first thing first, check the fuel pressure. make sure it is with in specs.
second, check the O2 sensor, they are known to go bad without giving the code.
third, check the coolant level.
Acceleration , starting problems
first thing first, check the fuel pressure. make sure it is with in specs.
second, check the O2 sensor, they are known to go bad without giving the code.
third, check the coolant level.
Alex.
Could be ignition... go over the wires from the battery and alt... make sure the connections are clean and tight. If the wire is bad replace it. I have a weak battery/alt giving me a simmilar accel problem... since the pump, intectors and, ignition all runs of electricity you can see how it would create problems. once I get moving and the alt puts out more charge my car runs better but if I turn on A/C fans or lights it drains some power and I'm back where I started.
also check you ignition wires.
Does the starter turn?
- Fuse
- Main Relay
(look at my post above) Did you check the battery?
Last edited by A20A1; 11-27-2005 at 06:43 PM.
- llia
I would also check my Distributor take off the cap and look inside for a reddish colored dust also spin the rotor does it make a grinding noise or a funny sound like there are rocks bouncing around inside the distributor also i would check to see if the vacuum advance is working properly on the distributor
I guess I could add maybe trying to replace the coil.
I agree with what everyone else wrote.
This could be a tricky one miss's are hard to pick out.
There a few electronic things that help with the spark could be going bad but what sucks is they gotta croak before you can really diagnose them. If you have a manual you can go thru all the sensors with a multimeter and see if some thing is a miss. If you dont have a manual goto the library ans copy what you need.
wp
You can make a jumper wire to jump the 2 post to make it run. Dont keep it that way but its a good way to test a main relay. If its got water in it its prolly bad.
Just to pick a little mine is under the dash by my left foot I dont think its under the hood? Im fact I keep it loose so I can jump it out if it every goes bad again.
wp
Ok so now car does not start at all?Originally Posted by 3gn86lxi
If you have spark and your have fuel and the timing is close your on not much else to it.
EGR nothing to do with it will run without. I cut the tube to mine and plugged it years ago
Map sensor ran mine a day unplugged by mistake got a code but it ran same no differance. MAP is only read 1-5500k rpms on our cars or unless you goto 100% throttle nothing to do with idle unless there's a vacuum leak.
How are you verifing you have spark and more importantly how do you know you have fuel to the cylinders?
wp
Last edited by A20A1; 11-27-2005 at 06:46 PM.
Could be fouled plug(s). Also make sure to reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery, you probably did but since you didn't mention it I figured I would suggest it.
75 Malibu for sale, fully restored, $5,500 obo
https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=43055
Currently driving a 95 LS soon to be turbo integra.
Well, since you don't know if your getting spark, you can take off one spark plug out and have someone see if it is arcing across the plug. Not sure if you have a digital multimeter or test light, but if you do, check your relays and fuses for power across the fuse & relays. Sounds like there is some power not getting to something. If you can't find out what is going on, have you brother in-law check it out.
If you car is carbureted, you can look down the carb & see a squirt of gas going into the intake. Check all the fuses & relays, might have to let the brother in law check it out too before you junk it. :alc:
Yeah, it might be a sensor. There are 2 types, pasive and active sensors. A passive sensor varies internal resistance & operating conditions. Common passive sensors are Intake air temp., coolant temp.,throttle position, mass airflow sensor, fuel tank pressure sensor, etc.
Active sensors or voltage operating sensors, produce a very weak internal voltage which is sent to the computer for analysis. Typical sensors include: Oxygen sensors, Engine speed sensors, Camshaft, Crankshaft, Vehicle speed, Knock sensors.
To test a passive sensor, either measure its internal resistance with an ohmeter or measure the voltage drop across the sensor with its reference voltage applied. You basically need a digital meter to perform this test & need specifications.
The active sensor produces its own voltage & sends it back to the computer. There are several ways to test an active sensor. You need a top hat wire tap to dig into the wires by the sensor to perform digital multimeter reading. The digital meter readings will needed to compared to specifications. Most of these test are done with the key off then turn on with the motor running to check readings. :alc:
I was going to edit my post and suggest a MAP (manifold absolute Pressure sensor) but nappyroots beat me to it. I don't know where excatly it is but is on the intake manifold.
Good luck with it 3gn86lxi and let us know how it is going. Untill then just drink a beer!!:alc:
I don't know where you can find a MAP sensor. But this site has dealer parts at resonable price from compaired to my local Honda Dealership. You have to see if they have what your looking for, I couldn't find it. But that may be cause I have been drinking a few to many.... http://www.slhondaparts.com/browse.a...LXI&TransLevel
It seems like the connection is lose somewhere near the relay. The car won't run if it was blown. Use the digital milimeter and test the lead off the relay before and after it starts to run like "crap", see if the voltage is different or what is going on with it. The relay is just a contact that closes and gives a limited amout of voltage to the circuit being applied. The MAP sensor might need re-placed, but elimate the cause of it running good & not running good first before you make your next move.
Relays aren't to expensive, so don't even try to mess with the trouble of testing it and get a new one. Do check & make sure the connections are good to the relay. Loose connections are alot of electrical problems.
Man 3gn86lxi, your having all kinds of problems getting that car running right.
I don't know exactly what kind of ecu our cars have off the top of my head, but on some cars you can disconnect the battery for 10 minutes or so and it will erase the memory. In most cars in our age bracket would have PROM (programmable read only memory). Most newer cars have EEPROM.
Have you tested your coil yet? Do check for spark at the spark plugs & fuel reaching the injectors & if the pressure is good, then move towards the ecu as the relavent problem.
On some cars the MAP sensor effects the timing a little at passing speeds, but I didn't think that would effect it not starting. I've seen some more newer cars not wanting to run right when it didn't work properly.
There is some voltages you can test off the ecu leads going to it and back off it, but that would require alot of technical jargon like various voltage specifications & a wiring schematic. (which would be more a headache than it would be worth)
Your correct, not enough fuel pressure will not make the car run right if any at all. Maybe you can see what kind of pressure it has at that releif valve you popped open if you crank it over a little, wrap a rag around it. You really need a fuel pressure guage testing apperatice to get the right specs & tap in on your fuel rail to get an accurate reading.
I have heard of & seen a clogged catylitic converter keeping a car from not running with all it's power. Here is some specs for the pressure measurements.
Fuel pressure: 33-39psi (efi), 2.6-3.3psi (carb)
Fuel pump displacement: 230cc/min (in 10 sec)
Relief valve opening pressure: 64 – 85 psi
Fuel Pressure Regulator: 33-39psi
Fuel tank capacity: 15.9 Gal
Fast Idle: 1000 – 1800 rpm (efi); 2000 – 3000 rpm (carb)
Idle (Normal): 750 – 800 rpm
*edit* I forgot to mention that the O2 sensor is on there tight, REAL TIGHT. Anyway, sure your brother-in-law knows what to do to get if off.
Most likely needs a torch to break it off. I hate to hear you got the MAP sensor and it didn't work, I was wondering if it would be the problem, but you & nappyroots was pointing in that direction & I went with it cause I was thinking it might be a problem but wasn't sure if it would be the problem.
Hope Kelly helps you out, let us know how it works out for you cause I'm curious to know what happened. Happy New Year ! :alc:
Last edited by A20A1; 11-27-2005 at 06:43 PM.
.
It could be the main relay I guess. When it's turning over, hit the lower dash area by the fuse box a few times. Nice and hard. Not only does it help vent anger, but if the car starts it's probably the main relay again. This is the technical way to test the main relay
Kitsap Auto Wrecking on mile hill didn't have any 3geez last time i called. Horseshoe Lake Auto Wrecking had one 3g when I called a few weeks ago. Let's see, there's one in Shelton that had a couple 3g's. There was a closer one that had a couple too, I think it was the belfair one? Anyways, I just whipped out the phone book and called all the junkyards as far away as shelton and silverdale and some of them did have some 3g's. I'd try the one over at Horseshoe Lake auto wrecking, I was calling around to try and get quotes on headlight assemblies and they were the cheapest, even though I didn't end up getting one from a junkyard. Good luck man!
Awesome! I'm surprised the ECU wasn't throwing a coolant temp sensor code. In auto shop someone bumped mine loose and the ECU threw a coolant temp sensor code.
Last edited by A20A1; 11-27-2005 at 06:44 PM.
crazy my 86 lxi is doing the same exact thing. i have another complete motor but it is seized so i pulled off the egr and cleaned it really good and i am going to swap them tomarow i have also put a new cap and rotor with new ngk's and it still does it i havent checked for codes yet
my 86 lxi is doing the same thing. I was thinking it was my egr so i pulled the one off of my other intake manifold and cleaned it up real good and im also going to change my o2 sensor. It is running so bad i hope that this helps
Last edited by A20A1; 11-27-2005 at 06:45 PM.
my guess is it would be the map sensor, or manifold absolute pressure sensor...this sensor "senses" the barometric pressure in your intake manifold, it takes the pressure and sends a signal to your computer telling it how much input, and when you start your car or push the gas its causing a dramatic change in pressure in your intake manifold from the engine requiring much more air in a short amount of time...and if your sensor is bad, it won't sense this dramatic change and will deny the cylinder of the necessary fuel to make it fire efficiently...im just going by my past experiences, but i would say this would be your problem so i would go to the junkyard and badonk yourself a map sensor, haha, while your at it, u might as well get one from a 4g since they work better, and also, double check all your vacuum lines...let us know how the car is running
sorry about takin so long to get back to ya, glad to hear u got it workin for the most part, id definately replace that relay if its causing you problems...As for the MAP sensor, if you are still going to do it, it is located in the black box under your hood by the left strut tower (facing the car). open it up and unscrew the metal piece covering all the sensors and such...its screwed into the bracket with all the other sensors and i can't remember off the top of my head what the vacuum number is, but it only has one vacuum line and it has 3 wires coming out of it, its a little black thing about an inch wide and long...anyways, the 4g map sensor is plug and play, basically just splice it in, i haven't really had the experience from going from 3g map to 4g map, i did the 4g sensor with my efi so i didn't notice if there was a difference or not, but everyone says it helps nicely around 2-3 thousand rpms, good luck!
the ecu can prevent you from getting spark...i had the spark from the coil wire jump from the wire to the chassis before and it blew a fuse in my box, so i replaced the fuse and my starter turned over but no start...so i scratched my ass for a few days and just decided to reset the ecu and voila! it worked...so there is a possibility for your ecu to be bad, but thats not something to usually just go..id check your ignitor and stator in your dizzy, but first verify if your getting spark at the plugs, and if no, check those two, you can check those things with a manual and a multimeter...if there bad it will cause no spark, but def. find out if your getting spark at each plug
Last edited by A20A1; 11-27-2005 at 06:45 PM.
if junkyards didn't exist, neither would my car...
Wasup gentlemen...
It started this morning, my car had developed a slight miss the last couple of weeks. Didn’t think much of it, replaced the fuel filter. Didn’t help, and then at low rpm's when I hit the gas to go....it's almost like its flooding out and wont accelerate. I can put the clutch in and get the RPM up, and it will idle, but anytime I hit the gas, it will totally stumble until it dies??
HELP....has anyone had this problem? Any ideas on what it could be. I put a cap and rotor on thinking it could be ignition problems, that didn’t help either. It' an 86 LX-I btw, it’s not giving any codes, so I don’t know where to look now.
:alc: someone move this to tech section....I put it in wrong place! Oops.
Well I did replace the cap and rotor. The dizzy looks fine inside of it, my brother in law thinks it's the MAF sensor. An 86 doesn’t really have one, or it's called something else right?
The coil is fairly new, an Accel super stock one, maybe couple of months old, same with the plug wires.
He is going to check on his shops computer to make himself more familiar with the car and what could be wrong. He's a good mechanic so if I can't figure it out, he will work on it for me.
I actually haven’t since this started. I did reset everything when I got the EGR code, but not since this problem.
That is an idea......I will do that tomorrow, wouldn’t that be the shit if it fixes itself!!!!!
I think I'm gonna have a beer and ponder that! :alc:
It didn't work, now it won’t start at all!!!!!
Turns over, but doesn't act like it wants to kick and run. Not like a broke timing belt, but just won't start. I know it getting gas, I haven’t checked yet for spark, but I'm sure it's getting it.
It ran enough to get home from work Wednesday, but it sat since then. With Christmas I don't have much time!!! Battery is less than 6 months old, power is good, and I think there is a sensor somewhere that’s t/u.
Eh......If I can’t find it I take it to my bro in law. Or junk the pos!!!!
I put in a used main relay like beginning of summer, could it be, I donno at this point? :alc:
Yah, my lower dash is gone...so I have tried the "smacking it around trick". But the original problem still baffles me. Hit the gas to accelerate, and it totally bogs, and won’t do anything. Like I said… I donno.
And my brother said, don’t take it to the shop yet.
But he's famous for taking forever, and I'm not that patient!
I guess I’ve just become frustrated with the car overall, you know, a lot of little things going wrong with it.
Eh.... we will see what’s up with it first though. :alc:
It's a LX-I, Dereck… so there are a lot of BS sensors that could go out.
I do have a digital multimeter, so I can start to go though the sensors. I'm hoping that my bro will have an epiphany and be able to fix it rite quick!!
Once its running I will be happy, probably won't be till next week anyway.
It's just when your shit is broke, your pretty down on it, know what I mean??
Thanks ddude2uc for trying to help.
slipknotcraig133......I'll bet you won't have a code! Mine's not throwing one.
Nappy... Where is that sensor on our car? Manifold absolute pressure sensor, right? Junk yards round me don’t have 3geez! Parts are few and far between in this area. But that’s what Kelly thinks it is. How can I adapt a 4gee to my car? Is it plug-and-play? More info man, more info!!!!
But I think that’s the right direction.
O.K.
Its running, no codes, but still not right.
Could it possibly be the main relay??????? It totally would not start, then I messed with the plug on the relay, and it started. And the problem will go away for a while, then come back. I can also hold the relay and feel it working sometimes.
There is also evidence of water in there and corrosion inside the relay.
So.......is it possibly the problem???????
I ordered a new one, be in this afternoon. Bout 50 bucks!! Ouch.
But hopefully this will do it, if it doesn’t I will try a map sensor. I'll let you guys know tonight.
Didn't do it........on to the map sensor!
I will have a 4th GEN map sensor in a couple days, hopefully this will get it running. Tried to start it today, wont run now!@ DAMMIT!!
Went to the wrecking yard today, snagged a map sensor........put it in.....still wont run!
So here’s what I've confirmed;
- SPARK
- FUEL
- EGR
- MAP sensor,
- NEW MAIN RELAY ASSEMBLY
…and still does not start! Computer is not throwing any codes.
I don’t know what to do now.
Could the ECU be toast, would I still be getting spark it the computer was dead??
HELP!!!!!!!!
I know ddude2uc I'm having a hell of a time with my car. Kelly(my brother in law the mechanic) is coming over on Saturday with some of his stuff. So hopefully with his help we can get it going.
I'm sure it's going to be something simple because it has been running good. But something beyond my know-how anyways. But yea, I know I have spark, haven’t verified all cylinders, but I will. He will check fuel pressure, etc. He also questioned if my exhaust was working, i.e. clogged cat. I can smell fuel from the muffler when I try to start it, so I don’t think it’s clogged.
Anyway...I've got a new o2 sensor to put on also. Hopefully it will be going on Saturday, I'm getting tired of driving my truck!!! Its killing me on gas.
Thanks for all the input guys, I do appreciate it. Anymore ideas....let me know. :alc:
O.K. Here is a new scenario........ If the fuel pump was to be working slightly(not enough pressure) that would definitely cause it not to run, right.
When I put the fuel filter on, it released ALOT of gas, like it was very pressurized. I cracked the relief bolt on the filter......and it barely trickled out.
What you think, I'm beginning to think it’s a fuel problem now, I don't smell raw fuel through the exhaust anymore also. :alc:
Here is what we found out, the coolant temp sensor is out, which in tern is causing it to run rich. Very rich, it fouled every single plug! So no parts stores have that sensor, I'll replace that on Monday.
But I knew it would be something simple!!
Also we did a compression test and I've got 160 across all cylinders, bout 40 PSI fuel pressure.
So anyway, I'm happy, and thanks to everyone who tried to help!!!!
I appreciate it a lot.. :alc:
Last edited by A20A1; 11-27-2005 at 06:41 PM.
Yea...no codes at all. Might be just working enough to not throw a code. But once I get the new sensor, should be good to go. Just from running it the little bit, plugs started to foul again!! That could be why I only get 20mpg though!
underdog, you could look at my coil to see how to hook up yours, I've got the Accel coil. Installs the same as yours. :alc:
I know someone suggested this site as cheap car parts:
http://www.slhondaparts.com
But I would like to recommend:
http://www.majestichonda.com
They are fast efficient and have better prices on Honda parts.
I am having same problem with my 89 se-i, sluggish until around 1800 rpm but may be vacuum related.
Waiting on other parts anyways and just did a 5 sp swap so few kinks to work out.
try disconnecting the EGR lift sensor and see if your ecu throws a code... maybe the ECU is having some issues. or it could be like you said and the sensor was only partly faulty.
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