Thread: Tips and tricks on Rust Repair

  1. #1
    LX User
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    Post Tips and tricks on Rust Repair

    Ok, so Ive decided to do some rust repair, and I just need some input.
    The 2 main problems are left rear corner, inside the trunk, underneath the spare tire and the rocker arms.

    For the trunk, I've cut out the corner where the rust has eaten its way through. So, what do u guys suggest for filling that hole?? Also, underneath the spare tire, looks as though water has gotten in, and sat there, for ever. Im going to try my luck with a wire brush attached to a grinder, in hopes of gettin that plastic mat lookin stuff off.. What is that stuff anyways? And can it be replaced? Im not going to go crazy with removing the gas tank or anything, its not that bad, just appeares to be on the surface, but I guess u never know till u start grinding.

    Rocker arms: Im clueless on this one. I dont even know where to start. I did some make shift bondo work, just to cover it for the time being, obviously that will all have to come off. But its seperated from the support medal, that runs parallel to the sides of the car. Im open for suggestions.

    Also, the quarter panels. Im not planning on painting my car until winter, but I would Like to grind all this rust off while Im doing all this. One part that concerns me, would be where the quarter panel bends in, just above the tire, is almost completley gone. So, grinding this out will be alot of work, but I just dont want to replace the whole quarter. Im open for any ideas.

    The idea would be, for me to fix as much rust as possiable, and seal it, until she gets in for paint work. Looking forward to your replys, thx.



  2. #2

    k-roy's Avatar
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    Rust sucks ass. I got another Car just so I won't have to deal with it.
    The best way to do it and make sure it does not come back is to cut out all parts with rust then weld in new pieces. If its just on the surface you can get by with Navel Jelly, its a pink gel that dissolves rust. After using that sand it down to the bare metal then you can prime and paint over it. You should definitly remove the bumpers, front fenders, rear lenses, and the gas tank to expose all the spots that like to rust completly through. I hope you have a welder and some metalworking skills, cuz thats by far the best way to patch rust. Bondo is just a filler for small surface imperfections before painting, its not ment to fill holes. The problem is when you fill a hole with Bondo the sides of the hole ends up rusting again and the chunk just falls out, seen it 100 times. I think you were talking about rocker panels, rocker arms are in the head of the engine. As for the matting in the trunk its just soundproofing, its not needed and you can replace it with many things. Be sure to check the underbody and the wheel wells, they tend to rust right through if not caught soon enough. Also you should apply ZINC to the exposed metal before paint, ZINC is a natural rust inhibitor. You way also want to consider undercoating the entire car when your done to protect everything.
    Good luck!
    Last edited by k-roy; 08-10-2004 at 01:13 AM.
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  3. #3
    LX User rehv_Aerodeck86's Avatar
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    hm.. i also recently repaired some big rustholes in the weekend. since i dont have a welder, used polyester resin and fiberglass. process:

    1) cut our ruster areas with Dremel or sth
    2) sand the existing hole edges down to metal
    3) clean the inner surface
    4) place pieces of fiberglass in behind where needed
    5) use a brush or sth and wipe it over with polyester resin. wait til it dryes (?) a bit (~3 hours(, then apply another layer of fibeglass and apply polyester resin again.
    6) it would be best to let it dry overnight or at least 6 hours, to be a boner
    7) apply your fiberglass putty or whatever finishing material, fiberglass holds it nicely withour any special primer.
    8) paint it

    thsi fiberglass solution is amazingly strong for such a thin layer. if u want it to be indestructible , apply 4 layers or so.

    this polyerter shit costs here about 15$/gallon and fiberglass is nearly free of charge ( 2$/m2 or sth), so it's quite cheap. and 1 good feature : IT WILL NEVER RUST AGAIN

    here are some pics too. more coming in 6 hours or so, when i get home














    sry 56k
    Last edited by rehv_Aerodeck86; 08-10-2004 at 11:58 AM.

  4. #4
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    I can use just plain fiber glass to cover the hole?? It wont sag or anything??
    I thought I would have to use medal...

  5. #5
    3Geez Veteran smufguy's Avatar
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    i have to be honest, some of you guys are extremely skilled in body filling and body work. Damn im still a pussy to it. But anyways, you guys who do body filling and sanding and prepping, man....... you guys are talented.

  6. #6
    DX User Neoniu's Avatar
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    I used the fiberglass too. But....

    after one year, there are some bumps underneath the paint come out. They are still two different materials.
    If you want to fix it for a long time effect, cut the rust out entirely and then weld it.

  7. #7
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    there's also this expensive ass paint that you can buy and it will stop it from rusting further, and you just paint over that, but you are still left with the rust surface texture, which isn't that pretty.

  8. #8

    k-roy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ludi Mali
    there's also this expensive ass paint that you can buy and it will stop it from rusting further, and you just paint over that, but you are still left with the rust surface texture, which isn't that pretty.
    Ive tried something like that. Loctile and Rust Dr are two brands. It seems to work allright if you use it a few times and keep sanding.
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  9. #9
    LX User rehv_Aerodeck86's Avatar
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    the glassfiber technique is very cheap and quick. nice to do before ur gonna sell your car, or have to pass inspection and dont want to waste an assload of $$.

    my rear fix-up (fiberglass, putty, metallic color spray, sanding paper) costed about 10$

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