other ECM options

[thegreatdane]

Yup, I'll have to get that wiring diagram sorted out to source the best place to put that diode. I don't want to hack the wiring too much and make it possible to return back to stock if necessary.

BTW, do you have your B20A running on an OBD1 ecu yet?

Yes I'm running a chipped P06 (converted to a P28 though just for the fun of it) obd1 ecu. And I have an Ostrich rom emulator so that I can real time tune with Crome.

[carotman]

Do you mind to post the .BIN you're using here? I want to have a base ROM for my Dyno tune. If not I will understand but it sure would help alot of the guys with B20As!

And the funny thing is that I''ll be running a P06 that has been converted to P28 too. I'll be probably using it for my Civic and use a regular P06 in the Accord but the conversion process was fun.

[thegreatdane]

Do you mind to post the .BIN you're using here? I want to have a base ROM for my Dyno tune. If not I will understand but it sure would help alot of the guys with B20As!

And the funny thing is that I''ll be running a P06 that has been converted to P28 too. I'll be probably using it for my Civic and use a regular P06 in the Accord but the conversion process was fun.

Cool I cheated though and had someone else convert my P06 since I dont have any desoldering tool if that's what it's called

I could post a bin but I beleive it sucks for performance, I havent been able to tune the igntion properly yet. When I was on the dyno to dial it in, it just all went to hell because the computer that controlled the dyno was garbage. One of the bin's has nice driveability though, the other is a little rough but with more fuel.

[ACCLUDE91]

If we can figure out how to get the code out of the A20 ECU (or b20 for that matter) and convert to non-vacuum advance dizzy, fine engine control is easy.

Bingo! I'm going to be using a B20 basemap on a P06 and a F22 dizzy & MAP.

I hope that make sense to you guys seriously considering doing this. If not, just ask and I'll try to explain anything I can.

[EricW]

Where did you guys get the 6K resistor? The only place i have found is digikey and one auction on ebay.

[thegreatdane]

I made my own resistor, ripped apart some electronics and found 6 1k resistors. voila lol.

[guaynabo89]

Where did you guys get the 6K resistor? The only place i have found is digikey and one auction on ebay.

I bought a pack from them. They come like in a 5 pack. I dont know where the spare ones are though or else d just mail you one

[EricW]

Well i just bought the resistor and diode from digikey I bought four extra of each so if anyone needs them I will probably have them in a week.

[EricW]

I have found something interesting. Earlier today when i was looking at this and i thought that i had to change the diode box(from when i was carbed) to the speed sensor amplifier(from the efi cluster) but know I realized I am wrong after going over it again. The diode box from my carbed gauge cluster already connected A1 to C2 on the gauge cluster. So all I really had to do was add the 6k resistor to the wire from the speed pulsar to diode box and change the diode to a zener diode and i would have been finished.

Now I have to go back and change the speedometer and remove the speed sensor amplifier and replace it with the diode box. I went through all that trouble of disassembling the odometer and changing the mileage on it to not even need it. I didn't even have any problems with removing the needle and it not working correctly after i put it back on, I took a test drive to make sure. I did note a few differences in the speedometers from the fuel injected cluster to the carbed cluster mainly the circuit board on the side of the efi speedo that had a connector to the speed sensor amplifier.

Another good note is that the speed sensor amplifier circuit board did look exactly the same as the diode box. The difference was that the diode box only has a diode in the D3 slot on the circuit board with nothing else on the board except the yellow connector and the wire that connects to one side of the diode. The speed sensor amplifier had everything but the diode in D3. I will try to get some pics in the next few days to better explain what i just said.


Cliffs notes: Use the diode box from a carbed gauge cluster and replace the diode with a zener diode add a 6k resistor to the wire that comes out of it and connects to the speed pulsar.

[carotman]

Maybe I missed something in the thread (it's too long anyway) but do you know the reason why some have an amplfier and some a diode box? I guess it's for cruise control function?!?

[guaynabo89]

yeah I didnt use anything from the 87 lxi's speed sensor.

I just used the speed pulser output off the cluster, teed in the 6k resistor with power and sent that out to the ecu, and I put a zerner diode between the cruise contorl unit and the t of the diode to keep the ground pulses flowing correctly.

I verified that the pulses were the correc ones by comparing them to the speed sensor pulses on my 91 accord.

When I finally make it to the dyno the aem tuning software lets you see what mph the ecu is seeing and I will compare that to the cable driven speedo in the dash si I know how well this mod works and if its as accurate as it should be.

[thegreatdane]

It is very accurate according to my crome datalogging, ~1mph difference between dashboard and datalogging.

Are you running an AEM EMS now guaynabo?

[EricW]

Maybe I missed something in the threas (it's oo long anyway) but do you knoe the reason why some have an amplfier and some a diode box? I guess it's for cruise control function?!?

According to the 87 accord manual the carbed accords have diode boxes and the efi have the amplifier. There where some differences in the speedometer also. I will try to get some pics tomorrow after i get off work.

[guaynabo89]

Are you running an AEM EMS now guaynabo?

Its in there but the base map thats in the aem software for the teg/civics accord/preludeswont keep the car running. It will idle for like 5 seconds and die. i tried looking around to figure out why exactly it wont hold an idle but couldnt find exactly what to try to keep it runnig. I'll just take it with the stock p75 I got to the dyno and swap the aem when I get theere. Im hoping the tuning will come soon. i just have to give the car a tune up and its off to the dyno.

[EricW]

Ok here are the pics of the speed sensor amplifier and the diode box.

Both


Speed sensor amplifier




Diode box


The back of both clusters


In the pic the speedometer for the speed sensor amplifier is in the cluster that is labeled "diode box" since it Is the cluster that originally had the diode box.

There is also another diode(labeled in pic with) that i didn't notice until later that is in line with there speedometer on the A2 circuit.

I have now switched back to the diode box, but when i had the speed sensor amplifier installed the cruise control did maintain the selected speed better than the diode box. So it has me thinking about switching back to the speedometer with the speed sensor amplifier.

[guaynabo89]

so are you running your engine obd1 yet?

[EricW]

so are you running your engine obd1 yet?

Hopefully tomorrow will be the day. I just have to run the wires for the distributor and O2 sensor, install the diode and resistor. The only problem I see at the moment is I will have to do something to reroute the upper radiator hose and either buy a 4 wire O2 or run open loop until i get one.

[thegreatdane]

Its in there but the base map thats in the aem software for the teg/civics accord/preludeswont keep the car running. It will idle for like 5 seconds and die. i tried looking around to figure out why exactly it wont hold an idle but couldnt find exactly what to try to keep it runnig. I'll just take it with the stock p75 I got to the dyno and swap the aem when I get theere. Im hoping the tuning will come soon. i just have to give the car a tune up and its off to the dyno.

Nice, so you got the 1040? Can you use the base maps for the 1081U (88-89 prelude)?

[guaynabo89]

yea i have the 1040. it only has two maps in the files for na cars. one is a civic/teg which a d16 was used for this base map an the accord/prelude which an h22 was used for that one.

[EricW]

Any one know what the green wire on the f22 distributor should be hooked to?

I've got everthing in but i can't get it to crank. I have no spark.

[guaynabo89]

the two wire plug has the black/yellow which is power and the blue which is the coil negative/tach

The 8 plug one has 6 wires for the three sensors and then it has one that goes to the ecu (ICM) and the other is the grounding for the shielded wire of the sensors.

Hope that helps.

If not try rotating your distributor around. maybe your timing is slightly off.

[EricW]

I've tried moving the distributor but if it was sparking at all the gas already in the cylinder would ignite. I put a timing light on the #1 wire and it didn't flash. Do you think the MSD ignition would have any thing to do with it.

[EricW]

What did you do with the radio noise condenser?

[guaynabo89]

I've tried moving the distributor but if it was sparking at all the gas already in the cylinder would ignite.

Not if the spark plugs were wet from cranking extensively.

I put a timing light on the #1 wire and it didn't flash. Do you think the MSD ignition would have any thing to do with it.

Maybe

Try putting the lead on the other plug wires to see if it lights. Check your gun to make sure its in perfect wrking order

[EricW]

Tried two different timing lights neither flashed. I'm quiting for the night and will try again tomorrow or wednesday when i have more time. I will start by unhooking the MSD and going back to the stock ignition. I was throwing code 20(ELD) and 41( Primary oxygen sensor heater).