colt cam.. it was made with the intensions of a higher rev limit... I have the spings/titanium retainers and the forged valves..
GRIND ; LIST BELOW
NO GRIND ; KEEP STOCK CAM AND RUN ADJUSTABLE CAM GEAR
colt cam.. it was made with the intensions of a higher rev limit... I have the spings/titanium retainers and the forged valves..
'honda makes people happy'
oh you still got that head, damn i need a new job
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
yea.. I have the head still, I just never got the crank knifed for the higher rev, or anything else. (pistons, rods)
'honda makes people happy'
yeah thats a really high duration cam... i really think youd start to lose power on anything over 272 duration on boost, plus you should have both valves open and close at the same time and have the same lift.
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
don't know, this is what colt cam recomended
'honda makes people happy'
for boost? It sounds like an N/A cam...
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
well having the valves open at different times helps create more swirl.
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
no clue.. lol
I just told them to make it for a high rev turbo app and thats what they gave me
'honda makes people happy'
yeah the swirl will give you some tq but youll loose some peak hp
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
must sell, need the money - first $100 takes it, new.. never installed - I will be putting in ebay in a week..
'honda makes people happy'
The lobe lift is on here, just need to search for it. Here is some general info on picking a cam.Originally Posted by 89accordex4dr
Picking a Cam
If a customer wants a hotter cam, choose wisely because the camshaft determines the engine's personality and power curve. Choosing the "right" cam for a particular application means taking into account how the vehicle will actually be driven, vehicle weight, gearing, type of transmission (manual or automatic), the engine's compression ratio, carburetion and cylinder heads. The best advice here is to follow the camshaft supplier's recommendations - and to install a complete camshaft kit that includes new lifters, pushrods, valve springs and retainers.
When you look through the various performance camshaft manufacturer's catalogs, you'll notice two things. The first is that there are many different cam grinds from which to choose. The more popular the engine (small block Chevy, for example), the greater the selection of cams that are offered. The other thing is that each grind is designed for a specific type of application, so follow the cam supplier's recommendations to the letter.
Performance cams typically have more lift and duration than a stock cam. The most common mistake that's made when choosing a performance grind is "over-camming" the engine. Too much lift and duration in an otherwise stock engine is a bad mismatch that may hurt performance more than it helps.
When comparing cams, the numbers tell the story. These include lift, duration, overlap, lobe separation and timing. The duration specs reveal the cam's potential for making power within a certain rpm range. Generally speaking, the longer the duration, the higher the rpm range where the cam delivers its power. Short-duration cams are good for low-speed torque and throttle response (especially in heavier vehicles and those with automatic transmissions), while long-duration cams are better for high-winding engines that make lots of top-end power.
Cams with up to 220° of duration (measured at 0.050" cam lift) are usually best for stock unmodified engines. Once you go beyond 220° of duration, intake vacuum starts to drop and idle quality suffers.
Another spec that affects driveability is the relative timing of the intake and exhaust valves. This can be expressed either as "valve overlap" (the time during which the intake and exhaust valves are both open) or "lobe separation" (the number of degrees or angle between the centerlines of the intake and exhaust lobes). Decreasing the lobe separation increases overlap, while increasing the separation decreases overlap. Most stock replacement cams with durations of less than 200° will have lobe separations of 112° to 114°. Higher duration cams for mid-range performance typically have 110° to 112° of lobe separation. With racing cams, you'll find lobe separations that range from 106° to 108°.
Overlap occurs when the intake valve starts to open before the exhaust valve has finished closing. Increasing overlap can be a desirable thing in a higher rpm performance application because the outgoing exhaust actually helps scavenge the cylinder to draw more air and fuel into the combustion chamber. But too much overlap at low rpm kills low-end torque and throttle response by excessively reducing intake vacuum.
.
boba.. I have a custom turbo cam.. if you are interested..
'honda makes people happy'
what are the specs on the cam wayne? i wish u had told me about this earlier lol i already bought teh 282 cam....
what can u tell me about it though?
are you saying u thrashed a stage 5 spec clutch? DAAAAAAAAAAAAYMN well i bought the clutch with built NA in mind... so i didnt figure it would hold all that much power under boost, but no sense buying another until i toast the spec.
TF 2 Turbo done May 8/2003
Prime INT 280° .392 Lift
SEC INT 268° .383 Lift
EX: 288° .394 Lift (advanced for turbo 2)
is the specs from colt cams.. and I thought I did mention it to you awhile back...
'honda makes people happy'
interesting... ill grab those specs and see if its something i could/should use...
you told me before it was built to make big topend power right? up to 8500?
yes.. with the turbo push the cam will power to 8500 great with the valve springs and stuff u got off me
'honda makes people happy'
Ok so i was thinking of getting one of my spare camshafts reground. But which regrind should i get??? Or would it seriously even be worth my time?? And also how do i get ahold of one of these companys.
http://www.myspace.com/3364524
b20accord SN on honda-tech,homemadeturbo,clubcivic,turbod16, and many more
Delta 272. Very much worthwile. Here is there #1-253-383-4152.
They are really close to me. It would be about $70 to regrind your cam. You pay shipping of course.
http://www.deltacam.com/
Originally Posted by Swap_File
hmm, ive always thought that stock would be best with turbo but wasnt sure. So i guess i should just stay with my stock one for now then.
http://www.myspace.com/3364524
b20accord SN on honda-tech,homemadeturbo,clubcivic,turbod16, and many more
may still want to try an adjustable cam gear though
- llia
i think a 272 grind might be a little too big for a turbo engine, remember you dont want big overlap. Somthing a little smaller might be better
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
yeah from everything i have read, stock cam is smartest, unless you get a cam built specifically for your turbo application (which delta might be able to do?) i have a 272 and a 282 cam, but im gonna run stock cam first, then try the 272 and see how the rollers react!
im very very interested to see a dyno chart of a 272 on boost compared to a stock cam. Im expecting a big difference but im not sure which way (i think the stock cam is gonna be better overall but who really knows)
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
yeah honestly i think stock cam would be best for boost too... but maybe a custom cam MADE for boost would show gains over a stock cam.
Bookmarks