left side is #16 vacuum hose. Although it is not labled...
Or do you mean the stem below the inlet for the air box... and it;s located below a diaphragm... if so this is where you should connect the pre-heater hose. It's a fiber like hose that clamps from the air box to the heat sheild to pick up hot air as part of the preheating.
- llia
Yes,the vacuum hose,not the heater hose that we don't need in the summertime for preheating in Florida,lol.What kind of vacuum line goes from by the carb #16 to the bottom of air tray where I said...is it different sizes on each end or something,cause I connected #16 from by the carb to the rear left side stem of tray.The stem I cant figure out is kind of poking out left and more to the front of the car and tray than the one I connected #16 to.It is also bigger than any of the /32 size vacuum lines.
Last edited by NeoCloud; 06-07-2005 at 08:04 AM.
https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=38108
in the vacuum diagram it goes from the green colored valve to the bottom of the air box.
- llia
-Update,just wrecked into a ditch after the hood flew up and bent to the shape of the window.The window survived,with just a small crack below the wiper.I am ok,got jarred into the roof with my head pretty hard,and hit my bad shoulder into the door.I inspected the hood latch and bracket and noticed 2 screws missing from it,but I don't think that was the complete cause.I saw the corner of the right windshield corner bracket lift up 1st when the hood came back over the windshield.When I looked at it,the hole that wraps around the pivot rivet was ripped open on the hood.The rivet and the bracket are fine,but the hood lifted right there when it came up,then unlatched itself from the vibrating main latch under the front of the hood,I believe.My alternator has also went,but I just now noticed it,as the battery cable came off during my hood flipping adventure,or maybe it was off before the hodd came open.Anyway,I think its the alternator,cause when it came off the positve post,the car shut off after about 10 seconds.I need to look at how-to threads all over again to figure out how to get the belt and brackets off for the alternator.I lost the line that goes from the white thing(forgot name) to line the 5/16 size air tray hook up.The car revs from 1,500 to 3,250 and gets stuck sometimes at 3,250.I have pulled the two screws and throttle stop all the way backed out on the carb,does nothing,same revs,same everything.I think the throttle cable might be sticking OR,one of my friends said the bad alternator might be making it rev and get stuck,or something related in someway,somehow,I don't know.thanks A20 for that info I found from that link to thread.-I can't find a how-to remove the alternator.Could you guys just tell me if you have to take the battery cables off or anything special like the belts or if I might be missing a tensioner nut on the bracket next to the alternator?
Last edited by NeoCloud; 06-14-2005 at 06:00 AM.
use dry gas like gas line antifreeze rubbing alchol is 50 percent waterOriginally Posted by POS carb
did you know there is a sensor under the drivers side fender that senses barometric pressure? mine likes to act up too somtimes have got to check into it. thats where all those vacuume hoses that disappear into the fender go
when I still had all the stock emmissions crap I never messed with that. The altitude compensation is handled by the Air Jet Controller by the torque rod engine mount. It has 3 lines labled "A""B""C". Moving the screw in leans out the setting
Eric
3geez member since October 12, 2000
"All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau
Finally got the alternator in by filing the bottom of it where the hole meets the bracket because there was a burred kinda excess metal on the outside of the hole.I accidentally left the battery cable(positive side)off for a week and my battery is dead.I am charging it before I try to start the car because I think thats what your supposed to do.I really hope this fixes it,but I am unsure because it was chugging low idle really bad before the alt. went.I thought it might be the alt. because on my other cars,it did the same thing when it goes.They would chug low like there wasnt enough spark to ignite the gas or something like that.I think it might be the coil but I am not sure.I severley need to get my plugs changed again,because I think it was missing on a cylinder or two before everything happened.-Update,the car is alive and runs kinda chuggy,there is also a loud ass squeak when I turn the lights on or press the brake unless I have the idle up to about 2grand.This might be from the denso labeled vacuum hose that goes to it is off and broke.Also the chugging doesnt occur untill revs are to 5grand when fully heated.All fluids are at normal levels and everthing else checks out fine.Please reply you guys with something for me.
Last edited by NeoCloud; 06-22-2005 at 06:38 PM.
yea some of the diagrams show it and some don't even my underhood decal doesn't show it but the hoses leading to under the fender are there. sometimes if you spill power steering fluid pr have a leak it will eat up those hoses they run right under the resevoir. my book shows it being there
I Solved the problem with mine. I Replaced the cap rotor and cleaned and it has cleared up. Sorry for the delay on an update. I Wound up wait another project car. 85' Lude. Lokking for parts for it if anyone has some.
-Update,got car running,but I need vacumm lines.I need the one that goes to the white thingy on the left side of carb to the air tray,I think it is 5/16 size?also I need a couple other lines,I think they are #28 or #23,and line 11.I think they are size 5/32?It runs really good now,but after about 4 or 5 grand in revs or when the secondary front carb plate opens,the motor starts backfiring and missing sounding,maybe from the vacumm lines,I dunno,please answer with anything.
First off I think we or at least I deserve a kick in the behind for not suggesting the distributor cap and rotor first, seing as it's a simple thing to check.
I'm unsure on the vacuum line sizes, I know 5/32 is the majority of the vacuum lines, and I beleive 3/8 was another one. I'm not sure what was 5/16 but it's inbetween the two... may be good to buy if the other two don't work out.
Don't mind my random thoughts:
5/16 is probably the size of the vacuum port near the fuel bowl window tapping into venturi vacuum of the primary barrel. Also the Fuel line size is 1/4 and 5/16 right? cause the stock filter has two nipple sizes... I dunno I'm just trying to think where 5/16 comes in.
I'm kinda stuck at the moments as to why you're backfiring when the secondary opens... I'll have to go over what you'v already checked in previous posts tomorrow to respond with any help.
- llia
I finally got everything,every line,vacumm cylenoids/relays(I dunno what theyre called,niether does the junkyard so they charged me 4 dollars for every one of them and called them vacumm canisters,which is wrong,there are three of them)I think I figured out the backfiring problem.Some1 suggested compression is too high because of the cam and straight exaust pipe,and plugs and wires.I am going to try all of that,since the car is running fine now,considering I just hit about 55 in 2nd gear,lol.You name it,I probably replaced it so far on this car,engine bay wise and fuel pump and lines wise.I got the 5/16 air tray vacumm line,and the other three that connect to the air tray.I made a crappy CAI out of my stock intake tube by shoving it under the front right wheel well near the tranny and the battery,then lengthened it and slapped a cone filter on the end,also making sure the brake lines arent touching it,as I heard that is bad or something.I almost took off an old civic air tray so I can run my short ram Injen intake out of it,but I dont think the tubing is the same size or will fit.The backfiring is not so bad now after I fixed all the lines and put the air tray on.At least I dont have to throw everything into the prelude now,because this car is workable with,I hope.
Last edited by NeoCloud; 06-24-2005 at 07:24 AM.
I have an 88 lude,but I dunno what you can use on it.
Excellence through ghetto engineering and lots of carb cleaner.:-)LOL,POS. I thinking of using NGK V-Power plugs again,but I was wondering if the bosch's are better?Also some1 plz tell me which plug wires I should use(not autolite,lol)and if the wire lengths matter when changing them.The car runs awesome other than that stuff and maybe another oil change,so thank you guys.I also forgot to mention the wire harness that leads to the air conditioner control and to the deck inside is fried.If I plug the cd player in the back of it,my headlights start flipping,and wierd noises start occuring.I need to rewire everything,I am trying to anyway.I might just get another honda and do a motor transplant or something,I was gonna use the lude.Bu if it is possible to replace the dash wiring in this car,or whatever it is,I will just keep this one then.I dont plug in the cd player anymore,for I am scared its gonna start a fire or something,lol.
Last edited by NeoCloud; 06-26-2005 at 09:02 AM.
heh-just got a freakin plastic bag stuck to my exhaust,it came outta nowhere like it was meant to melt to my exhaust pipe,lol.
the ngk v power had a thread on here somewhere about those. the engine was designed to run on the vpower plug because of the lean mixture. honda engineers worked with ngk to find the best plug for this engine. the stock plug is the vpower. it should be on your hood decal. as far as plug wires i went through several sets of cheap plug wires finally got a set from nappa i think they are belden, they look and fit just like the oem wires.
Last edited by lostforawhile; 07-04-2005 at 05:34 AM.
whoever told you that your cam increased compression or your open exaust increased compression is full of s*** the only thing that will change compression is to change the rods,the pistons, or the head. all your exaust will do is help your motor run cooler by letting the exaust gasses escape eaisier. mine pops too thats because all those resonator chambers aren't in the exaust anymore to muffle the sound. thats why honda put all those there and such a big ass muffler. this motor design is just like a lot of those two litre race cars from the seventies and you know what they sounded like. it's a two litre overhead cam cross flow type cylnder head with two valves per cylinder with a relativly high compression ratio. not sure if they are all iron block i know mine is anyway, with aluminum head, and it's high rpm. thats why it's so loud with an open exaust. I've got mine up to 140+horsepower an my exaust is open from the manifold back to a cherry bomb. i even made a billet resonator tip so i could get that sound. drive between two buildings and it sounds like you are going down the straightaway at indy. i'm considering putting in an intercom system so i can talk to my wife without shouting.
I am not sure if they were stock,but I had Denso plugs in it before I changed them.
Well I wasnt being technical enough,I know,and I knew it wasnt the cam or the exhaust causing such high compression,Ill have to get another reading,I forgot what it was at.But I do have some sort of compression problem,Im not sure if it is too high,but I get this huge ass backfire sometimes when ovverreved to about 6 grand.It doesnt occur all the time,just once in a while.I think when the cam was done the rods were done too,I didnt get into the detail of that part.Also my fuel window on the carb is adjusted slightly above halfway,because it shut off once when I put it at half window one time.I cant figure it out,but the car runs awesome after I just changed the oil,plugs,wires,fuel filter,lines,pump,short ram injen,radiator,hoses,vacumm lines,and many more little things like the dist.cap was my whole problem in the 1st place.I am just worried about it burning out my plugs from burning too rich or any related causes.whoever told you that your cam increased compression or your open exaust increased compression is full of s*** the only thing that will change compression is to change the rods,the pistons, or the head. all your exaust will do is help your motor run cooler by letting the exaust gasses escape eaisier. mine pops too thats because all those resonator chambers aren't in the exaust anymore to muffle the sound. thats why honda put all those there and such a big ass muffler. this motor design is just like a lot of those two litre race cars from the seventies and you know what they sounded like. it's a two litre overhead cam cross flow type cylnder head with two valves per cylinder with a relativly high compression ratio. not sure if they are all iron block i know mine is anyway, with aluminum head, and it's high rpm. thats why it's so loud with an open exaust. I've got mine up to 140+horsepower an my exaust is open from the manifold back to a cherry bomb. i even made a billet resonator tip so i could get that sound. drive between two buildings and it sounds like you are going down the straightaway at indy. i'm considering putting in an intercom system so i can talk to my wife without shouting.
hey guys,my car shut off again,it runs for 15 minutes and shuts off sometimes but rarely chugging a little,but most of the time just shuts off with no hesitation or its something anything sounding bad.The only thing that I havent replaced is the fuel filter and the coil,which are the only things everyone thinks is the problem.Another friend something like variuos sensors like the o2 sensor or something.Just help me with your godly wisdom of infinite honda parts and tell me that it is just a 4 dollar part or something like that.
Check and double check the stator reluctor gap.
Also make sure the solenoid at the back of the carb works... I dunno what else to say.
Clean battery terminals... bleh
I wish I had my spare coil to give you...
Why haven't you replaced the fuel filter... I bypassed the rear filter and hooked up a good filter in the engine bay. If you're stingy for money do it that way.
- llia
I am finally back online for a little while after my move,and it is nice to see this site and you guys and your last post I never got to see A20,lol.I wish I could tell you that the car is still running after fixing it with a fuel pump and a couple other things,but the main problem was the alternator,so I replaced that,took me a while with your guys help to roll it around the engine bay.Then I drove it 200 miles and got to the other side of florida with it in Port Charlotte.Then it died,2 days after I got here,I was driving going about 55mph and it stalled,so I threw it in 3rd gear and roll jump-started it 8 times and miraculously made it home.I let it run idle in my driveway countless numers of times untill it shuts off at different time intervals every time,there is no shutting off pattern to it this time.Then eventually it wouldnt start at all,but cranks over just fine.At first I thought it was fuel,but I am pretty sure it is the module in the distributor because it is the last thing on the car I havent replaced spark wise.Or at least I think,if you guys know of anything else besides the wires,coil,plugs,alternator(the list doesnt go much further than that for spark)battery...etc,lemme know if theres something I am missing.I took off the fuel line to the carb and it shoots gas pretty far,so I know it cant be a fuel problem.I had 5 people of experts and mechanics tell me its not fuel.The bill at the shop is 353 dollars for a new distributor with labor cost and everything,and I feel ripped off by my car,lol.And where and what the hell is the stator reluctor cap?
Last edited by NeoCloud; 09-14-2005 at 08:21 AM.
I am thinking of trying to sell the car for 900 (US)Dollars...the catch is the distributor,so it is actually worth about 600 to me now to sell.I will try to post pics and defects descriptions soon,but it will be a little while.I don't know anyone that wants it yet,but a buddy wants to throw a H22 in it and rag it out on the track till it dies.If any of you guys know anyone lemme know,beacause I don't know if it is worth saving or selling.I would do anything to fix it if you guys can get me a cheap working distributor that you got lying around.I will do anything dammit!lol.
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