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Thread: efi and p&p cylinder head swap started

  1. #1
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    efi and p&p cylinder head swap started

    hey guys, i just started my efi and port and polished cylinder head swap today...ive been workin for about 4 hours and i have about everything engine wise out, it don't think its bad for that much time of work.........i can't wait to get this done and see how she runs
    if junkyards didn't exist, neither would my car...



  2. #2

    Mike's89AccordLX's Avatar
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    I thought that's what your last thread was about? I dunno.... did you have to remove the efi stuff yourself or did you just buy the stuff from someone?

  3. #3
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    my last thread was to just kinda to get some information about the swap other than the how to just so i know what im doin, and it was helpful, i learned the efi camshaft is better and some other stuff, but now that i have just about everything im goin ahead and doing it, also for some weird reason my car wouldn't start the other day and it coulda been a million things, so i guess that was just the little voice inside of me sayin "do the swap" haha
    if junkyards didn't exist, neither would my car...

  4. #4
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    hey, this probably sounds really stupid but im still a noob so im allowed to ask this, haha....when your putting the timing belt back on, how do i know if its on the sprocket right?? does there need to be a different amount of tension on one side from the other or is it just equal or what?? lemme know, i was just wondering, i woulda marked the belt but i had to spin the crankshaft so i could check out the pistons and cylinders, yuck, those pistons were coated in black schyt
    if junkyards didn't exist, neither would my car...

  5. #5

    maka_RTH's Avatar
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    on the cam gear, there is a mark on it or something to the effect as to where the top is. and the top needs to be level to the head. i'd take a pic of a cam gear.., but it's at my parents house.., so yah. basically, with the crank at TDC, and the cam gear level with the head(if that makes sense), the belt just goes on.
    Greg

    1989 LX-i 2dr 5spd (R.I.P.)

    2008 CBR 600RR -- 1995 Toyota Supra NA -- 2013 Nissan Frontier Pro-4x

  6. #6
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    yeah, i knew that, but that didn't seem to be a very precise method, but i guess if thats how its done ill do it that way, i guess u can just fine tune that with the distributor and all that fun stuff....ok thanks
    if junkyards didn't exist, neither would my car...

  7. #7
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    hey, is it gonna be safe to go without the manifold holder bracket for a couple days, or is it that necessary that my flange is gonna crack and fall off in like a days time?? cuz im runnin short on a time schedule now, money also, haha, but i was just wondering, i don't wanna do all this and have to buy a new manifold
    if junkyards didn't exist, neither would my car...

  8. #8
    3Geez Veteran smufguy's Avatar
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    http://www.pauldesign.ru/honda/shopmanual.html << go here and look at the section you have trouble with.

    You should have read how to put back an engine before you started to take it apart. But this shop manual is for european accord but its the same for us when it comes to most of the stuff and u putting the T-belt on is the same so follow it and u should not have any doubts. i suggest you hunt the Ebay for some Honda Shop manuals (genuine).

  9. #9
    3Geez Veteran AccordEpicenter's Avatar
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    let us know how its going... how much work did you do on the head?
    429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*

  10. #10
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    i got everything out of the car right now, inside and out, i got the new alternator in, the new fuel pump in, but i can't progress any further cuz i have to get the cabin wiring harness before i can go any further and the fuel feed line, so im in a jam on the inside and i need the coolant pipe, so im in a jam in the engine...but i guess its comin along, i just need a ride to the junkyard, lol
    if junkyards didn't exist, neither would my car...

  11. #11
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    if junkyards didn't exist, neither would my car...

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