well, we already have a cable speedo.....
The only way to change to a electronic sensor is to mount another speedo in the gauge cluster
well, we already have a cable speedo.....
The only way to change to a electronic sensor is to mount another speedo in the gauge cluster
http://pages.videotron.com/omus
3geez member since July 12 2000
I need these parts!
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742
I Know, but I have no cable or speedo... but I neeed the sensor to run an autometer speedo or the like.
do I need to get the weel hub or what not from a car that does have a sensor?
- llia
has anybody looked into mounting another speedo in the gauge cluster? like maybe from a 4g?
and Robs89LXi, i'm just always up late. i usually go to bed around 2 or 3 am(i'm an hour behind you). although i might start working a graveyard shift soon...
Greg
1989 LX-i 2dr 5spd (R.I.P.)
2008 CBR 600RR -- 1995 Toyota Supra NA -- 2013 Nissan Frontier Pro-4x
The speed sensor from a 90-91 Prelude might work. It mounts on the tranny and would replace the cable drive unit so you would need to use a compatible electonic speedo. I am still trying to find one at a U-Pull-It junk yard since the regular junk yards around here want $75 for it.
Gregg
Just a quick teaser update, I got my car running tonight on a P75 ECU. Keep in mind, this is with a B20A, so I did not have to solve the distributor problem. I am not totally done with the wiring yet, I still need to wire up the 4 wire O2 sensor heater and the VSS, plus, I think the P75 I have is from an automatic, so I need to do some mods to avoid a CEL.
I built the conversion harness myself and it fired right up the first time. I am getting a CEL, but that's certainly caused by one of the unfinished things I mentioned above. Tomorrow I'll spend some time getting the wiring finished.
The idle was fluctuating and my A/F guage was showing lean, so I still have work to do, but a quick drive seemed to indicate a substantial improvement from about 4000rpm up. Enough to make me go wow! How's that for a teaser Carotman? Get yours installed!
Anyway, once it's all done, I'll put together a chart showing how I wired the conversion harness. It's about 95% the same as the other conversions, but I found a few minor differences.
Gregg
The speed sensor should easily be solved by the resistance wiring I showed earlier in the thread.
For the O2 heater, you can disable it in the ECU program and use a single wire sensor if you want.
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3geez member since July 12 2000
I need these parts!
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742
Good work Gregg. I'm picking up a DA teg donor car for my B swap in a week or two. Then all the fun starts. Glad to see the great progress.
87 prelude si
87 non-turbo supra
Speedometer: You use the bottom half from a A20 tranny, and the tops half with the electronic sender to make this part work. You do have to trim a bit here and there, but this should fit together.
Now, on the other hand, if you want to get VSS happy, I'm not sure how it was done, but Sean used the cruise control to make the VSS work on his ECU setups. Just thought I would share that.
Last edited by MoonScryer; 10-12-2004 at 08:14 AM.
Again, I prefer to ass a single wire and resistor instead of swapping gauge clusters and VSS.
It's all explained here
http://www.classictiger.com/HondaCRX...g_analysis.htm
http://pages.videotron.com/omus
3geez member since July 12 2000
I need these parts!
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742
Okay, I still am very confused with this thing so please clarify for me.
What I need to buy to make this work:
Conversion harness - $100
TEC-TD52U(92-93 Accord:F22A6 - external coil) - $??
P75 ECU - $??
Is that all I need? How does the conversion harness work? Do I just plug it into my wiring harness in one end, and the P75 in the other? I can handle mounting the distributor on my own, won't be very difficult for me.
Can I use the coil from my A20 distributor on the 4G distributor?
I have more questions but I'm overwhelmed right now so when they come to me later I'll post them.
I HATE WIRING!
-Harvey
With the Dizzy, it depends on if you get it brand new or from a junkyard. Same story with the ECU.Originally Posted by A20A3
The wiring harness is still an issue thats being worked out. Nobody is sure whether or not the conversion harness will plug and play or not. Some people say yes, others say no, but its close.
You can use the coil from the a20 dizzy, but i suggest you upgrade. Not necessary, but a good idea.
remember, nobody but mike from openloop has done this conversion yet so there are still kinks to be worked out. At least one conversion should be completed soon here so when its done this thread will DEFFINATELY be updated with new info.
Nothin' 2 Old Racing
I've been to a few junkyards around here, and no Cb7's.
However getting one shouldn't be a problem. I have resources.
As for the ECU I'll figure something out.
I think I'll just buy the conversion harness, and just re-pin what I have to to make it work with out throwing codes.
The conversion harness does just plug in, it's just that some things have to be re-pined?
Is there any way to safely bypass the 4 O2 sensors without throwing a code?
Otherwise how do I get that to work right?
-Harvey
with uberdata or hondata you can program exactly what you'll be running as far as O2 sensors. You can even run a wideband O2 if you feel like it.
As far as the conversion harness, worste case scenario is that you'll have to splice the accord plug to the harness which shouldnt be too hard.
The ECU you should be able to pickup easily. They're out of the 92-93 civic EX i believe.
Nothin' 2 Old Racing
I thought the P06 was from the Civic, and the P75 was from the Integra LS(non-vtec)?
-Harvey
yeah you're right.
from hondata site:
P75 OBDI US 95 Integra LS/GS
P06 OBDI US 92-95 Civic DX
Nothin' 2 Old Racing
Okay cool.
It would be awesome if Justanothermike posted some stuff up about this...
-Harvey
I guess Cartmon was going to post some stuff........?
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
well not getting much help with the swap as of pinouts so here is what I got so far. The ones with question marks I'm not sure if they need to be used, wires added etc, everything else I'm pretty sure on........... be nice if it stayed in Excel formant, well first is OBD-1 pins then name, wire color, 86-87 pins, and last 88-89 pins.
obd-1 OBD-0
Connector "A" 86-87 88-89
Pin Unit Wire Color
A1 Injector #1 BRN INJ1 A1 A1
A2 Injector #4 YEL INJ4 A7 A7
A3 Injector #2 RED INJ2 A3 A3
A4 VTEC solenoid GRN/YEL VTS
A5 Injector #3 BLU INJ3 A5 A5
A6 O2 sensor (heating element) ORN/BLK PO2SHTC ? ?
A7 fuel pump GRN/BLU FLR1 A12 A12
A8 (empty)
A9 IAC valve BLK/BLU IACV A11 A11
A10 (empty)
A11 (empty)
A12 engine coolant temp switch GRN FANC ? ?
A13 MIL (check engine light) GRN/ORN MIL B6 B6
A14 (empty)
A15 (a/c compressor clutch) BLK/RED ACC
A16 alternator WHT/GRN ALT C ? ?
A17 IAB Solenoid PNK/BLU IAB ? A14
A18 (empty)
A19 (a/t trans only) YEL (AUTO ONLY)
A20 EVAP purge control solenoid RED PCS ? B2
A21 ICM YEL/GRN ICM ? ?
A22 (empty)
A23 ground BLK PG1 A2 A2
A24 ground BLK PG2 A4 A4
A25 to main relay and to gound for o YEL/BLK IGP2 A13 A13
A26 gound BRN/BLK LG1 A18 A18
Connector "B"
Pin Unit Wire Color
B1 to pin A25 YEL/BLK IGP2 A15 A15
B2 ground to shields for CYP & TDC BRN/BLK LG2 A16 A16
B3 (a/t trans only)
B4 (a/t trans only)
B5 a/c switch BLU/RED ACS B8 B8
B6 (empty)
B7 (a/t trans only)park/neutral B7 B7
B8 PSP switch GRN PSPSW B9 B9
B9 starter signal BLU/WHT STARTER SIGNAL B13 B13
B10 vehicle speed sensor ORN VSS B18 B18
B11 CYP -P ORN CYP P C1 C1
B12 CYP -M WHT CYP M C2 C2
B13 TDC -P ORN/BLU TDC P C3 C3
B14 TDC -M WHT/BLU TDC M C4 C4
B15 CKP -P BLU/GRN CKP P ADD ADD
B16 CKP -M BLU/YEL CKP M ADD ADD
Connector "D"
Pin Unit Wire Color
D1 Back Up Power WHT/BLU VBU A17 A17
D2 brake switch GRN/WHT BKSW ? ?
D3 Knock Sensor KS ? ?
D4 service check connector BRN/WHT SCS ? ?
D5 (empty)
D6 VTEC pressure switch BLU/BLK VTM ? ?
D7 (data link connector) LT BLU TXD/RXD ? ?
D8 (empty)
D9 alternator WHT/RED ALT F B14 B14
D10 electric load detector GRN/RED ELD ? ?
D11 TPS Signal RED/BLK TPS C7 C7
D12 EGR YEL/GRN EGR A10 A10
D13 ECT sensor RED/WHT ECT C6 C6
D14 O2 sensor WHT/RED PHO2S C16 C16
D15 IAT sensor RED/YEL IAT C5 C5
D16 VREF WHT/BLK VREF ? ?
D17 Map Signal WHT/YEL MAP C11 C11
D18 (a/t trans only) control module
D19 MAP 5V YEL/WHT VCC1 C15 C15
D20 TPS 5V YEL/BLU VCC2 C13 C13
D21 MAP GND GRN/WHT SG1 C14 C14
D22 TPS GND GRN/BLU SG2 C12 C12
Last edited by Justin86; 12-21-2004 at 10:21 PM.
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
awsome work justin. THe only thing i can criticize about is that, it would be helpful if its in a table form. U know like a spread sheet with a title of the column and what not. put in on an excel and get a screen capture and it would be perfect. but again, awsome work tho.
ps: did'nt carotman already do a writeup like this???
Well, I did check the 89 pinout when I swapped to the PK2 ECU on my car. I do know that it's 100% accurate. Justin sent me the corrections for the 86-87 ECUs so I can correct the post I did in the FAQ section.
I will do the correction tomorrow. It's not an excel table but a basic HTML table with some basic colors.
The FAQ can be found here https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=11852
The ECU pin swapping is not a big concern. The major concern IMO is the distributor itself. I was going to fit a F22A distributor on my olde A20A1 thin winter but it snowed way too much here and the engine is packed undet a protective tarpaulin in my trailer... I will need some help from my friends to take it out of there and put it in the garage.
Once we solved the distributor problem, the ECU pins should be easy. Of course, having an accurate pinout reference helps alot.
Thanks Justin for posting that. I replied to your PM, I'm not sure if you acutally got it.
Edit:
I double checked and it seems that Honda would have inverted the CYL and TDC sensor pinout between 86-87 and 88-89. This seems quite odd. Could someone check what are the wire colors on the ECU for those pins? (C1, C2, C3 and C4) The sensors had the same color code from 86 to 89. I just don't want to get stuff mixed up here.
http://pages.videotron.com/omus
3geez member since July 12 2000
I need these parts!
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cylp - c1 orangeOriginally Posted by carotman
cylm - c2 white
tdcp - c3 orange/blue
tdcm - c4 white/blue
This is for the 87 lxi.
I bought a obd0 - obd1 conversion harness and did have to switch the wiring around because these two sensors were switched on the obd0 accord side.
I plan on running the wires in the next week or two for the o2 and the distributor and such.
I already had the dist modded to fit the a20 head so all I need is time to finish this project.
I'm using a 94-95 ls ecu. I like that cause it simplifies al the vacuum connections and doesnt use a egr valve on the manual transmission models.
In a couple of weeks I'll update to the problems I ran into etc.
well I wrote it out in excel, but when I pasted it went back to the regular word format. I could email you the excel file if you could post it in a colum format.........
Carotman the cyl and TDC I sent you are the same as in 88-89, i looked at my car and in the 86 honda repair manual.
So we have the dizzy wiring but on the enternal coil dizzy there is one extra one that needs to be figured out. There is the wire harness but I'm sure that there needs to be pins swaped and pins added. So I'm trying to figure that out before I buy the $100 harness......
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
The pins for the external and internal coil dizzy are the same. The difference is that the A20A doesn't use an igniter that is controlled by the ECU directly (vacuum controlled)
http://pages.videotron.com/omus
3geez member since July 12 2000
I need these parts!
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742
yea I know ECU wise they are the same, but the external coil dizzy have one more wire then the internal and I don't know where it goes?
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
Thanks to Justin for sending me the file and here is the Excel spreadsheet view of what he posted earlier. Its much easier to understand
well email away at [email protected] I will post it in column format, Its gonna be just a regular picture, but easy enough to readOriginally Posted by Justin86
Last edited by smufguy; 12-23-2004 at 10:51 AM.
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