Hey Guys,
I am changing my rotors out and I have the caliper and bracket off along with the 2 rotor retaining screws out, but I cannot get the rotor off the hub for the life of me!! I have been beating the piss out of it along with soaking it in wd-40 to try and brake it loose. Any suggestions or tips on how to get those buggers off?!?!?!
Thanks,
Cameron
Did you take the spindle nut off? The big nut in the middle? I'm pretty sure that holds it on as well. I'm also remember haveing to bang the shit outta mine and hitting with alot of brake cleaner before it came off.
PS, I think it's a 32MM nut.
you shouldnt have to do more then take off the spindle nut. it should come right off.
Nothin' 2 Old Racing
So the Spindle nut hold it on as well then? I guess I thought that the only thing holding it on was those two little screws....is that nut a real pain in the ass to remove? Also you just used a 32mm 1/2" drive (breaker bar) to remove the spindle nut?
Cameron
right, you don't have to remove the spindle nut. if it's stuck, there are two extra holes in the rotor that you can thread bolts into and then tighten them a little at a time until the rotor comes off.
Uhh.... you don't need to take the spindle nut off. That does nothing except hold the axle tight against the hub. The rotors get rusted on to the hub if they've been on there for awile, so you need to take a hammer and give them some good smacks right between the lug studs. I've had some that have really been stuck on there and I had to sit there and just pound the hell out of them for several minutes before they came off. Be careful not to hit the lug studs. Look for 2 extra holes in the rotor as well, there might be holes to thread 2 small bolts into that will actually push the rotor off the hub (gotta tighten them evenly). They're not easy, but it'll come off eventually.
-Jared
Black '89 Accord LX-i sedan - 436,600 miles and still going strong!
Black/Red '04 Honda CBR 600 F4i -256,100 miles and also counting quick
Originally Posted by Jareds 89 LX-i
Are you sure about the spindle nut? I'm almost positive I took mine off to get the disc off.
I didn't think the Spindle nut needed to come off...so the general vote is that it doesn't not need to be removed?? Also can I thred some bolts into where the rotor retaining screws went in, to push the rotor off? The other 2 holes have got nothing to thread into.
Thanks !
Yeah, I just looked in the honda manual and it doesn't say anything about the spindle nut, looks like the only thing thats holding it on is the lug nuts and rust.
they got threads. yup. you just need the right size bolt.I didn't think the Spindle nut needed to come off...so the general vote is that it doesn't not need to be removed?? Also can I thred some bolts into where the rotor retaining screws went in, to push the rotor off? The other 2 holes have got nothing to thread into.
the retaining screw holes won't work because it will just screw into the hub and not push on it.
Last edited by Strugglebucket; 09-24-2004 at 06:22 PM.
Thanks Guys for all the help! I got them off with a monster ass puller that I borrowed from a friend!!
Cameron
wait. You guys kidding right? The only way my mechanic took it out was after the axle nut( spindle nut) was removed. For example, look at the 4g accord. THey dont have phillips head screws, they got 12mm bolts holding the rotor to the hub and the axle nut holding it. SO u gotta take the spindle nut to get the rotor one.
Man, i thought the older members knew better
NOTE: you need to remove the spindle nut to remove the rotor out. check page 19-11 (suspension folder) from Paul's website. It says you should remove the spindle nut to get the disk out. well i edited and made life easier for you.
You need to take the spindle nut off on 4th gens because they are hub over rotor design, which means you have to use a puller and pull the entire hub/rotor assembly off to change the rotor. The rotor is sandwiched between the knuckle and the hub. Our 3rd gens are rotor over hub design though, much like a RWD vehicle, and you do NOT need to take the spindle nut off to get the rotor out. The hub is attached right to the knuckle, then the rotor is on outside. The spindle nut has absolutely nothing to do with the rotor, it's the hub that it presses against. If your mechanic couldn't get the rotor off your 3rd gen without taking the spindle nut off, then he's an idiot (sorry, but it's true). Trust me I've done it enough times, you don't need to take it off....wait. You guys kidding right? The only way my mechanic took it out was after the axle nut( spindle nut) was removed. For example, look at the 4g accord. THey dont have phillips head screws, they got 12mm bolts holding the rotor to the hub and the axle nut holding it. SO u gotta take the spindle nut to get the rotor one.
Man, i thought the older members knew better
NOTE: you need to remove the spindle nut to remove the rotor out. check page 19-11 (suspension folder) from Paul's website. It says you should remove the spindle nut to get the disk out. well i edited and made life easier for you.
BTW.... those pages you posted are for knuckle/hub disassembly and replacement, not just rotor removal, so for those yes, you do have to take the spindle nut off.
Last edited by Jareds 89 LX-i; 09-26-2004 at 10:21 AM.
-Jared
Black '89 Accord LX-i sedan - 436,600 miles and still going strong!
Black/Red '04 Honda CBR 600 F4i -256,100 miles and also counting quick
I can concur! It doesn't need to come off. I've done it a time or two myself.
when i put the 2 bolts into the threaded holes and tightened them down evenly, my drums poped off. same with the rotors. guess thats what the other guys are suggesting too. hope i dont have this problem of them sticking next time i take the rotors off, that would suck ass.
Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
*Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap
Yeah it is a sure thing that the spindle nut does not need to come off, the best way is to use a big ass puller (why do you think the spindle has a convient little dimple in the center...just the right size for a puller?) or heat the rotor cap with a toarch until thermal expantion breaks it loose.
I also know for a fact that the 4th generation accords have the disc inbetween the knuckle and the hub, as my ex girlfriends car was about 2 times as much to do the brakes compared to a rotor over system (as on the 3g). Also, the reason I voted not to screw with hers and just had a shop do it, taking those out is a 50/50 chance on messing up the wheel bearing.
Thanks again for all the help!
Cameron
BFH ---- BIG FUCKEN HAMMER all i have to say
Jay
hmmmm.......... interesting. then i guess by the instructions, its really not needed. Well then ill have to do mine, hopefully i wont get the bitch ass screw rounded.
Thanks for clearing up the doubt Jared and ghettoAccord, i appriciate it man.
get a big philips screwdriver with a really flatish head, if you know what i mean. then you won't have a problem
Greg
1989 LX-i 2dr 5spd (R.I.P.)
2008 CBR 600RR -- 1995 Toyota Supra NA -- 2013 Nissan Frontier Pro-4x
I use a impact screwdriver. Its a tool that uses a hammers force to spin the screwdriver in a rotation without stripping the screws. Its very purpose was for loosening and tighting rotor screws.
About being stuck.. just get a hammer and hit the one side of the disc and give it a couple of tugs. I found this to work with stuck rotors.
The spindle nut doesnt need to be removed..that manual is saying if you need to replace the knuckle or hub. It just happens the removal of a rotor is in the instructions.
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