stalling gone when warm

[Brentm]

I have a carbed auto 86 hatch.

If I dont let my car warm up I get all sorts of stalling/hesitation problems, but if I let it idle in my driveway for like 10-20 mins in the morning, it runs perfect. What could be causing this? dirty carb? Then during the day I dont have to let it warm up at all if I go anywhere, its pretty odd. Just the initial warm up in the morning and Im good to go for a day. (this was even in the summer)

[TheSummoner101]

my car does the same thing...i've cleaned the carb and still have to do it...otherwise i get the same cr@p. only difference is my car only takes about 3 mins to warm up, it used to take about 5 mins but since i replaced the thermostat with a new one from honda, it took off two mins (not sure if it was the actual reason, but i still love the fact i save extra 2 mins).

just go a bit early, warm up ur car...

[BlueBead]

I had the same problem a while ago and I never dealt with it until two weeks ago, then the next day the car got totalled- go figure.
-Replace your fuel filters and use up a spraycan of carb cleaner. Mine used to stall out right after I'd start it. The morning of the crash it started and ran with zero hesitation. That was the first time that had happened! Good luck!

[TheSummoner101]

im gonna wait for what A20A1 (the mod) has to say, he has a lot of knowledge about our carb engines....

[A20A1]

Warm up time of 5 - 10 minuets is normal in cold weather...

Over here it's farily mild to cold so every once and a while I gotta wait 5 minuets. Even then most times you wont get a nice steady idle untill the temp gauge reads close to half way.

Coolant plays a role in the engine warm up and carb heating, it is also responsible for some choke operation and the coolant temp, so make sure you have the right coolant mixture and the coolant is full...

Also make sure that there isn't things like a

- Leaking coolant from water pump or hose or faulty coolant part like the thermostat. A thermostat stuck open will cause the coolant to circulate differently and it wont transfer heat from the motor as well.

- Vacuum leak

- Wrong / Old / Incorrect Gap / can cause the spark plugs to foul

- Cap & Rotor

Fuel filters and cleaning the carb should be done regularly, and should be done if you have never done it in a long time... say 6 months - 1 year.

[Brentm]

I have the correct level and mixture (50/50) of coolant and its like brand new cause I change it regularly, I just did my fuel filter under the hood (rear one was removed but not by me, I'm working on this one) plugs are gapped to .42 (I think, ifnot then its somewhere close to that) cap and rotor are good, spray can cleaned my carb last week. Last thing to check for is a vacuum leak, where is a common problem for these to occur?

If this helps solve the problem, the first time you start it in the morning it takes 3 starts, first start it will run then die after less than 5 seconds, second start it will idle normally but if you give it gas it dies, 3rd start it starts fine and yuo can rev it up all you want and no problems. It starts fine, not flooding, not cranking for like 5 minutes, every time I go to start it. I even had to let this thing idle for 10 mins in the middle of summer in high 20 degree weather.

[TheSummoner101]

I have the correct level and mixture (50/50) of coolant and its like brand new cause I change it regularly, I just did my fuel filter under the hood (rear one was removed but not by me, I'm working on this one) plugs are gapped to .42 (I think, ifnot then its somewhere close to that) cap and rotor are good, spray can cleaned my carb last week. Last thing to check for is a vacuum leak, where is a common problem for these to occur?

If this helps solve the problem, the first time you start it in the morning it takes 3 starts, first start it will run then die after less than 5 seconds, second start it will idle normally but if you give it gas it dies, 3rd start it starts fine and yuo can rev it up all you want and no problems. It starts fine, not flooding, not cranking for like 5 minutes, every time I go to start it. I even had to let this thing idle for 10 mins in the middle of summer in high 20 degree weather.

the carb engine has a lot of vacume lines, i reccomend just doing a visual check, and carefully check all the major pipes coming out of the black vacume box thing

check ur fuel line and fuel pump, maybe ur not getting enought gas? most likely its a vacume leak, i have a vacume leak, and i have to start my car twice, first time it dies after 5 seconds....

[accordlxi2.0]

hmm, after i did a20a1 mod( removed 1/2 of the lines).
but i don't even have to pump the gas, it start's up from, 1-5 second's ( 5 seconds if i don't start it in a day or two).
but it sttarts rev to, 1,200 rpms for a few seconds then go down, to 300rpms.
then go to 900 till it warms up. ( when temp gauge goes between the cold and warm indicator)

but the problem i have is when i push the gas 1/2 way, the car will stall out or putter . . ..
i think it's too much gas going into the carb or something.

so i'm pretty much in the same boat with you guys . . . .

[A20A1]

you removed the ABC... so you will have a rich mixture.

[Brentm]

my number 16 vacuum line is disconnected and plugged with a screw, and the hole where its supposed to connect is also blocked, (i think its the right place) its been like this forever. there was a bunch of pictures of the vacuum line locations somewhere, if somone could dig it up for me thatd be awesome.

[A20A1]

Two things:

1) Simplified vacuum diagrams listed here
https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=11067

2) This is not a complete vacuum diagram but it will list line # 16 which is a part of the EGR function.

[accordlxi2.0]

oh yea, i remember that, so i need a less restrition air filter . . . .
well i have something else to take care of.