Cheap mod? Camshaft Swap B20

[Civvy]

I've got the B20a1 137bhp Gold top.

Now i believe the Black top from Japan is 160bhp (not sure of the code)

The difference between the two is higher compression in the Black top. Due to the head combustion chambers being of different designs??

The cam profile of the Gold top 137bhp is more aggresive!
The cam profile of the Black top is wider!

Sooo, I need to import myself a blacktop head and use the cams from my gold top??

[smufguy]

huh? the heads should be the same dude. the piston top design might have been different. . just the cam profile is different. Save urself some money and get some custom regrind. Better yet. U should be able to find a USDM camshaft with the same part number. PM carotman cause he has the info u need.

PS: Did u follow up on his threads? cause he did a lot of researchign and concating the providers to get the parts so ask him.

[Civvy]

Checkout this old thread i found.
http://www.pdu.co.nz/discussion/viewthread.php?tid=30

[shepherd79]

some one should post there about our site and the research we have done.

[thegreatdane]

Civvy, the compression ratio on the EDM B20A1 and JDM B20A is the same. The cams is most likely different. And the JDM B20A also uses electronic ignition advance.

[Civvy]

Fair enough chaps!! just wondered if i mite of descovered something u guys weren't telling me

It looks like a pretty unused forum

So the difference is just cams then?

[carotman]

The difference (I think) is just cams and the fuel management. You could get reground cams or B18B1 cams (I don't know if you got those non vtec 3rg gen integra in the UK). The Integra B18A cams would work but they are less agressive than the B18B I think.

In any way, I would just get another fuel management (the one from a 3rd gen lude is the minimum decent) and better cams.

[Civvy]

DCOE's are on my wishlist at the moment

[carotman]

oh, then srew the EFI fiel management .

You could get a msd ignition box and tune the advance with it. I don't remember the MSD box number but I know you can use it con carbs to tune the advance.

[Big Jim]

So if i were to change to aftermarket ignition and ECU like say electromotive, i could use B18B aggressive cams plus headwork and manifold work and matching ports up, plus Jenvey B18C ITB manifold with say 4X50mm throttle bodies, and a 2.5" exhaust system. Then blank of both the holes where the cam sensor and dizzy were and that should see me to a good HP number? about say about 220-250bhp? My A20 on twin 45's is pushing out roughly 200bhp but thats about as far as i can go without needing anything major being done like new ITB's with injection lines and tank etc. My B20A FI engine in my 2nd car would be cheaper to get a good FI setup on as it has the lines and tank all in place not sure if the pump would have to be binned though?

[smufguy]

TEC3 thats a nice choice big Jim. so u basically wanna go with a crank trigg huh? I can see someone thinking like me. Dammit, do u read minds?

[rjudgey]

yeah been thinking about it for ages and done a lot of research and at the end of the day you pay for what you get!!

[Civvy]

I've been thinking recently bout going F.I. how far from Weber standards would i be if i were to use a B16/B18 mani. and OBD1 conversion??

[smufguy]

I've been thinking recently bout going F.I. how far from Weber standards would i be if i were to use a B16/B18 mani. and OBD1 conversion??

You need more than just that. The lines, the ecu, wiring harness (cabin and engine bay) and gas tank and pump and such. If you are gonna custom rig the efi (which i dont recommend). If u dont wanna waste a lot of money and want to get some power. Check the project section for the webber and get urself some aggressive cam and u will be good.

[RobT5580]

Just a fair WARNING you have to have the B18 cams shortened a little bit. I sent crower my cams for sizing and got the stage two turbo cams but the timing belt would walk off the cam gears when turning it over by hand. The problem is the cams are a tad longer. Also the degree is slightly off so your cams gears wont line up when setting the timing. I can't recall how much it was off because i tried a few combinations with stock cams, stock gears, crower cams, and aftermarket gears. So with that said i would get some re-grinds to save yourself some headache's.

[Civvy]

The only things i need are the tank and a steel braided rubber feed line.
I've got the harnesses/ecu/pump and sensors from another car.
Thanks for the info Rob, i though the only issue was with the cyl sensor. be good if we could update the intechangable parts list and maybe it could include experiences too. I think regrinds are the best option now having looked into all other options, plus i have spares.
I want to run low boost so I will proberbly get away with most stock components i.e. pistons and cams.
Also thats why i have more pro's than cons for using F.I.
I've looked into charging Webers in the research and development forum but its gona cost more than to use the parts ive got already and i've got a lot of travelling to do next year!

[RobT5580]

I really wanted to use the crowers but i dont think its worth the problems i could have. They have a much higher lift which make it more likely to have contact with the pistons if your timing is off or you adjust the cam gears. So im going to have my spare set sent out for a re-grind and stay on the safe side.