Car revs to 4000 by itself!

[Zerex]

Hi guys I'm new to import cars and I have a carbed 89 Accord LX 5 speed. I love the car but now that's its gotten cooler here I'm running into an annoying problem. Every morning for atleast the 1st 20 mins of my commute the car seems possessed by Satan. It'll be running fine and I'll pull up to a light with the clutch in (or car in neutral) and all of a sudden the car will rev to 4000-4500rpm by itself. Sometimes it'll drop back down by itself and sometimes it'll still there. I can also feel the car do this while in gear cause i'll have my foot off the gas and it'll still be accelerating like an Indy car. I've tried carb cleaner and checked for vacuum leaks but I'm stumped. I'm sure someone here knows what the problem is.
Any help would be appreciated
Thanx

[A20A1]

hmm you might want to make sure your air bleed valves are not stuck open...

also you want to check your coolant... make sure it's full and is the right mixture of water and coolant for the winter conditions

The air bleed valve has a metal cover that snaps over the actual valve... the valve itself is basicly a metal strip that deforms as the temperature changes...

It has a ceramic looking bubble on top of the metal strip and a rubber cap on the bottom that fits over and seals the valve opening.

[Zerex]

hmm you might want to make sure your air bleed valves are not stuck open...

also you want to check your coolant... make sure it's full and is the right mixture of water and coolant for the winter conditions

The air bleed valve has a metal cover that snaps over the actual valve... the valve itself is basicly a metal strip that deforms as the temperature changes...

It has a ceramic looking bubble on top of the metal strip and a rubber cap on the bottom that fits over and seals the valve opening.

Thanx, I'll check the air bleed.
I'm curious how the wrong mix of coolant would cause the engine to rev to 4000rpm on it's own
Anyone else or is my car possessed

[Dutchboy]

the coolant would controls the emmsions solenoids and all other engine functiions depending on coolant temperature....but i doubt that its your problem..
i have the same thing happen to me ever so often...mine actually does it if i shut the car down and then restart it warm again...stays at like 3500 for a while...annoying as heck it is..
i know it all has to do with the choke and fast idle but havent had time to fiddle with it as yet...only does it more now that its cold like you said....

try this....when its doing this high idle thing to you pull the top air cleaner lid off..then see if the choke is all the way open...if not hold the choke open all the way by hand and blip the throttle ( if theres noone to hit the gas for you just pull up on the throttle cable and it should be enough to kick it down to speed) if this stops the high idling then its probably the choke not opening all the way... just know that it willl start again once you hit the gas just to piss you off....

i find that my choke idles higher when its warmer out then when its cold...i know that the choke is supposed to go up to about 2500-3000 but not to 3500-4500 like your getting and i get when its warm and then i start it..

sorry long post but this is helping me get in the mood to fix the problem once and for all....now to find time to do that between 2 jobs..

post or pm me on wether this trick stops it or not..im going to try some things this weekend to try fix the high idle problem

[A20A1]

coolant controls the choke fast idle unloader and the choke puller in a way.

[accordlxi2.0]

ummm . . ..
sounds like a gas pedal problem.
in mines the rpm's reached at least 3,000rpms.
turns out that this lube thats around the cable and t/b would get sticky and hold the cable.
so i losened the cable up some that worked for me....
try this once it starts doing that pul on the gas pedal and if the rpms drop thats your problem.

i think the only thing the the ecu box would control is the secondary, but it'll rev way pass 4500rpms . . . . .

[Magny]

what about the throttle stop screw in the back, cause I accidently played around with mine not knowing what it was, and got it to kick up high to 5k and stay there until I screwed it back out to a lower idle.

[Zerex]

what about the throttle stop screw in the back, cause I accidently played around with mine not knowing what it was, and got it to kick up high to 5k and stay there until I screwed it back out to a lower idle.

I doubt this cuz i havnt touched the carb at all. I let the car warm up for 10 mins and the idles around 1800rpm, i drive and i can feel the car want to accelerate on it's own. I stop at a light, push the clutch in rpms are at 2000 for a couple of seconds then all of a sudden the car just revs up to 4000rpm. Nothing i do can get it to come back down, it just does it on it's own, sometimes after 10 secs sometimes after 30.
It's driving me nutz
Tommorrow i'm gunna tear into it. Could it be sum sort of vaccum problem causing the secondaries to open on their own?

[A20A1]

you don't accidentaly play around with adjustment screw.

[Zerex]

Well, I found the problem.
After trying everything suggested and not fixing it, I decided to go back to square 1. So after checking all the vacuum lines to the carb I found 1 hidden at the back under other lines that was disconnected. I hooked it back up and for the last 5 days its run like a champ.
Thanx for the input
Hope this helps someone in the future
Jason

[Honda77]

My car was doing the same thing and I have to agree with Dutchboy. I took off the lid to my air cleaner and the screen that covers the chokeplates and placed a small block in between to force the choke to stay open. Then I was able to drive the car aroung normal until it was warmed up. I then took out the block after it was warmed up completly and noticed the choke plates would stay open. If you do it to soon then after you remove the block the idle will shoot back up as soon as you hit the gas pedal.

[Magny]

you don't accidentaly play around with adjustment screw.

yeah you can, being a dork and not knowing what it is for LOL