Ripped off?

[barber107]

Last week I bought a 1987 Honda Accord LX-i that is in good condition and only has 130,000 miles on it (pics to come soon). I paid $1190 for it, but I wonder if I got taken for a ride and here is why.

When I took it for a test spin, I beat the hell out of it to see what it had and everything seemed to be great. The only problems it had were minor non-engine and non-tranny things that I wouldn't mind fixing myself (tach not working, broken door handle, and minor dents), so I decided to buy it. Now, I have had it for almost a week and I just had the PGM-FI light come on and upon reading the ECM I get a code 7. Did I buy a lemon or is there still hope for my 3GEE?

Details:

The PGM-FI light only comes on when the car gets over 5000 rpm (hard acceleration). The light will stay on until the car is turned off and will not come back on until you accelerate really hard. The PGM-FI light doesn't really seem to affect the car once it is on, other than the idling being a little erratic (missing 1/3rd of the time when idling). Could this all be related to the code 7 from the ECM or is this a separate issue? If it is related, what am I looking at to have a new throttle-body put on the car since I can't just replace the TB sensor? Is it worth trying to find one in a junk yard or should I bite the bullet and see what a mechanic will take me for?

Other problems:

Also, now the whole car seems to shake a lot when idling like at a stop. If I take it out of drive and put it in neutral or park the vibration decreases a lot. Or if I give it a little gas it seems to disappear. The engine seems to be running smooth, but I can’t watch it with the car in gear to see if it acts differently then and it sounds fine from inside the car. Other than that I am happy with the little hatchback.

I am only looking to get a year (10,000 miles or so) out of this little bastard until I can get my debt down and buy a new car. I bought the Honda because I couldn't think of a more reliable car and now it looks as if I am getting the only lemon Honda has ever made. I wish I would have come to this site before I bought it and learned to check the ECM codes because I probably wouldn't have bought it with a code seven.

Any and all suggestions are welcome.

Thanks in advance.

Matt

[maka_RTH]

i don't know about the throttle position sensor, other than maybe check the connection and make sure it's good. but for the rough idle, i'd almost say it sounds like it's idling too low. it should be about 750-900 rpms in gear with the AC on i believe(it's listed under the hood). also, a basic tune-up(plugs and wires, cap, rotor) may help that as well. i know there's been other stuff on the site about the TP sensor.., you could try searching for tips/tricks. if you do need a new one.., i could sell you the one off my parts car.

[barber107]

i don't know about the throttle position sensor, other than maybe check the connection and make sure it's good. but for the rough idle, i'd almost say it sounds like it's idling too low. it should be about 750-900 rpms in gear with the AC on i believe(it's listed under the hood). also, a basic tune-up(plugs and wires, cap, rotor) may help that as well. i know there's been other stuff on the site about the TP sensor.., you could try searching for tips/tricks. if you do need a new one.., i could sell you the one off my parts car.

What would you want for it, including shipping it to Columbus, Ohio 43210? I would like to do the work myself unless other people tell me its worth taking it to the mechanic. I just bought the service manual and I think I can handle most anything with my knowledge and that wonderful book.

[accordlxi2.0]

ummm i paid $400 for my 88 lx( i think the owner felt sorry he was gonna sell it for $800).
and i have the same milege as you.
if it was the t/p sensor
it would'nt idle at all.
but it'll last for a loooonnng time.
these cars take a beating.
as for checking the engine in drive or reverse you can do it.
just have some distance between your car and another car,fence, building, etc.
then pull on the e-brake as far as you can.
then put it in drive( best if the engine is warm and idle is normal).
then let your foot off the brake it's gonna . . . . ..
act like it's launching, but if it stays in place then it's fine.

plus what you can do to see if the mounts are fine, open the hood and you can see thru the gap of it.
put it in drive, goose the throttle, if it lifts up 2 inches or more the front is no good.
it's best to replace the front and the side mount.

aparantly the tp sensor is going out if it can't give the ecu info past 5,000rpms. though

[TEXANHATCH]

I paid $1300 for mine. 88 lx-i 5 speed. 133k miles but the odometer had to be adjusted in order to be accurated. Rack and pinion was leaking but I cut the P/S belt off. Some rust under the vehicle but overall the vehicle drives pretty good. A/c working, the car runs excellent, 80 to 90mph without any vibration, 31 - 32 miles per gallon. Radio working, interior in excellent condition, I had to put new tires. So I think, when we talk about prices around $1000 for a Honda if the vehicle runs fine, a/c working, no major leaks, the price is good. When I was shopping around for a vehicle around $1000 I went to severals used auto sales lots and it was hard to find any vehicle in good condition specially if you are talking about a Honda car. The vibration in the automatic cars is very common but as far as I know nothing else is gonna happen with the transmission so it depends how bad is vibrating. Specially if you want to keep the vehicle for only 10k miles I wouldnt worry about fix it. Dont spend too much money in the car unless that you are planning to keep it. Thats my advice.