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Thread: Amp and Sub problems please help....

  1. #1
    DX User Imran's Avatar
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    Angry Amp and Sub problems please help....

    Ok guys here's what i had done to install my amp and my sub.

    I ran the wire from the battery through the left side of the car.
    Ran the cables from the HU from the right side of the car. Both the RCA and the REM cable are running together don't know if that is the problem. Well in the beginning everything worked fine till i tore up my box, Then i changed my box and it was all fun but not for long. The sub stopped working, I don't know if it is the sub or the amp which is creating the problem well what was happeneing was that the sub would work sometimes and it won't work sometimes. like there was a loose connection or someting. So i thot my preamps would be the problem so i switch the RCA cables from the rear preamp outputs to the front preamp outputs on the HU. Then it worked fine for a couple of weeks and now it is doing the same thing. when i am driving i feel the bass one second and the next second it is gone. If I push the break I feel the bass and if i press the gas the bass is gone, same as what it was doing earlier. it is really weird I don't know what to do and i don't know what i am doing wrong. Is it the wiring somewhere. I don't have my amp or the sub mounted. so would that be a problem. also i wasn't getting this problem with my old amp, its the new one which is irritating me. If you want to know the spcifications of my amp and the sub they are here: https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=38553

    Please help me guyz... Its really pissing me off now...

    Thanx
    -Imran



  2. #2
    DX User z3bra's Avatar
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    well i ran my remote and rca cables together to, they shouldnt crosstalk, so that shouldnt be the problem

    you are running a 2 channel amp and single coil woofer, is the amp bridged to the woofer right now?

    if you need help msg me on aim: MrBojangles816

  3. #3
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    is the amp going into protection mode? What gauge wire are you using for power and where do you have the amp grounded at?

  4. #4
    SEi User 88accordalltheway's Avatar
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    ive had the sme suymptoms before. its the little wires that go from the voice coil to the speaker inputs. You have to re-solder(or at least add more solder) them at the inputs. Im 100% sure thats what this is because it has happened to me on every sub ive had. the best way to get the best connection is to solder the amp output wires to the little wires themselves, just bypass the inputs on the speaker.
    Like this:



    Im guarenteeing you 100% this is your problem!!!!
    Last edited by 88accordalltheway; 11-25-2004 at 11:13 AM.
    Kevin

  5. #5
    SEi User 88accordalltheway's Avatar
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    oh yea, i just used the speaker inputs to hold the amp output wires in place so they wont rip out of they were ever pulled hard. Also, when i soldered it all, i just wraped the amp output wires around the little wire and soldered the mofo. Good luck doing this. If you have further questions PM me or IM me on AIM.
    Kevin

  6. #6
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    he could just have a loose ground so the power won't flow.

  7. #7
    SEi User 88accordalltheway's Avatar
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    no, if his ground was loose he would have blew his fuse on the power wire a loooong time ago.
    Kevin

  8. #8
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    not necessarily, my ground was loose and it'd just cut in and out when it would lose a solid connection and i never had a problem with my fuses.

  9. #9

    shepherd79's Avatar
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    ok, here are possible problems:
    1. the amp is tunned wrong (too much gain) and the amp is going into thermal break point.
    2. you turned your gain too far or you turned the bass boost too far, thus you clipped the sub one too many times, and that moved the cove way to the top. with the stereo turned on, push in the middle of the sub. if it starts playing. you fried your coil in the sub. you need a new one.
    3. your grounds may be loose somewhere or something is touching the ground. plus make sure the ground is actually grounded to the metal and not to the paint. you have to sand the paint and primer for best ground connection. P.S. if ground was loose, it won't blow the fuse. it will just cut off and on.
    Alex.

  10. #10
    DX User Imran's Avatar
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    hey thanx guyz sorry did't reply to the questions asked... I am using a bridged connection. And the tuned it exactly to what Vanilla Sky told me that is:

    ok, first of all, have you set your amp up in a "bridged" configuration? that will be the FIRST thing you need to do... when you set that up, set the gain (similar to a volume knob, but works differently) to about half way... that should get you some pretty good output, and still not overpower the subwoofer (remember, the sub's max power may be 1200 watts, but its RMS power is only 350 watts, so watch out)...

    as for the settings, here you go:
    the one on the left (marked "LEVEL") needs to be straight up to begin with, and turn to the left (counterclockwise) 1/16 turn at a time until you reach the desired level
    the knob in the middle (marked "LOW BOOST (40hz)") should be turned all the way left (counterclockwise)

    the knob to the right (marked "filter") should be turned so that the "up" points to 110

    the switch (marked with "off" and "LPF") should be switched towards "LPF"

    the subwoofer needs to be wired as per the box in the instructions marked "AS MONAURAL AMPLIFIER FOR A SUBWOOFER"


    Also it might be the ground I have it grounded in the taillight. I will be changing my ground position...

    Thanks alot again for all you help... I'll solder it too if the ground doesn't help.

  11. #11
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    the shock tower is probably the best place to ground it in the trunk.

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