Was that pic from the shop manual?
Was that pic from the shop manual?
- llia
Ok you are right Dan,the gas only comes out of the accelerator pump nozzle when the throttle is hit.Thanks A20A1,I figured out the thermostat is inside of the housing and the thermovalve needs to be replaced also.Isnt there a seal between the housing and the block that needs replacing,or is that the same seal for the thermostat?also is my car the A20A1?plug all the ports on the carb?,and what do I do with the thermovalve vacumm line #28 after you route the secondary diaphragm line to the carb?
Ok,I talked to another mechanic who said it probably isnt the thermostat or anything related,it is the wiring in the dash for the fuel relay sensor or whatever and the other wiring for the rest of the fuel system,the fuel pump and other crap.I have to look on the manual to see what exactly is wired to the dash and if the wires cross anywhere and so forth.Then go rip out what I need out of the junkyard,and start replacing it,wire by wire.This is truly gonna suck cause the dash really doesnt go back together after it comes apart.I'm thinking of finding one with good wiring and ripping everything out of mine.I also cant find the honda seal for the thermostat anyway,so I didnt buy it.I dont know who to believe anymore,because everyone keeps saying,"No that couldnt be it, cause it wouldnt run for 5 minutes and then shut the car off"....no matter if they are talking about the fuel system,the thermostat,the vacuum lines or the electrical,lol.
Last edited by NeoCloud; 12-06-2004 at 04:28 PM.
Seems like u talking to 100 mechanics who never seen a 3geez before!
There is nothing wrong coolant related. Nor electrical, otherwise why the engine is running 5min at high revs.
Also fuel system is ok, same logic. Leave thermovalves alone, they doing what they suppose to do. and yes 17 sucks air, is a air bleed line used in many of the vacuum systems around the engine.
By ur description ur choke is perfect, running the high idle show for 5min, but after that the idle system on carb is suppose to take over.. Well obviously there is something wrong with it.
U said u checked the cut-off solenoid valve, the one attached @ back of carb. How? If in doubt just take it off and plug the hole, see if u get ur idle back.
Dont plug every vacuum port @ carb unless u know what u r doing. I said plug the port where jet controller line "B" goes, b/c seems to go to idle passages (see pic), maybe something wrong with jet controller ?!
Also for testing, plug the big vacuum suckers: PCV, EGR and brake booster..
A20A1, yes my manual, a lil diff than Paul's.
Sorry guys for such a big pic, it was ok on my browser tho..
Last edited by DanG86LX; 12-06-2004 at 09:12 PM.
Thanks Dan,Merry Christmas to all,I can't figure it out,it probably is the carb cause I showed my mechanic (friend) the solenoid and he said once again,"that wouldn't shut the car off after 5 minutes of running" and that it was fine,cause it does look new and was probably replaced less than a year ago before I got the car.I dont know what to do with it anymore,it still runs for 5 minutes and shuts off with about 5 or 6 turn over clunks and a sputter of the carb near the choke plate spitting out a tiny bit of vaporized gas.Then If you try to start it again it wont for about a minute or two.Then when u do get it started,it clunks the same way for only about one or two turn overs.If you let it sit for 5-10 minutes,it starts normally and doesnt rev up,it sits at 1,000 rpm and will run for 5 more minutes the second time.I am about to give up anyway and throw on a new carb or efi kit,wire harnesses for the dash and everything and probably new relays and sensors if I can find them.Or I will give up and no longer be a 3geezer,lol.Merry Christmas,Happy Chaunakha....or whatever the hell your religion is,get drunk and play with toys that you dont deserve,lol.
I suggested that from the get-go to re-build the carburetor. You would be suprised what a difference it makes. The thing is, you need to be carefull & do it right.
Happy X-mas BTW too. :alc:
.
You can use this FRAM filer, the pic shows the size of the filter in relation to its packaging... the part number on the box isn't real... I think it was used for a demostration peice.Originally Posted by NeoCloud
I would be careful if you decide on getting a pressure regulator... some will cause fuel lock out and drain the float bowl... but they are nice cause they give you this crazy boost before it decides to cut the fuel... so it's like this love hate thing.If you upgrade the pump be careful cause our carbs use low psi... I'd think you're safe with about 3.5 psi... few regulators go that low... and fewer performance pumps put out that kind of pressure.
Thats normal in some situations. The spitting could be from a slight diesel.
There are a few possibiliities when adjusting the float screw... sometimes you have the float setting too high, but because of a weak fuel system fuel never fills the bowl fast enough for the level to drop in the float window.
The other posibility is that the Float screw is leaking and the float setting is too low... this means your float will fill up because of the leak and doesn't stop when the float seals the fuel passage it just leaks thru the seals and fills up the bowl to the normal level.
In both cases you have a improper float adjustment but it doesn't seem that way cause the fuel is in the middle of the sight glass.
Just a thought.
I agree a rebuild would eliminate a lot of potential carb problems.I suggested that from the get-go to re-build the carburetor. You would be suprised what a difference it makes. The thing is, you need to be carefull & do it right.
Happy X-mas BTW too. :alc:
Last edited by A20A1; 12-14-2004 at 01:03 PM.
- llia
I didnt think I would get to post untill after Christmas due to my work shedule and having to get a ride to work,lol.I give up on my car,the vacuum lines are so old they are cracking and flattening,the wire harness in the dash is fried all the way up to the firewall and the fuse box,but suprisingly still works,lol and the body has rusted before both rear tires,the hangers for exhaust,brake lines and others and in places under the car.I just want to have it as a parts car or junk it after I rip it apart.I actually squeezed enough time out of my crappy ass life to find other hatchy's for sale that arent rusted out and are in pretty good condition for around 1,000 to 1,800.If any of you guys know of any close or around West Palm Beach or whatever give me a holla.I seen one on the site for 1,250 and he was gonna try and drive it down here from somewhere for someone else,dammit,Im tired as hell,lol.I forgot who,I can't find the thread, plus I really am running out of time allready,lol.If I ever remember,I will come back and fix this post.
Last edited by NeoCloud; 12-22-2004 at 06:08 PM.
Well my car still sits out front waiting for its demise and last walk of its life,to the junkyard.I am going to rip out the engine and anything else I feel valuable that might work on another accord, when I get one.If there is anything of value I could use on my next car that I dont know about,plz hit me back.thnks.-Update fixed car,nevermind this message now,lol.
Last edited by NeoCloud; 06-06-2005 at 03:44 PM.
Here is a new one to me and I am basically baffled...
1rst gear engine will rev to 5K no problem. Some times will cut out at about 4750 but not too often.
2nd gear engine starts to cut out and die at 3500 to 4000
3rd gear engine cuts out at 2500 to 3000
4th gear cuts out out at 2000 to 2500
5th gear 2000 or less sometimes...
40 to 50 mph seems to be the common factor... It is worse when it is raining. checked plugs, cap, rotor, and float levels out all look OK. Also this is with a full tank of gas. and When it dies it will jerk you down the road but if you push in the clutch it returns to idle and idles fine.
This was an seldom thing and now it is always...
All of the carb mods have been done except the choke and mechanical secondary.
I Hope someone can help with this one.
Last edited by kilgorq; 05-20-2005 at 02:20 PM.
97 LX carb... do you meen 87 LX carb?
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
Yes fat fingered that one... Sorry.
I think the common denominator is engine load, or vacuum. Not max or min, but somewhere in between. The rain part suggests a high-voltage ignition problem, like wires. So at that point, demands on the spark must be highest. Try misting everything--coil, wires, dist.--at idle when dark, looking for sparks. May have to replace coil and igniter if all else electrical tests OK.
Last edited by joebeets; 05-20-2005 at 02:50 PM.
The car is starving for fuel
fuel line blockage, fuel filter, or pump
( my $ is on the filters)
Eric
3geez member since October 12, 2000
"All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau
Check the booster venturies as well, make sure they do not move at all.
- llia
It finally stopped raining and the problem went away. I just went through and replaced the fuel pump, carb, and all of the filters less than 2 months ago. I am almost positive that has to do with high humidity... (Correct me if I am wrong) The first couple of days after it stopped raining it was still showing the problem in third and fourth at higher RPM's and now it is not showing it at all. The air is a lot dry now than it was then. I looked for sparks in the dark from the ignition system and did not find anything there either.
What and where are such things? What do they do also?
They are nice and tight. I also double checked the float level and fuel flow and they both looked good... My initial thought was that it was running out of fuel. and while that is still a possibility I am Thinking probably the ignition system. Unless I have something strange going on with the fuel pump when humidity is high. Which to me just does not make much sense because it sits in gas all of the time.
a booster venturi--a venturi positioned in the center of the main venturi in your carb.
yeah water in the tank will have a similar effect to running lean, pour some rubbing alcohol in the tank if it keeps happening, it's supposed to blend the water and fuel to burn or make the water evaporate, whatever.
Eric
3geez member since October 12, 2000
"All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau
After all of the confusion(and a very long time since last post,about 6 months.) you guys would not believe what the whole problem was in the 1st place,if u guessed carb,you are wrong(and so am I).It was the distrubutor not supplying spark after it gets hot or carbon build-up.I took off the dist.,and cleaned around everything a little with just a cloth,then replaced it and to my surprise,the car did not shut off after 5 minutes like it always did.I went and bought a new dist.cap and plugs,and now it never misses,and runs excellent...after so freakin long it was the smallest thing I didn't see.I also replaced the fuel pump because I noticed no gas in float on carb,but that was before I got the dist.cap.I can not believe it,and I am soooo glad I didn't junk the car,as the motor runs like a champ,and I have also found out it has a different cam than what came in the car,I have no idea what it is,but the mechanic said after taking apart my oil pan and going all the way up underneath it,that the cam(shaft) has different lobes or something than what is supposed to be in there.I just cant believe it runs again,and my friends now say,THE SHITBOX LIVES AGAIN!!!!.I want to thank all of you for helping,even though you guys didn't know the real problem.Thanks again,as I will be ripping every corner hard in it untill it dies again,lol.I beg of you guys to please move this thread to where it will be usefull. -Update.I replaced too many things to list,but the one thing that made a difference today was a K&N short ram I took off my friends car at a junkyard his dad owns.It was a carburated LXi that he modified the K&N short ram from.I slapped it on in double quick time after doing many more things like spark plugs and wires,tires and exhaust(striaght pipe modified),and to my surprise ran a 14.7 in the quarter mile.I almost shit my pants just now,and I will leave you thinking about how long it took me to fix this car,considering it was just a distrubutor that kept it from running that time,for an extremley long time(6 months approx.).
Last edited by NeoCloud; 06-05-2005 at 03:53 PM.
Phh,my head just exploded. glad you got it fixed.
- llia
I just have to ask,how the hell was the distributor cap shutting off the car after it got hot after 5 minutes,I found that quite mind-boggling.I have done almost everything you guys said to the carb with a rebiuld kit and spare parts from another carb,and now it chokes and opens and closes fine.It had a weak spring that was rusted out for the choke top plate,but thats not what was shutting off car after it got hot,cause I found out by jamming the plate open.I thank you again A20 for that info.-Cleans up A20's brains off floor and stuff's them back into crainum(lol).
Last edited by NeoCloud; 06-06-2005 at 06:48 AM.
I'm not sure why...
There are plenty of things going on 5 mnuets into the warmup depending on the outside temp.
Maybe it has to do with resistance or the fuel mixture or both.
5 minuets in and things are starting or already hot. Heat add resistance and so it was harder to get spark maybe.
I know you found carbon but also the oil in the head could leak into the distibutor if you have a bad distributor o-ring.
Depending on the conditions, you have the cold start fast idle on the carb kicking off or down one knotch so maybe the lowered rpms were too low to run under the conditions of your distributor.
As the car warms up your vacuum advance #25 starts to sut off which also begins to lower the rpm of the car.
The higher rpm durring fast idle and #25 vacuum advance could have aided the car and kept it running since the alternator puts out more power or the power is at least more stable with higher revs.
If the distributor cap seal was bad moisture could have gotten in.
Or simply the cap formed too much deposits from not making good contact to fire
- llia
The last suggestion is the one every1 I talked to said it was.Please move this thread and rename it where it will be usefull,if you guys see it fit,because this problem has made me a very bitter man untill I fixed it,lol.I think it was a combination of oil and carbon buildup in distributor,along with the other things you said,but nothing to do with fuel,as I have replaced every line and filter and the pump,and tweaked carb sight glass.The fuel pump did stop working,because the filter was black,but that had a minimal impact with the distributor not working properly,but also the combination of both could have been the problem,I believe.You have pinned the advance #25 right on the head,because I did check it by unplugging it when the car was running,and allthough it did not shut off,it idled down alot,causing my carb to spit fuel out a little untill it did shut off.Everything I have mentioned was done before I even thought about checking the stupid distributor,and my instincts,lol.I also have one last question maybe you guys answered allready.There is a stem coming off the bottom left side of the original air tray that is bigger than any of the other ones on there for a vacuum line and I forgot where it goes.-Note:I have done everything to the car in this post that I said I would carb,filters,fuel related components,wire harness(I am still in the process of making one out of really good wire)tires,everything to do with spark,interior,sound,exhaust,re-building body panels by tack welding plates of sheet and so-on.Do I qualify for either being obsessed with my car or a 3geezer yet?lol,j/k.
Last edited by NeoCloud; 06-06-2005 at 03:51 PM.
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