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Thread: Performance fuel pump

  1. #1
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    Performance fuel pump

    Ok, A20A1 wanted me to post here any additional Qs to his PM about the Carter Super Street fuel pump (tinyurl.com/3oga3) that I recently ordered:

    Would I need a wiring harness for it, or will I have to splice some wires? Should I get a performance (or larger) fuel filter?

    Quote Originally Posted by A20A1
    Get a clear view filter... do you have a weber?
    No, stock carb. Would that pump be too much for my carb and setup? When I'll be installing it, I'll have: Colt Cam (mild tri-flow grind), 2.5" catback+muffler, semi-cai, msd coil. So did I make a mistake buying that pump?

    Quote Originally Posted by A20A1
    Anyways you should bypass the rear filter and other valves on the tank... take the fuel line from the cap that holds the stock pump and fuel pickup and run that line to the new pump... then install the pump as the instructions say... then run the line from the new pump to the hard line that runs thru the side of the car.

    The new fitler can be the fram one that is for carbed domestic cars, it's big so you may need to increase the size of the fuel line to the next bigger size from the firewall to the filter and then to the carb... don't get too big or the hose wont close tight over the stock fuel ports.
    Ok, I think I got it this far: no rear filter, larger front filter..

    Quote Originally Posted by A20A1
    Keep a good watch over the float level when running the carb... you have to run the carb with the stock air box off or if you have the civic air box then you don't need to worry.
    I got the civic air box . So I should watch out for carb flooding? Which screw do I turn to adjust the float level?

    Quote Originally Posted by A20A1
    You also may have problems if you don't remove the stock pump... and place a hose to take it's place... but some people have said they left the stock pump in and the car still ran.
    Ok, I'll keep that in mind. Would my mixture screw need adjustment?



  2. #2

    A20A1's Avatar
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    Mixture screw will need adjustment since the flow/psi is higher

    oh and splice the stock wires since they should still have the priming function.

    If that doesn't work find a on with ignition wire. and a ground

    the screw to adjust the float level is the yellow one on top of the carb, don't adjust it if you don't have to...

    the problem with too high a psi is that the float itself is plastic and may bend some and not seal right... but since it's only 0.7 psi over stock it should be okay. Old rubber seals may not hold against the higher pressure so if you see fuel leak out the top of the float adjustment screw you should replace the o-rings... this requires you to remove the top hat... there is a how-to on removing the float screw on the board somewhere, only if you need to though
    - llia


  3. #3
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    If I bypass the rear filter, but keep the stock one up front, will it keep the psi within spec? Or will it create too much restriction and there's no point in a better pump with the stock filter?

    Thanks Mike

  4. #4

    A20A1's Avatar
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    well the upgraded filter is cheap.... and it's clear so you can be sure fuel is flowing...

    changing the filter wont affect psi... or shouldn't
    - llia


  5. #5

    Mike's89AccordLX's Avatar
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    Hey Mike I was talking with my instructor about putting in a holley fuel pump and he said that there's these fuel pumps where its just like an add on pump where you will have 2 fuel pumps (stock one and the add on one) and then I would need a fpr. I don't have a brand name or specs on it b/c I had to goto work at that time. But have you heard of this and what do you think of this idea?

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    Would this (standard) FPR go well with stock carb and this fuel pump, if I set it at 4 psi?: http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...63&prmenbr=361

    I just really don't want to deal with messing with my carb due to bad o-rings or something...

  7. #7

    A20A1's Avatar
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    Yeah certainly get the standard one... then set it to 3.5 and run like that and if you think it's good go with 4.0 psi.

    You'll need some kind of fuel psi gauge that connects in-line.

    I saw one on summit or jegs, you just cut the fuel line and add in the gauge adapter between the two segments of the fuel lline, then screw the gage into the port on the adapter.
    - llia


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    Great. So it should go like this: [carb]<--[gauge]<--[fpr]<--[filter]<--[pump]<--[filter]<--[tank] ?
    Last edited by keruhas184; 09-15-2004 at 12:16 PM.

  9. #9

    Mike's89AccordLX's Avatar
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    I would say have the regulator after the fuel filter. So that you can make sure the pressure is what you want it right before it goes into the carb. Does that make sense? I dunno it makes sense to me.

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    Oh... I had too much to drink last night... you are exactly right. I'll edit the previous post...

  11. #11

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    well reg after fuel filter to protect the reg...
    - llia


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    One last question... fitment

    The pump has 1/4" NPT fittings, that's the stock fuel line size?

    That FPR is 3/8" NPT, so I guess I'll get a 3/8" size filter... that's not too big for the carb?

    Most gauges are 1/8" NPT... should I get something like this to make it fit inline?

    Oh... the pump instructions say i should slap a filter before the pump to protect it from the gas tank dirt... is this overkill?

    Thanks!
    Last edited by keruhas184; 09-14-2004 at 04:08 PM.

  13. #13

    A20A1's Avatar
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    yeah something like that, that one screws into the gauge though, the one I was refering to just connects to the fuel line.

    Yeah a second filter would be good, especially since our cars are old.
    - llia


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