how can I cut the axle nut off??

[POS carb]

Mopfhukkinshizzleazzpunkbitchhoooo!! aahh better

i've been trying for a good hour an d a half to make the pass. side cv joint nut come off and it won't budge, not even with an impact gun. I've tried to cut it with a dremel but keep breaking all the cut off wheels plus I doubt I'm even going to be able to make a clean cut but I was desperate. wft can I do short of replacing the whole damn nuckle?? I used rust eater spray (like wd40 i guess) and the freaking drivers side came loose without even 10 seconds of work!!! stupid car I wanna get drunk :alc:

happy thanksgiving everyone BTW!

['89AccordLX(Rus)]

Have you tried heating the nut with a torch? You can also try using a big breaker bar on it, but I would try heating it first and then jump on it with the impact wrench. BTW, what kind of an impact wrench are you using? Considering the torque applied to the nut when it is tightened, a cheap wrench may not produce enough torque to break it loose.

[Luis 89LXi]

i work on both axles last week.

use a flat screwdriver to unlock the tab on nut.
then use a 20" breaker bar and a 3ft. metal tube (fits rigth on the breaker bar) to losen the nut. came real easy. you need someone to brake the front wheels.

Luis

[SHURIK]

DID U EVER TRY driling the nut on ither side and give her some with a braker bar ant the nut will fall apart and a chisel helps to it will split and fall off i had to do it last time like that cause i went to a truck shop where thay torqe the lugs on big rigs and the impact gun wouldent losen it so i got pist got a good drill bit drild the shit out of it and the beat the shit out of it with a chisel and guess what itcame of in ten min

[POS carb]

i put like 8 or 9 deep cuts in it already and with the breaker bar I kept turning over the engine so when I "locked" the crank pulley the clutch started slipping while I jumped on the end of a 4 foot pole and I scratched my damn rear door ... gotta go find me an air gun

[86LXItooFAST4me]

why is your engine turning over? put the wheel back on and set the car on the ground. then break lose the nut with the weight opf the car holding it, not the engine.

[POS carb]

what the hell it's like 50 degrees outside! (Miami, this is "cold"!) anywaysssss.......

i've messed up my rim like that b4 but u r right, on the drivers side I did it w/ the rim still on and it came loose, I took off the other rim b/c the nut was stuck and the socket/bar kept falling off and scratching the rim

I finally got it off, I drilled holes in it like this guy said and then the stupid socket kept faling off when i'Id stand on the bar so I grinded the edges a little with the dremel and hammered a 30mm socket onto it (the nut is 32mm) and then i jammed a fat flathead into the rotor vents and then with the extension pole I broke it loose!!!! mofo! lol all it cost me was a socket (cuz now the nut is stuck inside of it)

Oh and one of the radius rod bolts broke off inside the arm, arrrgh whatever feeling the new bushings in there will make up for it, maybe I'll just put sum JB Weld for added security... I'm not going to worry about it cuz next is going to be a 4th gen knuckle swap, i'll grab the arm at the same time and get sum energy suspension bushings for it....

thx 4 the suggestions, I was waiting for someone to jump in and say "it's a reverse thread on that side!!"

so... in retrospect, this is what I learned:

you don't need to remove the lower ball joint as per the manual, I guess they think swapping those is easy (or cheap!) I removed the strut-to-lower arm bolt, the lower arm-to-frame bolt, and the upper arm nuts (the 'lude arms disconnect so I don't have to drop the whole thing)
take the axle out of the hub first, then out of the trans
jamming the rotor is easier than using the brakes/trans/engine
watch out with the paint!!!