it's honda... need we say more about parts not working between years, even with the same car, trimline, engine code...
it's honda... need we say more about parts not working between years, even with the same car, trimline, engine code...
The B18a cable trannies used a different intermediate shaft. It has a male into the tranny, and a female receptacle for the CV halfshaft.
Ray Fong
Owner/Engineer
Racetek Engineering
http://www.racetekengineering.com
1986 Accord LX-i Hatch
B16a3 motorswap, BAR approved
hmm i've never seen an intermediate shaft on the a20a before. both axles plug up to the differential on the tranny. the passenger side is a short one and the driver's side is a thicker and longer one. so when you swap in a b-series, where is that shaft suppose to bolt to or where is it already bolted to? the engine? sorry, i've never really looked into the b-series much. i've been working on finishing touches on my bodykit and planning out the fiberglass interior layout.
anyways, any more pics ray?
Last edited by ICEMAN707; 04-14-2005 at 12:52 PM.
I know what hes talking about...I will look to see if I have a pic of one
edited for pic
Last edited by masterkillalw; 04-14-2005 at 01:25 PM.
no pic, all i see is an X
I see it... try this..
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...20_28_full.jpg
hmmm let's see if this works:
cardomain is screwy for some reason. gotta reload it a couple of times for it to show up. anyways. that set of axles look like the perfect size. are those b-series axles? they look like they match up the a20 axles lengthwise. but if that bend where the intermediate shaft is makes the axle too short to reach the driver's hub, can't you use the a20 driver's axle instead? instead of messing with the B engine's intermediate shaft? or is that the only type of axle setup that would fit the B-series without hitting anything under the B engine?
i'm guessing using the a20 driver's axle would hit something under the B engine if you use it. that's why that intermediate shaft setup is needed. am i right?
Last edited by ICEMAN707; 04-14-2005 at 05:10 PM.
No, intermediate shafts are used so that the drive axles are equal length. Equal length axles means less torque steer. The A20 does not have an intermediate shaft. The halfshaft fits into the tranny like a regular axle and then bolts to the back of the block with a bracket.Originally Posted by ICEMAN707
No projects. Life consumes my time and money.
i don't know for sure, but the a20 axles might not have the same spline count or different spindle size as the b series axles. that would be another reason you had to use the intermediate shaft design.
Chris
http://personalwebs.myriad.net/mouchyn/accordsig.jpg
The A20 axles are a direct fit on the passenger side. The driver side is too long, plus the CV joint is too large to fit next to the b-series block, which is why the b-series must use an intermediate shaft.
Ray Fong
Owner/Engineer
Racetek Engineering
http://www.racetekengineering.com
1986 Accord LX-i Hatch
B16a3 motorswap, BAR approved
you are using the A-series passenger side axle w/B-series driverside axle right? do you think the same applies to a different tranny set up w/'b'-swap ??
It should be the same for all the b-series swaps. Just make sure you use the correct intermediate shaft.
Ray Fong
Owner/Engineer
Racetek Engineering
http://www.racetekengineering.com
1986 Accord LX-i Hatch
B16a3 motorswap, BAR approved
Exactly...the main reason right there is torque steer...and correct me IF I am wrong but I don't beleive that the a20 axle will fit into the B-series tranny...not 100% sure though...like I said correct me IF I am wrong...
Oh yea and yes those are B-series axles...
ray, have you tried using 2 passenger side a20 axles with that b-series shaft? maybe that works? looks to me from the pic, both axles on the b-series are the same size. so if you were able to fit one passenger side a20 axle, you should be able to fit another for the driver's side. if it's too short, try an h22a axle since it might be longer cus the ludes have a wider stance. or a CRV b20b axle for that matter.
also, didn't 3gees have one axle different between manual and auto? i can't remember if it's the passenger or driver's side that's different between transmission types if one is longer than the other, perhaps you can try both and see which will be able to reach the hub with the b-series tranny. if not, go with my first suggestion with h22a and b20b axles...even the axles that go on the rear differential of 4wd CRV's
driver side axle is different between auto and manual on the 3g accord. I found out because the fucksticks at honda gave me the wrong transmission seal and wasted 8 of my hard-earned dollars.
Chris
http://personalwebs.myriad.net/mouchyn/accordsig.jpg
Originally Posted by ICEMAN707
I was thinking abotu checking the axles on the b16 powered G1 integras.
Good luck finding one. There never was one. The 1G Integra had a D16. You should be able to use the axles from 2G B18A Integra or even B17 one. You might to swap the outer CV joint and hub for the Accord one tho.Originally Posted by Legend_master
No projects. Life consumes my time and money.
Originally Posted by SteveDX89
O my mistake i thought they were b16, but are the b18a axles the proper length and what half shaft do you run?
I'm using the halfshaft that came with my B16 when I bought it. As far as I know, it's the same thing as the B18A half shaft. As far as the proper axles, it's gonna have to be a trial and error type deal. The 2g Integra seems to be about the same size and the 3g Accord so IMO, I think they are the best place to start. Until someone actually does this for sure, we won't know exactly what works.Originally Posted by Legend_master
No projects. Life consumes my time and money.
yeah with placeracing out of business. it would suck to find replacement axles. best to know which stock honda axles fit. that way all you do is pick up the right ones from your local parts store when one breaks.
so how is everything going on this swap???Haven't seen much more on this...
Just waiting on a few parts, looking for a B18A intermediate shaft, and finishing up my wire harness. Hopefully I can get it all squared away in the next week or so.
Ray Fong
Owner/Engineer
Racetek Engineering
http://www.racetekengineering.com
1986 Accord LX-i Hatch
B16a3 motorswap, BAR approved
you know what. if you are gonna produce some swap kits. one or two. . or howmany ever. . i want in on it. koo?
=D . . . i got money in hand, sooo yeaaaaa. im sorry but some of us dont have the welding skills, any shop experiance skills, any free motor skills, any nunchuk skills, bow throwing skills. but some are willing to throw some cash at those who do have the special skills. lol.... LUHKEEEY. good luck with everything. take the time. and inform us on how everything is going time to time. we are interested on the problems that accur. or the breakthroughs that you come across. much love.-junior-
if you have cash in hand, why not buy a welder and start learning? buy a soldering iron and start learning how to rewire stuff. it's not hard to learn -- just takes practice.Originally Posted by bboipinoy112
then YOU could make your own swap kits and pull in tons of side cash. private/custom fabricators make a killin on these websites. untaxed income and people with DEEP pockets looking for custom parts. cha-ching.
Chris
http://personalwebs.myriad.net/mouchyn/accordsig.jpg
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