ok the diagram i posted shows the one that broke. i am online and going through the things that you mentioned...please keep with me here man. i have got to go to work tomorow. sorry to be pushy im just worried about my finances. ill edit the post as i do things.
ok the bottom two ports on your first recent pic go straight through, but not sure about the top two. for shits and giggles and safteys sake ill just loop them.
Last edited by Coy; 01-11-2005 at 06:44 PM.
awe man, couldn't you have waited till the weekend.
I'll check back every couple of minuets...
I hope it runs.
- llia
well i started saturday, but sunday my girls car roasted the clutch. had to deal with that and her emotions all day ..im still adding to the first reply
float bowl vents removed. and i went out friday and bought a box of plugs and T's
about the broke thermovalve... if i just left the broken port open would it be ok, and then the one that isnt broken can be attached to the vacuum advance. there doesnt really seem to be a way of plugging that thermovalve that i can think of.
as far as removing that diaphram is it for a certain reason, or is it a hunch? i dont mind testin it but im sure its gunna be a paint puttin it back on.
Last edited by Coy; 01-11-2005 at 07:00 PM.
sorry bout the dual topic thing, just didnt think that anyone that didnt know the 85's would even take a look at this post. thought id touch a little closer to home with the other one, since it seems that thermovalve A on the 1.8 is perty much the same thing as the thermovalve A on the 2.0.
Last edited by Coy; 01-11-2005 at 07:34 PM.
The one that isn't broken belongs to #19
and the other one is #17 which is the bleed.
If you place a vacuum line to the #17 then vacuum wont be able to bleed.
what you can do is try to run another "T" on #19 that way you'll have another port ner the thermovalve... you could use that to hook up #25.
you still need to cover the #25 port on the thermovalve... it is a vacuum passage and will most likely cause a vacuum leak. if you had hot glue maybe you could plug it with that... just apply it around the mouth of the port and let it slowly cover the hole... it may or may not last...
- llia
i highlighted the wrong damn port, its the one that you have 17 attached to that is broken
its a three port, with #17 #19 and a plug attached. the port that #17 goes on is broke and i attached the one that was supposed to be plugged to #25, and 19 is on the end port.
Last edited by Coy; 01-11-2005 at 07:38 PM.
if worse comes to worse... you might be able to get away with using only one thermovavle...
add a "T" to #18 near the thermovalve... then connect the #19 from the thermovalve to the "T" on #18.
remember if the car has a hard time running with #19 connecter to manifold vacuum then remove the "T" and keep #19 from the thermovalve to the fast idle unloader on the choke.
again don't worry about #25...
- llia
should i start it? with my current setup of #19 on the end port, and 25 on the unbroke port, and the other port open since it goes to the bleed valve.
the four ports on the carb have the bottom two plugged and the top two looped together
oh then don't worry about it
- llia
ill plug the T on #19 if it has problems running
dont worry about the thermovalve broken port?
I would have plugged the top two and looped the bottom two, but I guess it's okay for now. I guess there isn't much room for a vacuum line across the bottom two.
- llia
Yeah if it's #17 just leave it.
- llia
plenty of room for a line, but i could see the wire inside of the carb.
Last edited by Coy; 01-11-2005 at 07:47 PM.
oh on that diaphragm I was telling you you can remove... well if you don't decide to remove it then at least make sure you turn the adjustment screw out so it't not touching the thorttle linkage...
- llia
will do, thats what i was thinking anyways
all adjustments will be made on the idle screw right?
So are you ready to start yet? all manifold vacuum ports capped off? all electrical wires hooked to the carb? except the wires for the base of the carb if your carb has an EFE screen... I wouldn't hook up that wire.
- llia
yes the idle screw... just wait though untill the car has fully warmed up... wait for the fan to turn on or for the needle on the temp gauge to reach what it normally does after you have driven for a while.
- llia
the fast idle unloader and some other little thingy thats right about the four ports on the carb are the only wired items on it, but im going to double check all line connections before i start it and disconnect the diaphram from the linkage
You mean remove right? not disconnect...
8mm socket or wrench should get off those 2 bolts... or use the screw dirver... and you'll need some pliers to get off the pin.
- llia
how did you hook you #14 #6 and #2 ?
Did you just use vacuum T's and connect it like it shows in the diagram or did you connect them to the other ports on the same part where #19 is connected to manifold vacuum?
Either way is fine...
- llia
Yeah the choke wire and the little solenoid that bolts onto the carb needs to have power to them... just making sure
- llia
#14 #6 are to the four port manifold vacuum on the drivers side, and #2 is on the passenger side where the three of them where to go to originally.
i disconnected the diaphram from the linkage by removing the pin that was through it, its still on the carb. im going to remove the screws that hold it on, but thats all thats holding it on right now.
all electronics are attached as they where before i started
everythings been checked and double checked and im bouts to start it.
Last edited by Coy; 01-11-2005 at 08:20 PM.
#25 is connected to the thermovalve
yeah remove the diaphragm completely...
thats good with #25 from the thermovalve to the distributor you'll have the extra cold vacuum advance. it should help you run / idle smoother.
and hurry I'm starting to doze off... it's almost time for me to go to bed.
- llia
ok, its going from 14 to 18 rpm. drops slowly but comes back up quick.
note...its smokeing quite a bit, its grey smoke
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