I was just wondering, why is everyone so hung up on using all three bolts? Would using twobolts not be strong enough to keep the distributor from spinning in place? It doesn't have any side-to-side load so that won't be a problem. Am I missing something else altogether? I planned on just slotting two of the legs and bolting those in, while leaving the last one to dangle. Would this not work?
read this.
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18160
i just bought an OBD1 set up and im waiting till it comes in the mail. il take some pics of it. on how to set it up.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
I read that whole post, all 15 pages. Most of the modifications people have done are for mounting it using all three mounting legs. They're also all complicated to the point of scaring me away. I want to be able to drill and slot two of the legs to mount up and be done with it.
well u would have to get it tight enough so oil dosent leak out
No one said you have to do it like someone else, everyone that did it has just shared how they got it to work. Feel free to think outside the box and come up with a different way than every one else. You can mount the distributor in any direction you want as long as you re-drill the cam key to the correct direction so that the distributor is at TDC(top dead center) at the same time as the crank/cam.
This project does require a lot of research and thought/knowledge on how the engine/distributor work.
I did a distributor upgrade on my old Pontiac 400. I sold that car when it had 212,000 miles on it. The distributor was held in place by a bracket held down by ONE bolt. I think your two-bolt idea is plenty sound.
damb! messyhonda is going to do a how to...!Originally Posted by MessyHonda
un-motivated!
someone make me an offer i just could not say no to.
3GR
It's not bolting it up thats the tough part, it's bolting it up and having the correct timing afterward.
We couldn't just change the wire order on the cap could we? I forget if anyone mentioned that already.
- llia
you can change wire order to obtain any position of the dizzy, as long as the new #1 on the cap matches tdc on the crank.
un-motivated!
someone make me an offer i just could not say no to.
3GR
if you dont want to modify alot you can do what openloop did which the pictures are long gone now.
Quick rundown is that you need to bend the waterpipe coming out of the cylinder head down and install the obd1 distributor with the square part facing down and that should put it at tdc withouth having to redrill the key. You will have to cut off the leg that points down I think and then just use flat brackets, bolts. spacers to connect those 2 brackets from the 2 legs that are left on the distributor to the top 2 mounting points on the a20 cylinder head.
not the prettiest but it works.
Here is one pic of openloops setup that i had saved.
here is another view of his set up.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Man... This is not going to be fun.
I'll just wait till my distributor gets here in the mail then start playing around with it and my spare head.
i just got mine today. it has the lil ears welded on.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
i think using a socket cap screw instead of a stud/nut would allow you to get a little more room, and would make clearancing easier, since you don't need to worry about getting the nut on.but definitely still a lot of work.
like mine?
Got any pics?
il post some up....it looks rough but it fits.....i cant wait to get a correct map on it.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
After reading and REreading the entire distributor mod topic again, I think the way I'll end up trying is the very last one. I'll cut the old mounting tabs off the stock cam cap and off some Z6 cam caps, then weld them on to accept the 4g distributor mounting positions. From what I understand, the bottom mount is fine and I'll only have to redrill the cam key. Is this a valid assumption?
Or heck, would it be mounted close enough to just mount the cam key 180* from it's original? Just remove the pin, rotate it, and reinstall it? Or is it not close enough to bring back into adjustment?
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