I'm trying to change my front struts. The bolt that connects the dampening fork to the lower arm is seized i tried everything to get it out. When i got my CV joints replaced the dude was telling me about something they spent hours on and still couldn't get it loose. Now i know! Is there any way to remove the struts w/ out getting that bolt out?
PLEASE someone reply w/ help!!!! I tried eveything! Would an air tool help
2.25 Sprint drop w/ Bilstien struts in rear & Koni's in the front, moddified 94-97 Accord CAI, JDM power folding mirrors, Prelude A arms, Naxos exhaust, K&N Filter, Accel coil, Advanced timing, NGK-R plugs, 7.5mm wires, Apc H4 headlight conversion, PIAA hyper plasma bulbs every where, 17" Exel Maj rims wrapped in 205/40 17 Kumho tires, w/ 5% platinum tint, painted calipers & drums, shaved tail lights, moldings, antana, squirters, and emblems, Clarion DRB3675 head unit w/ Clarion 6x9s
Hmmm, first thing that pops into my head is one of my brothers air impacts, it'll do like 450 to 650 lbs torque. Their's no way to change the struts without removing that bolt. I can't see that theirs enough room to compress the spring either. Do you have a cheater bar for your wrench? A piece of metal pluming pipe works for me so I can get extra leverage. If not find a shop that'll but a impact wrench to it. I've heard stories of having to slice the bolt off and pound it out, hopefully you don't have to do that.
Any body have any other idea?
how would i go about cutting the bolt off and pounding it through? What would i use? Wouldn't that strip the threading in the lower arm, or is there even threading there?
2.25 Sprint drop w/ Bilstien struts in rear & Koni's in the front, moddified 94-97 Accord CAI, JDM power folding mirrors, Prelude A arms, Naxos exhaust, K&N Filter, Accel coil, Advanced timing, NGK-R plugs, 7.5mm wires, Apc H4 headlight conversion, PIAA hyper plasma bulbs every where, 17" Exel Maj rims wrapped in 205/40 17 Kumho tires, w/ 5% platinum tint, painted calipers & drums, shaved tail lights, moldings, antana, squirters, and emblems, Clarion DRB3675 head unit w/ Clarion 6x9s
Their is threading at the nut end of the bolt, only for the bolt. The rest of the bolt is splined. Once the nut is removed, their is still some threads inside the arm that will help move the bolt out if you continue to turn the wrench. At a certain point you should be able to grab the bolt and twist it back and forth while pulling on it and it will work its way out.
Kinda hard to say what you should use to cut it off. I wouldn't think you'd be able to get a hacksaw behind the bolt. You don't have a air grinder with a cutting disk. You might end up buying a new bolt or pulling on from a junk yard and going to a welding shop that has a the ability to use a cutting disk or what ever and have them slice the bolt out.
Anybody got any ideas on how to slice the nut off?
I got the nut off already. It's the bolt it's self stuck in there. I beat the hell out of it w/ a hammer and it won't move. it's stuck in the first "leg" of the dampening fork as soon as the threading starts. Is there any threading in that "leg" of the dampening fork.
I took it back to the guy that put my CV axles in and he claims that i need a entirely new lower arm. He says cutting it out won't work because it's seized in the lower arm
Is all that necessary? I can't possibly see how a smooth bolt would seize up in a smooth chamber. Which leads me to think that it's stuck on the threaded end of the bolt. If anything i'll need a new fork. Does this sound right to you?
2.25 Sprint drop w/ Bilstien struts in rear & Koni's in the front, moddified 94-97 Accord CAI, JDM power folding mirrors, Prelude A arms, Naxos exhaust, K&N Filter, Accel coil, Advanced timing, NGK-R plugs, 7.5mm wires, Apc H4 headlight conversion, PIAA hyper plasma bulbs every where, 17" Exel Maj rims wrapped in 205/40 17 Kumho tires, w/ 5% platinum tint, painted calipers & drums, shaved tail lights, moldings, antana, squirters, and emblems, Clarion DRB3675 head unit w/ Clarion 6x9s
spray some stuff called PB Blaster in there and let it sit for a few mins. if that doesnt loosen the bolt, it'll probably have to be drilled out, which seems like a losing proposition for you
- Joe
I had the same problem. You could try spraying and letting it soak overnight but if that doesn't help, I would chop the bolt off with a grinder (right between the fork and the arm bushing). That's what I did and then I drilled out the rubber in the bushing, cleaned out the hole, and then installed a new bushing and bolt which I had to get through Honda and gave it a nice coating of never seize. Pain in the ass but I like knowing the bolt won't give me problems next time around.
www.b20accord.com
UNBOLT THE RADIUS ROD AND UPPER ARM LOWER THAT SHIT. IF YOU LOOSEN THE BOLT THAT SQUEEZES THE BASE OF THE STRUT YOU CAN GET THE STRUT OUT BUT I GUARANTEE YOU'RE IN FOR A LOT OF BANGING WITH THE HAMMER
Eric
3geez member since October 12, 2000
"All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau
My bolts are frozen too. The way I did it was unbolt the pinch bolt and have someone press down on the brake assembly and you hammer the fork. Little by little the strut will come out.
'88 LX-i Coupe --- LS/Vtec
'08 Accord EX-L 6-6 --- Daily Duty
I was talking to a friend of mine that proposed i take off the lower arm to get the strut out. Does that sound right?
2.25 Sprint drop w/ Bilstien struts in rear & Koni's in the front, moddified 94-97 Accord CAI, JDM power folding mirrors, Prelude A arms, Naxos exhaust, K&N Filter, Accel coil, Advanced timing, NGK-R plugs, 7.5mm wires, Apc H4 headlight conversion, PIAA hyper plasma bulbs every where, 17" Exel Maj rims wrapped in 205/40 17 Kumho tires, w/ 5% platinum tint, painted calipers & drums, shaved tail lights, moldings, antana, squirters, and emblems, Clarion DRB3675 head unit w/ Clarion 6x9s
Both of my fork to lower arm bolts are well and truely stuck in and wont come out without cutting.
I changed my shocks/springs by undoing the shock to fork pinch bolt. Loosening the top arm and pressing the suspention down.
There is not much room to spare but it will let you change the struts without taking the damned fork off.
Honda CR-V Mk2
Quantum Sport Saloon
Thank you everyone that gave their input. I used the pinchbolt/pull down method. Took forever but it finally worked! My shit is phat as hell now, makes the 18" wheels look like dubs(20").
This website has saved my ass on many occasions. I would like to become a foundation member but i don't know where to send my donation. If any one knows please E-mail me at [email protected] or post it.
3geez
2.25 Sprint drop w/ Bilstien struts in rear & Koni's in the front, moddified 94-97 Accord CAI, JDM power folding mirrors, Prelude A arms, Naxos exhaust, K&N Filter, Accel coil, Advanced timing, NGK-R plugs, 7.5mm wires, Apc H4 headlight conversion, PIAA hyper plasma bulbs every where, 17" Exel Maj rims wrapped in 205/40 17 Kumho tires, w/ 5% platinum tint, painted calipers & drums, shaved tail lights, moldings, antana, squirters, and emblems, Clarion DRB3675 head unit w/ Clarion 6x9s
You'll definetly need new bolts, and you can only get those from honda cause they got grooves in'em I belive they are abou $10 each. Ya I had to torch the fork off one at the wrecker to get it off, one of mine on my car had to be cut to. Tha bastards like to stay in there but at least once you change the bolt you shouldn't run into that agin.
89 efi conversion
17" katana, lude arms, full 2" exhaust/hollowed cat, Ractive intake, centerforce dual friction, msd coil/wires
DAMNIT..Just what I experienced today.
that shit is stuck there. :ego:
I've tried pounding on the fork after loosening the upper arm, no can do. I've pounded for like 4 freakin hours and the strut is only 1/8 out
And how the heck do you take out the radius rod bolt...there's just no room!!!
Will it hurt the axle if I just let it hang after taking the upper arm bolts lose??
No helper + dodging apt. managers + scorching sun + no sleep + shitty stucked fork bolt = numbed fingers + backache + headache + balls hurt. all tht squating damnnnnn
And these are only for ONE side. OMG
What else can I expect?? Anyone has any problems for the rear? I think I'm just gonna give up
Somebody??
1) How to take the radius rod bolts out from the lower arm? No room.
2) Will it hurt the halfshaft to let it hang after taking the upper arms bolts lose?
3) Anyone has any problems for the rear suspension change?
Your help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
I've never never messed with the radius arm's so I can't comment. Their have been other discussions on subject's like this one. I'd look back through this section and look for them, hopefully you can find some help. In the meantime, I'll pm YK86 (Yasu) and ask him if he can help you out.
H&R springs revalved Bilstein front struts, koni struts in the rear 195/55-15 Dunlop W-10's Dc Sports header custom cat-back with Dynomax super turbo w/3" Brembo slotted & dimpled rotor's EBC pads
Well, that's what I used to have, wrecked, 7/3/02.
Now I d
1)No room as in can't get the bolts out/up enough because something is in the way??
2)Hanging is fine as long as you don't stretch the CV boot too much (it will rip) or have it hanging in a weird way where the axle might pop out of the tranny.
3)The rear is a mixed thing too. Both lower bolts in the rear were seized in the 86 so I had to cut those off while the 88 only had one bad bolt. Try for a while and if it's not coming out, cut it off. The rear bolt is available at any hardware store or auto store that carries metric fine threaded bolts. The front one is weird and needs to be ordered from Honda and same with the bushings for the front and rear.
If the lower arm to fork bolt is causing that much headaches, grind it off. There iis no point in trying to save a crap bolt from being cut because it will give you headaches next time you need to do suspension work.
www.b20accord.com
Thanks guys.
I can't get enough room to fit the socket and the breaker bar to the radius rod bolts, the fork is in the way. And a wrench just don't have enough to loosen those bolts.
If I can only get the radius rod and maybe the stabilizer bar off, then the whole assembly can go lower and the strut will have enough room to be lowered.
The biggest problem is I can't leave my car hanging on jack stands or else the manager will come looking for me...damn i need a garage!!!!
Any suggestions before I start working on it again this weekend?
Hopefully this time I'll be able to shout
"WHO'S YOUR DADDY!!! HUH HUH" lol
Use the flattest grinding disc (to minimize grinding the fork or the arm. A chop saw disc is strong and flat but you need to find one that will fit on a grinder. Try to cut right on the part of the bushing that sticks out. That way, you will only cut the bushing that you will drill out and throw away anyways. Make sure you wear goggles as sparks will fly. You'll probably need to lie on your side or back.
Order the lower bushing in advance (since the Honda's around here never have them instock or atleast phone to see if they have it. Also, you should pick up a new replacement bolt. If you don't go with a genuine bolt, make sure you get a grade 8 or higher bolt (the higher the better).
www.b20accord.com
Thanks Yasu. I'll get a grinder from sears soon.
Does anyone know if the bushings are in there tight or need to be pressed in? Can it be easily taken out without damaging it.
The reason is I'm broke now and if I could pick up the bushings and bolts from the junk yard, that'll be great.
Total new for bushings and bolts are about $70++ WTF...honda piece of rubber.
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