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Thread: Full-Race-style turboheader for A20 is born!!!

  1. #51
    I find long IC's work quite well... I"ve been running a 30x9x2.5 for a while, in the fall I can get he frost goin on the cold side. I come arcoss the cores often @ 30"x5-6" x2"



  2. #52

    Robs89LXi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AccordEpicenter
    not nessescerily, my fmic fits with the stock hood latch unmodified.
    You got any pics of it mounted?
    "Feed their greed with your need for speed"

  3. #53
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    would it be possible to put 2 civic radiators one in front of the other, and just run the coolant through both, the 2nd one wouldn't provide full cooling, but its better than nothing. not sure of the space, just hypothesizing from work.

  4. #54
    Quote Originally Posted by Ludi Mali
    would it be possible to put 2 civic radiators one in front of the other, and just run the coolant through both, the 2nd one wouldn't provide full cooling, but its better than nothing. not sure of the space, just hypothesizing from work.
    I"ve run the thicker stock Del Sol rad from the b16 engine on a prelude and it cools things out fine.

  5. #55

    Robs89LXi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by silly sohc
    I"ve run the thicker stock Del Sol rad from the b16 engine on a prelude and it cools things out fine.
    Yeah, but was that on a turbocharged engine, and was that in a real hot part of the world?
    "Feed their greed with your need for speed"

  6. #56
    Oh for sure we don't get the temps southern states do in Canada. but yes I have used the small rad in turbo setups... civic's w/ b16 turbo's round here its common, but the prelude was a once only w/ turbo. seems to work fine so far.

  7. #57

    Robs89LXi's Avatar
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    What do you think about what I said earlier about a top mount manifold? You know, the type that has the runners drop down from the head flange, then curve back up to the turbo flange and the turbo then sits on top of that? Could that be done tight enough to keep the radiator and fans?
    "Feed their greed with your need for speed"

  8. #58
    The only problem I can think of would be the dp placement... If I remember correctly you've got around 8.5" to play with between the full rad and the head flange. All the curls of the runners may get in the way underneath. The audi/VW frankenstein swap I"m doing now has the same issue but with the firewall. Of course if you use a shorty mani it may not be such an issue.

  9. #59

    Robs89LXi's Avatar
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    Okay, I'm all but out of ideas here. I HAVE to keep the radiator, fans and A/C, so maybe I need to go back to my original plan of using a sidewinder style. A couple of people have said this causes too much heat (though I don't see how it would be any more than your rams-horn type), and there is a problem with bracing. I'm sure I could figure out a way to brace it though, so what are your thoughts on this type? Here is an example of what I'm talking about.
    http://www.imagestation.com/card/com...art_=908199505
    Here is another angle:
    http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...3/f89fc873.jpg
    Here is a good angle to show radiator clearance (shown w/ Civic rad.):
    http://keruh.com/3gz/accordtheory5.jpg
    Last edited by Robs89LXi; 08-27-2004 at 12:32 AM.
    "Feed their greed with your need for speed"

  10. #60
    Quote Originally Posted by Robs89LXi
    Okay, I'm all but out of ideas here. I HAVE to keep the radiator, fans and A/C, so maybe I need to go back to my original plan of using a sidewinder style. A couple of people have said this causes too much heat (though I don't see how it would be any more than your rams-horn type), and there is a problem with bracing. I'm sure I could figure out a way to brace it though, so what are your thoughts on this type? Here is an example of what I'm talking about.
    http://www.imagestation.com/card/com...art_=908199505
    Here is another angle:
    http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...3/f89fc873.jpg
    Here is a good angle to show radiator clearance (shown w/ Civic rad.):
    http://keruh.com/3gz/accordtheory5.jpg

    Yeah certainly a heat producer but you've got the right idea. I would probably brace turbo and the mani to the tranny/block.... and get an engine dampener too. the more you make the exaust sytem unified w/ the engine the better... less stress and twisting involved. Tag the down pipe to the back of the block too. Theres a lot of leverage back there for the down pipe to work against the turbo when the engine is twisting.

  11. #61

    Robs89LXi's Avatar
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    Okay, thanks for the info. Now, could you build something like that out of say 304 stainless, and about how much would it cost? Don't worry, not putting in an order here (not yet anyway), but just interested to know if it could be done, and for how much.
    "Feed their greed with your need for speed"

  12. #62
    well I did some thinking and I have come to the estimate of about $12-1300 CDN good 304 is pricey. And it's certainly something I wouldn't rush.

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