How the hell??

**KoNEY** · 04-04-2004, 01:17 PM

ok, so i was driving yesterday, and i pulled out of a parking lot, and shifted into 2nd kinda agressively, and i heard a loud thud, and then my car started "limping" and sounded like a small block chevy with uncapped headers. the limp was more like a wobble up and down, like the whole car was violently bouncing up and down, so i come directly home, and damn, ive got a broken flex pipe, two broken motor mounts, and i completely broke the inner cv joint on the driver's side axle, along with a warped passenger side axle, anyone know how in the flying hell all of this could have happened due to one shift??

**Elijah** · 04-04-2004, 01:24 PM

Wow thats crazy.I have know clue do you always bag?I do and I never have done that kinda damage.

**momo8517** · 04-04-2004, 03:23 PM

the motor mounts probably went first. one of my buddies did all three of them in his saturn on a bad shift (R -> 1st) He dumped the clutch like he was gonna burn out, and the car bounced a little, and kept rolling backwards. we open the hood, and he did one of his axles, the flex pipe, all the motor mounts, the transmission, and the master brake cylinder (presumably from the block bouncing around in the engine bay.) he didn't drive that car home.

what we figured, is that since the car had recently had a tranny job, whoever did the work didnt tighten down the engine mounts right, because they had to take two of them out to get the tranny out of the car.

Have you had any major projects done recently that have required anyone to f--- with your motor mounts? If so that would be the first place i'd check.

oh and sorry about your car, man...that's a tough break.

**KoNEY** · 04-04-2004, 07:15 PM

yeah, i just swapped in another a20, but the mounts were tight, and there was no noises coming from the axles at all, it just did it all at once.....also, anybody know what new axles cost for our cars, if not, ill just check tomorrow, thanks

**momo8517** · 04-05-2004, 04:09 AM

did you buy new engine mounts? (no those things are expensive and you used the same type of block, so theyre not needed -- dumb question) if not, how many miles are on the car? not like that matters the engine mounts should go forever. anyway, sorry again about your car, man. good luck putting it back together.

**Blkblurr** · 04-05-2004, 04:11 AM

I paid $65 each for mine but I have an auto

**od2681** · 04-05-2004, 06:51 AM

your mounts must hvae been broken or weak...and when you shifted hard into sec..the engine lifted and there you have it....thats what happend to me
mounts were broken..i didnt know...revved to 2500 and poped the clutch...boomm..car jumped in the air and i walk out and see a broken gear on the floor and fluid everwhere...and also axles broken..
this is gona set you far back

**KoNEY** · 04-05-2004, 12:47 PM

nope, i raped my old lude parts car for axles, and im currently repacking the cv bearings, and i really had three broken mounts, and they are already replaced, i also got the lude arms for my front suspension, the 3g is coming back to life!!

***Vinny*** · 08-26-2004, 08:41 PM

yes old thread but I didnt want to start a new one for nothing. The bastard hatch lives up to its name once again. Got on it a bit pulling ito traffic and BAM

I'll blame this one on the front mount I broke a week or so ago. Bad things bad things

**MrBen** · 08-26-2004, 08:43 PM

You are having the worst luck. The good thing is it can't get much worse.

i hope.

***Vinny*** · 08-26-2004, 08:46 PM

No warning at all, just snapped and locked up on me. Yeah my luck is pretty bad with this car but its come so far from.......... well I would say the day I brought it home, but I guess I should say the day I bought it and it shelled the tranny on the way home. Nothing else I'm at the point wher nothing suprises me and I can and do just shake my head and laugh everytime something new POPS up

**88accordhb** · 08-26-2004, 09:13 PM

that sux vinny.

**PortugalFocus** · 08-27-2004, 04:48 AM

Sorry Vinny.........

**Oyvind Ryeng** · 08-27-2004, 05:26 AM

Is it my imagination, or are the 88-> Accords worse cars than the 86-87?

***Vinny*** · 08-27-2004, 05:50 AM

its your imagination. None of the problems with my car have to do with manufacture quality problems. They all have to do with neglect and the likes from previous owners. I have an 88 sedan and have no where near the problems i have with the hatch, hence the nickname bastard hatch

**86LXItooFAST4me** · 08-27-2004, 06:28 AM

thats what tune ups and overhauls are for vinny

**accordlxi2.0** · 08-27-2004, 07:36 AM

oh man, that's must've been scary and embarrasing.
everytime something went wrong on the cougar i had the same expression you had. . . . .

**HondaBoy** · 08-27-2004, 10:16 AM

man, your A20 must be makin some power!

, interesting story. hmm, something went wrong?

keep us updated on what you find out cuz this is interesting.

***Vinny*** · 08-27-2004, 10:41 AM

All I can contribute it to is the broken front mount. Broke it a few weeks ago. I'll guess that the pressure on the joint combined with the lifting of the engine just snapped it. Oh well axles a lifetime replacement and a new front mount was 45 bucks. Axles already in, took 45 minutes or so and themount goes in tonight. All thats left after that is to level the car, fill the tranny with honda MTF, Break out 2 or 3 snapon torque wrenches, torque it all down, and install a cotter pin or 2

**86LXItooFAST4me** · 08-27-2004, 10:56 AM

hey i have a question on the ball joints, how far do you tighten the nut for the upper and lower ball joints? do you just line up the hole with the crown nut or do you take it all the way down?? im sure you just run it up to line up with the hole but the extra thread space makes me wonder.

***Vinny*** · 08-27-2004, 11:15 AM

The torque specs are 40ft lbs for the lower ball joint castle nut and 32ft lbs for the upper ball joint calste nut. Pretty sure thats what they are but you'd have to look em up to be sure.

Rule of thumb.....you never break the torque (loosen) on a castle nut to align the hole. Always tighten it until the holes line up, even if that means slightly exceeding the recommended torque.

**86LXItooFAST4me** · 08-27-2004, 11:19 AM

Originally Posted by Vinny

The torque specs are 40ft lbs for the lower ball joint castle nut and 32ft lbs for the upper ball joint calste nut. Pretty sure thats what they are but you'd have to look em up to be sure.

Rule of thumb.....you never break the torque (loosen) on a castle nut to align the hole. Always tighten it until the holes line up, even if that means slightly exceeding the recommended torque.

what if the hole is to far up to even torque the nut and line it up? like the castle nut is about 6 thread away from the hole.

***Vinny*** · 08-27-2004, 11:30 AM

not sure what you are saying Ryan but the way the holes are placed in the threads of balljoint that shouldnt happen. Basically when you place the upper balljoint into the control arm it should either seat right in or it will seat as you tighten it, exposing the hole. Same on the bottom when you place the balljoint into the lower control arm. Once its seated ther hole should be right there.

I've seen it the opposite way where the holes are exposed well before the nut is tight and by the time its roqued theres nothing of the castle nut holding the key, but never the other way around. If everythings seated correctly

**hondamanlxi** · 08-27-2004, 11:34 AM

your bigger/heavier wheels are helping matters either vinny

2 sure-fire ways to break an axle:
1) turn the wheel all way and dump the clutch
2) 17in wheels and dump the clutch on new hot asphalt

ive only had this accord 2 months and replaced both axles

**86LXItooFAST4me** · 08-27-2004, 11:37 AM

yeah its kinda hard to explane. basically after installing the joint and tighting the nut, the top of the castle nut was about this far: // {balljoint}-top of nut[--]hole \\ from the hole. so about a 1/4-1/2" from hole. something must be wrong cuz i thought that too. ill look into it when i do the swap i guess. im not going anywere right now anyway