A couple problems...

[Tespo87AccordDX]

1. The transmission - When I'm in Park it idles at 2500RPM. Then I put it into Reverse and the car jerks a little back and the RPM drops to 1200. Then I put it into Neutral and there is no jerk but the RPM goes back up to 2500. Then I put it into Drive D4 and the car jerks immensely forward as though it had just been rear ended and the RPM goes up to 1800ish. My question is why does it jerk like that and how can I fix it?

2. Minor problem -- When I'm driving at speeds of 10mph or more there is an annoying squeaking sound coming from the driver's door. It sounds like it's coming from the where the bottome of the window and the door panel meet. How do I fix this?

3. Minor problem -- When I start the car at night (about 60ºF) there is a loud squeaking noise from under the hood, probably a belt. It's very piercing and annoying, but once the car warms up and I tap the gas, the squeaking stops. Any advice?

4. My CV joint boots cracked a while back and there is dirt in the CV joints. It does make a cranking noise when I turn. I have learned to live with this but should I rush out to have this fixed? How do I know when it's time is up? How long can I go before I need to have it fixed?

Thx for the help...

['89AccordLX(Rus)]

1. The reason your car jerks backward and forward like that is because the transmission is engaged at high RPM. Does your car idle at 2500 rpm all the time or only during warm up? If it happens only during warm up, just let the engine warm up a bit and drop the fast idle. If 2500 is your normal idle, your carburator needs adjustment or there are issues in the vacuum system.

2. That annoying sound is probably the upper ball joint or the upper control arm bushings. At 10 mph and below the road noise doesn't mask the sounds. In addition, small irregularities in the road surface are more apparent at slow speeds so your suspension tends to move more. There are two possible causes for the control arm to be making this sound. Either your balljoint is dry and slowly grinding itself up, or the bushings that are installed where the arm mounts to the body are dry/worn and squeaking. My money is on the balljoint since I had the exact same sound until I replaced the upper arm. Look at the upper balljoint boot. If it is split and there is grease leaking out, chances are you'll need to replace it soon.

3. You are correct, that noise is caused by one of your belts. One or several of your belts are either too loose, too tight, or simply worn. Check in the shop manual for the inspection procedure. That will explain what to look for and how to fix the problems. Whatever you do, don't use belt dressing on the belts. It won't fix the problem, just mask it.

4. You can drive for a quiet some time with torn CV joint boots. I would recommend replacing the axles as soon as you can because it is pretty cheap and quick. When the axles start clicking while going straight, that's when they are totally gone. Next step after that is locking up while moving and causing serious damage to drivertrain components.

Hope that answered some of your questions.
*EDIT* Just my $.02

[Tespo87AccordDX]

Yes it does, thank you, but where's your $.02?

[Moodybluesr]

If your CV joint decides to go on you in the middle of nowhere it will render the car inoperable. If you don't want to be stranded some night in the middle of the 'hood get the CV shaft replaced.

That's my $.01 (I'm poor)

[A20A1]

You might want to make sure your coolant is full. Low coolant can affect the time it takes for the fast idle to drop off, it can also add wear to your water pump. Make sure you have the right mix of water and coolant/antifreeze.

If the belts seem good and are tightened good, It could just be that the belt shrinks some when cold or condensation is on the pullies.

[biloyp]

1. The transmission - When I'm in Park it idles at 2500RPM. Then I put it into Reverse and the car jerks a little back and the RPM drops to 1200. Then I put it into Neutral and there is no jerk but the RPM goes back up to 2500. Then I put it into Drive D4 and the car jerks immensely forward as though it had just been rear ended and the RPM goes up to 1800ish. My question is why does it jerk like that and how can I fix it?

2. Minor problem -- When I'm driving at speeds of 10mph or more there is an annoying squeaking sound coming from the driver's door. It sounds like it's coming from the where the bottome of the window and the door panel meet. How do I fix this?

3. Minor problem -- When I start the car at night (about 60ºF) there is a loud squeaking noise from under the hood, probably a belt. It's very piercing and annoying, but once the car warms up and I tap the gas, the squeaking stops. Any advice?

4. My CV joint boots cracked a while back and there is dirt in the CV joints. It does make a cranking noise when I turn. I have learned to live with this but should I rush out to have this fixed? How do I know when it's time is up? How long can I go before I need to have it fixed?

Thx for the help...

Yeah u got an idle problem, hard to ay exactly what but get it fixed cuz that sudden jerking will mess your car up more. For the cost and ease of relacing ur belts I would start with the alternator one first and see if that heps. If not, u got a spare belt. Then do that with the next belt till u stop the squeling. It could be bearings in ur alt going it hapened to me but I thinnk it was the belt cuz when I took it off and looked at it, I noticed shiny areas in the grooves (inside part).

[Tespo87AccordDX]

I got quoted $360 for new axles. $195 for labor! Does this sound right? That's not cheap!

['89AccordLX(Rus)]

Sounds too expensive. New (or rather rebuilt) axles from the auto parts store are usually pretty cheap, in fact some people claim to have gotten both sides for around $100. This however usually requires you to return your old axles to the store for a core charge. Labor could be free if you do it yourself. $195 labor charge does sound about right though for puting the axles in.