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Thread: Auto-2-5speed notes...

  1. #1

    Auto-2-5speed notes...

    Alright I did it and the damn car is still sitting w/out me driving cuz now I can't get the starter in; the plate it sits on is different so hopefully I can just get it and swap my old starter onto it

    tools: 10, 12, 14, 17, 19mm sockets or wrenches w/ assorted extensions, u-joints, breaker bars, whatever else you want to bring. If you're dropping the steering column the 12 has to be a deep socket. A jack for raising up the car, removing/installing the trans. Jack stands. Oil drain pan and 3 quarts of motor oil 10/30-20/50 whatever. I'd get the thicker one, it gets so hot in there anyways. Strong diagonal cutters will come in handy.

    1. need the following:
    engine bay: tranny (make sure it has the reverse light hookup wires coming out the front) clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, rear mount bracket (the black thing with 3 holes on the side... the rubber mount is the same) clutch cable, starter.
    interior: boot and knob, pedals (with switches), shifter hole cover plate assembly (lol I swear I didn't make that up )

    Optional: Fuel Gauge w/out gear lights, M/T driveshafts, Carbs: Get the throttle control vacuum 1-way valve from the 5speed also and note how it's hooked up. The automatics have that port available with a plug. It needs a constant vacuum tap. not a requirement.


    Take care to note: The auto trans has a great center of balance on the jack, the 5-speed fell over like 4 times, get help for reinstalling it. Cruise control cars have an extra pair of pins on the brake switch, the accelerator cable is also different but that's not necessary to swap. To change the pedals it is easier to take out the steering column first (also have someone hold the booster from the engine bay for you or pull on the actuator rod from the inside as you put the pedals on it). Installing the tranny with the shift rods on it is going to be damn near impossible, unbolt them from the tranny and install them first to the center hump. The automatic neutral/park start wires need to be either jumped or connected to the clutch pedal switch. The reverse lights wires (2) need to be run into the car and connected to the auto trans gear selector wiring harness. I think the axles are the same, they both connected fine. I dunno how you all fill your trannies but I filled it through the power steering/speedo cable gear. Oh also you can crank up the ignition timing some more now that it's stick but #1 I doubt the automatic distrib has the range of the 5-speed one and #2 I haven't tried out the car yet so I dunno if you can max it out listen for rattling pistons


    BTW at the end I ended up getting the boring ass A6 or whatever trans off an 87 DX cuz the other 5-speed at the yard had 250k on it, this one only 151k. Whenever I swap the cluch I'll throw on a 1-2-3 from a Teggie. I'm off to get that starter bracket I'll let you all know how it goes. If anyone has some C4 I have an auto trans that can use an exploding.
    Eric
    3geez member since October 12, 2000
    "All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau



  2. #2

    maka_RTH's Avatar
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    lol, sounds good. i too have an auto tranny laying around for whatever may come its way..., lol. as far as teh cv joints, i compared them side by side(auto and manual). the passenger side was almost exactly the same(like, less then a 1/4 inch in length difference, that for all i know was the different manufacturer or something). however, the end of the shaft that goes into the differential on the auto is almost and inch longer than the manual one. i didn't actually try to put the auto one in(even though my auto one is almost brand new), cuz i thought it might start pushing the otehr side out or something. however, if it did work, that's awesome, one less thing for the parts list to switch over. the 5spd tranny as a 17mm fill bolt on the side towards the back.., but a lot of them are siezed. mine was, so i too just used the speed sensor hole. for the shift rods, i bolted up the tranny, then put the shift rods on so that the one side was already held up. just a note: it's a pain in the but working around the heat shield..., it could be easier to drop the exhaust somewhat, however, i was too lazy to do that, and therefore i know it is possible to just work around the heat shield. other than that, it was way straight forward, just a couple tight places/heavy items(i dropped the trannies and put the 5spd back up by myself, like a bench press kinda...)
    Greg

    1989 LX-i 2dr 5spd (R.I.P.)

    2008 CBR 600RR -- 1995 Toyota Supra NA -- 2013 Nissan Frontier Pro-4x

  3. #3
    3Geez Veteran AccordEpicenter's Avatar
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    as far as i know both the 5 speed and auto dizzys are the same
    429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*

  4. #4

    maka_RTH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AccordEpicenter
    as far as i know both the 5 speed and auto dizzys are the same
    agreed, that's on the head. nothing to do with the tranny.

    *edit: by the way, it's good to see you back eric. i haven't really seen you on in a long time.
    Last edited by maka_RTH; 11-09-2004 at 12:48 PM.
    Greg

    1989 LX-i 2dr 5spd (R.I.P.)

    2008 CBR 600RR -- 1995 Toyota Supra NA -- 2013 Nissan Frontier Pro-4x

  5. #5
    I said that b/c I think the stickshift cars say to set the timing at 20 or 21 degrees whereas suckomatic is 15 degrees... I don't remember 100% tho... hell I felt like a noob when I looked at the tranny and was like "Ok, where do I fill this thing?"

    It good to be back... my post whore days are done

    I hope the input spline being longer doesn't fudge anything up then!! Maybe it'll act like a locking diff (or my luck an exploding diff)
    Eric
    3geez member since October 12, 2000
    "All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau

  6. #6

    maka_RTH's Avatar
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    the timing is just different between the carbs and fi's. all the fi's are 15, and the carbs are something like the 20 or 21.
    Greg

    1989 LX-i 2dr 5spd (R.I.P.)

    2008 CBR 600RR -- 1995 Toyota Supra NA -- 2013 Nissan Frontier Pro-4x

  7. #7

    maka_RTH's Avatar
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    hey eric.., this could be an answer to why not to use the auto cv joint... https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=8284 just keep an eye on it.
    Greg

    1989 LX-i 2dr 5spd (R.I.P.)

    2008 CBR 600RR -- 1995 Toyota Supra NA -- 2013 Nissan Frontier Pro-4x

  8. #8
    oh shit wow thanks.

    The splines seated fine I dunno, I guess I'll have to take it easy for now but it's hard, my car moves so much nicer now!!

    I should have done this years ago, my car didn't peel out anymore and after swapping the trans it'll break loose at 10mph w/out even dumping the clutch its great! I haven't even messed with the carb or timing!

    I have found myself joyriding my car for the hell of it, what's wrong with me!!??!

    I definately need to make a shortshifter though, it's an eyesore being that tall and once I get adjusted to driving stick I'll shorten the throw also.
    Also I'll change the gears when I get the clutch replaced... I got the tall geared one (DX A2Q6) but 1st gear is plenty short for me!! I'm thinking swapping only 2nd and 3rd with the would be perfect
    Eric
    3geez member since October 12, 2000
    "All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau

  9. #9

    maka_RTH's Avatar
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    lol, i know all to well what you mean, i can't help but break my tires loose every once in a while, my auto couldn't do it at all(unless it was raining and i was turning.., lol). yah, i'd like to get a short throw shifter. my project car is gonna bet my teg-tranny hybrid. that'll be fun once its done
    Greg

    1989 LX-i 2dr 5spd (R.I.P.)

    2008 CBR 600RR -- 1995 Toyota Supra NA -- 2013 Nissan Frontier Pro-4x

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