I've heard stories about needed to buy the "box" kits for the trunk, but I've also heard that the box is not legal in some places. So, some people seem to think that using the stock tray and tie down is just fine, you just have to mount it in the trunk somehow.
So what's the scoop?
I want to relocate my battery ASAP, but I want to do it right the first time. I'm gonna need that CAI so I can whoop my friends grand am se, ya know?
www.stein-photo.com
born to XLR8
most tracks require the battery to be located in a secure box in the trunk. You'll most likely need to put in a cutoff switch on the back of the car as well. Most relocation kits come with all the parts necessary to do it or you can rig up your own.
Nothin' 2 Old Racing
What size battery are you running?
The track I went to busted me for having the battery in the passenger foot well.
I had a box and everything... I guess they are worried about the gasses?
I ended up relocation mine to the firewall.
- llia
From the NHRA's website LINK
I have a street car that I occasionally run at the strip. I've relocated the battery to the rear. What else do I need?
Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited. Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment. This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050.
But I drive on the street. I don't want a big cut off switch hanging on the back.
This solution takes a little work, but it solves the problem. Install the master cutoff inside the vehicle, positioned "sideways" so that the toggle moves forward and back. Drill a hole in the toggle handle, and attach a steel rod that will run out the back of the car, through a hole drilled completely through one tail light assembly. Have a spare tail light assembly on hand, so when you come home from the drags, you remove the rod and put the cherry tail light back in for street cruising. Next time you plan on going to the drag strip, swap lights and reinstall the rod. Since the drilled light is for the strip only, you can also have it marked "PUSH OFF" in big letters so the Tech Inspectors will think you're cool.
From the SCCA website LINK
17.9. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
The make, model number, and size of the battery may be changed but not its voltage. Relocation of the battery or batteries is permitted but not into the passenger compartment. If the battery is relocated and the original battery tray can be removed by simply unbolting it, the tray may be removed, or relocated with the battery. Holes may be drilled for mounting or passage of cables. Longer cables may be substituted to permit relocation. The number of battery or batteries may not be changed from stock. The area behind the rearmost seat is not considered to be within the passenger compartment.
Right... youll need a cutoff switch. You really should leave the battery in the stock location or slightly modified because its better to have weight on your drive wheels (much better traction) then in the rear of the car.
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
epicenter, you want a 50/50 distribution... you don't want all of the weight on the front... i'm assuming this isn't only a drag car... since it will see the street some, it's worth it to move the battery to the back for distribution
Get a NASA rulebook, or whatever sanctioning body rules for the type of racing you want to do.
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right. how big are these master cut-off switches? and do they really need to be hanging out the back of your car?
has anyone with a relocated battery been to the track and passed tech? what did you do?
www.stein-photo.com
born to XLR8
You should trool around Honda tech.
Im sure there are several members on that board that have delt with this situation.
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i put mine in the far corner of the trunk opposite the driver.
i did run at the track. they dont do actual inspection then. but im sure it would never pass in a real event.
i got the kit from summit, threw the battery box away. it was huge and ugly. but the kit was still cheaper just for the cables and stuff.
I now offer the Moroso Sealed Battery Kit, plus the rest of Moroso items to complement this Battery Relocation Project too.
Moroso NHRA/IHRA Battery Relocation
NHRA states that all batterys that are relocated to to truck have to be in a NHRA certified box and that the j-hooks have to be welded to the floor. for it to pass tech in. that's how it is when they have big guys come to tulsa.
hmm, I think i got some thinking to do before i go to the track then.
can someone explain why they require this??
seriously dont know
.
I assume in case you crash and having the gas tank in the rear is not a good situation. This sucks because i like not having my battery up front but now im reconsidering moving it back since i plan to go to the track a bit. The only alternative i can think of is getting a tiny battery for up front and pulling my rear battery at the track.
Im glad i saw this now though because im in the process of fixing all the garbage i dont like under the hood/preping it for paint. So im going to see if i can fit the optima where A20A1 has his. My problem is all the extra stuff i have already.
some tracks dont really care if there welded down or not. like tulsa if you dont have low et.s they dont check. i mean i've taken my car out to the track numerous times and i dont even pop my hood they just ask and i say yep yep yep, gives me a number and i start slamming gears. they don't even look at my cousins nove which runs a 9.33 in the ¼ i dont even have to take the car to the tech in, i just walk over there and he signs the sheet and i tell him his car numbers that are already on the car.
Some tracks exactly. During the high school race I attended a while back they checked my engine and even went under my car. They did this to every car even if it was practically new and stock. I actually saw them throw out a camaro b/c the battery was mounted in the trunk but since it wasn't isolated from the cabin it wouldn't pass.Originally Posted by KBs playtoy
https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=43055
Currently driving a 95 LS soon to be turbo integra.
so since i have a hatch i can't put it in the back, because it isn't separated from the cabin?
You can but it has to be sealed and vented out of the cabin. So far this is the only comercially available battery box that meets the nhra requirements for a hatch http://www.moroso.com/catalog/catego...?catcode=42001.
andy
I thought those looked expensive. I looked up the price and found them for about $100.
looks nice and secure, but 100 bucks is a lot to hold the batter in place.
Its mainly to contain the gases of the batter so i would guess its sealed up good. Im still looking into alternatives for my car since i dont want a switch outside my car like that.
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