Check this guy out. He has done the conversion harnes for OUR CAR before. If I wasn't dragging my feet on my car so much, I'd already have had him make one for me. Have emailed him several times, and Jason sounds like a real nice guy.
http://www.jkobd.com/0to1.htm
"Feed their greed with your need for speed"
I don't know about anyone else but Getting legs re-welded on the dizzy or replacing guts is a lot of hassle. What I am doing right now is using the 4g dizzy, cutting off one of the legs on the distributor to clear the water pipe, theres no other way, then making up new mounting points on the head for the 4g distributor.
Getting the obd-0 to obd-1 harness made at boomslang and running a p06 chipped for uberdata with the data cable. Its currently running an ls map setup to run 9lbs. Too bad im not that far along yet! With my car down and out for the last 3 months and getting another car going etc has cost me all my mod money so I havent made much progress.
I really can't forsee many problems this way and think it would be easier in the future to be replacing the distributor should it fail. My main concern would be the movement to set the timing properly but then theres always a way.
I'm taking all of my obd-1 goodies to get put together first week in july. The Head is going to be port and polished 3 angle valve grind etc, with the colt cams mild tri-flow cam and my cam gear, not to mention the b16 manifold. I could go on with the pile of parts I have here.
- Drive it like a Rental!
My 89 Ex-i on Car Domain
Jason made my ECU sub harness for my LS/vtec swap.Originally Posted by NXRacer
How are you making new mounting points on the head? Got any pics?
"Feed their greed with your need for speed"
We are going to be welding a new piece of metal onto the head and drilling out a hole in the proper place, nut and bolt, using a huge washer to get the extra movement if its needed to set the timing. Similar to how openloop first did the conversion but with something a bit more solid. I'll be sure to get pics when its finished.
- Drive it like a Rental!
My 89 Ex-i on Car Domain
Also we tried fitting several different distributors to the head. If I remember right the obd-1 d series dizzy was pretty similar to the f22 dizzy I am going to use. The obd-2 d series dosen't match up well neither does an ls dizzy. Really the best bet is the f22.
- Drive it like a Rental!
My 89 Ex-i on Car Domain
which dizzy are you guys using as I have both 4th gen ones the one with the external coil is 180 degrees off compaired to the internal one, also i've ground the crap out of the dizzy all 3 legs to clear the thermostat housing. now I just have to find someone to weld the legs back on and fill the hole made by the 12mm nut on the thermostat housing durring the test fit. ( have to pull all the guts out of dizzy). then it's to the easy stuff ...wireing.
I've been looking into this ecu conversion thing. I've been to this website www.xenocron.com. The guys in new jersey and sells obd1 ecus, already chipped and socketed with a usb adaptor for datalogging. He'll sell it in a kit with four reburnable chips. the board in the ecu has a ZIF socket so you can change chips with out having to resodder and all that shit. He sells also an emulator which can interface between a laptop using Chrome, Uberdata, hondata ect. From what I hear, you can get free versions of this software.
I asked him about this type of application via e-mail. He said, well I'll just paste his resopnse here....(hope he won't mind me quoting him)
"As long as the ECU and the dizzy match up, you can run it on a Honda motor. So if the ECU is OBD1, the distributor needs to be an OBD1 (24 reluctor tooth) distributor. I am 99% sure the standard 0bd0-1 conversion harness will work just fine, but the car needs to be MPFI spec (converted already up from DPFI if your car was that originally)."
Now I'm not really sure what the difference between MPFI(multi-portfuel-injection) dpfi(direct-port-fuel-injection) but this difference could be why the harness isn't plug n play.
Now running a20a's is not this guys specialty. I think he does mostly obd0 turbo applications. But there is a lot of good info and links there.
I did the math and with his conversion kit, emulator, a distributor, and an Innovate motorsports wide band o2 meter (for tuning) you could have a tunable ecu for 700-800 bucks. Plus the fab work to fit the dist. and of course the lap top to run the reprogramming software. I here that CHROME is a little more user friendly than UBERDATA. I've seen some sample screens of this software and it looks pretty complete. If you want to have a look for yourself check out www.xenocron.com.
I'm seriously thinking about using his system mostly because I want to start learning how to tune. And you can tune for your present mods and If you add something, plug up your laptop and retune in real time while the car is running! Sounds pretty F?:#&$^ exciting to me!
yeah i have made a few post saying pretty much exactly what you just posted there... hopefully you follow through with your plan, it would be nice to have a few poeople trying to accomplish this, to help each other out. maybe if we get like 5 guys together we can get a small discount on harnesses.
and dpfi is dual point on those old d15's (i think), the "conversion" they speak up is upgrading to mpfi with 4 fuel injectors.
crome is a friendly editor, but you have to pay for the full version, i dont know what extra functionality that gets you though...
i think the biggest problem i will face is making the adjustments to fit the adaptor to our harness. I here it almost fits bit a few things need to be changed. I wish I knew exactly what wires needed to be switched but I haven't found any concrete info on this. There was a post earlier in this thread that I saved and tried to look at but there's a lot of things I don't understand and on this chart comparing pinouts between our obd0 and an acura obd1 had a lot of question marks and blanks. This problem I fear will be the most frustrating and time consuming part of the whole project.
Any way I have a time frame in mind for when I want to complete this and I'm aiming at January. I have to buy a new motor and and a laptop and all the tuning parts as well as a few boltons wile I have the motor out. Before I take my old motor out, I'd like to also the dizzy fabbed. that way I have a little less downtime while waiting for the work to be done.
I contacted another supplier of conversion harnesses named Kenji. I asked him how compatible his system was with our cars and he gave me a very vague answer that wasn't even relevant to my question. Don't think I'll be doin business with that guy. It seems he just wants the money. Chris at xenocron really seemed to be informed and down to lend his knowledge.
Anyway I plan on doing alot of reading to try and get a headstart on the wiring problem. Wish me Luck. I'll keep posting for anyone who wants to read. And if anybody can help me out with the harness thing I'd appreciate it. I'm gonna do this with or without help.
An adapter harness will make it very nice esp. to hook up a wideband or even do a VTEC swap. These pins need to be swapped in order to use a civic OBD-1 harness; they are all OBD-0 pin location on our original harness
Here’s a pic………..
B2-A6 Evap, C1-B10 CYP-P, C2-B12 CYP-M, A17-B1 hazard, add shielded wire to C2 CYK-P, add or use old O2 wire for adding the ICM signal to B17, add shielded wire to C1 CYK-M, lastly B18-B16 speed sensor (also needs a 6K resistor as previously noted which I have not confirmed the correct location on our cars)
It helps to have the engine harness out that way you can easily and cleanly add the shielded wires from the dizzy to the ECU. When adding the shielded you want to ground it with the other shield wires close to the dizzy plug. The ICM (igniter control module) black/yellow needs to be grounded to the coil which is where the aftermarket coil comes in handy and hooks up to coil negative terminal. The other ICM yellow/green goes to the ECU which I used the old O2 wire which is solid white.
As for a good tuning platform I'd go with Crome, it has a lot more options then all the other DIY programs. http://forum.pgmfi.org/viewtopic.php?t=6507
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
yeah i havent seen any of the other programs, but crome pro seems like the way to go for someone who is new to tuning..
I thank you for post by the way and your instructions will help me out so much.
I'm a little confused by the following sentence...
"add shielded wire to C2 CYK-P, add or use old O2 wire for adding the ICM signal to B17, add shielded wire to C2 CYK-M"
I think by "CYK-P" you meant CKP-P. And by "CYK-M" you meant CKP-M.
Secondly, how to I add two signals to one pin (C2)? Maybe one sheilded wire goes to C1?
Also I found out where the VSS goes. IT's b18. The 6k resistor just needs to be added in line? ANother thing about the speed sensor. I think obd0 has a sensor too but runs off the gauge which is driven manually. If this is true do I even have to add a b18-b16 VSS, or could I just use this signal?
it s suppose to be c1 to CYK-P, C2 was a typo on that part. AS far as I know the CYK-M and CYK-P, etc are correct abrevation but they don't madder the pin locations are correct.
It does madder where the 6k resistor is, if you read the how to on PGM-fi it says that. It needs to go on the back of the gauge cluster but they only show where it goes on a Civic..................
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
ok guys heres a new issue. I was looking at the link carotman found about adding a 6kohm resistor (http://www.classictiger.com/HondaCRX...g_analysis.htm )and found out the vss signal on my 87 efi hatch goes through an amplifier on the back of the gauge cluster so the link with the crx cluster isnt just the same.
small plastic box on the right side.
the small yellow plug that goes into it has three wires. one black one black/yellow and the last yellow. The yellow is out to the ecu and the other two are power and ground.
now on the left side of the plastic amplifier box are three wires. one is black/white which is a ground and the other two look pink and both put out small amounts of voltage. one was about 1.1 and the other was .6 I think. and all three go into the cluster to the speedo.
question is what type of voltage does this vss amp sent to the ecu and how to either bypass it or modify the signal?
I read that a little closer and all they did was hook up the resistor to the 12V power from the fuel gauge to the VSS signal. The 12V is very easy to find, there is 2 screws on the back of the cluster both with a + right next to them.
The question is where to tap in the 6K to the VSS cause the realy makes it difficult. The VSS signal to the ECU is C1(yellow wire on harness), It is the yellow plug on the back of the realy (circled in red, top pin). Or to tap it in before the realy which has 3 wired going to it from the speed sensor, black/white and 2 pink wires. If I could find a 6K resistor I'd try it out today but the local radio shack doesn't carry them
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
OK guys good news on the vss.
I used the example carotman posted with the resistor. You wire it up the same way in the diagram but you have to use the speed pulser grounding signal on the gauge cluster plug a2. (this wire goes to the cruise control unit) then you cut the vss signal wire on gauge cluster harness c1 and connect that to the resitor.
I drove around for half an hour in stop and go traffic and had it up to 60 and no cel light.
The car is parked again for a week or two but I'llpost any more results if thee cel comes back with code 17/vss.
can you disable the vss under crome/uberdata?
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
I found this site that I think explains the VSS fix too:
http://www.classictiger.com/HondaCRX...g_analysis.htm
thats the same link carot posted in an earlier post.
thats what I used on my car except the lxi has some sort of amplifier between the speedeo and ecu. I didint use that at all and used the speed pulser output from the gauge cluser with the resistor to the vss of the ecu.
I double checked the speed pulser output to that of an obd1 speed sensor out of a 91 accord and are pretty much the same. Two on/off pulses per tire revolution. Thye only diff is the speed pulser is a ground/open circuit and the obd1 vss is a 12v/open.
Last edited by guaynabo89; 12-26-2005 at 08:38 AM.
Whoops, I guess I should have read through this thread a bit more before posting. I thought it looked familiar...
Thanks to refering me to this thread from the "Project, 4g Distributor / Ecu ( Obd-1 )" thread. It has alot of useful information.
I wonder if that 6k resistor will make the cruise control ecu freak out?!?
I'm thinking of putting that resistor somewhere in my OBD-1 conversion harness. It would make things easier. Just connect a resistor between the 12V pin and the VSS pin on the harness and voila!.
It's just that I want to keep the Cruise control functionnal in my car.
Maybe I could just install a diode near the cruise ECU so it will never see 12V but it will see ground.
anyone has an idea?
http://pages.videotron.com/omus
3geez member since July 12 2000
I need these parts!
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742
yea I've got an idea, cruise control SUCK!!...because mine doesnt have it lol
But I think you might be right with the diode on the cruise control!
Yup, I'll have to get that wiring diagram sorted out to source the best place to put that diode. I don't want to hack the wiring too much and make it possible to return back to stock if necessary.
BTW, do you have your B20A running on an OBD1 ecu yet?
http://pages.videotron.com/omus
3geez member since July 12 2000
I need these parts!
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742
I too was worried about this and installed a zerner diode( 2 bucks at radio shack) between the 6k resistor and cruise ecu.
I mounted both the 6k resistor and diode on the gauge cluster wiring harness.
I think I had pictures somewhere in this thread or another one about what I did.
No CEL's till this day.
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