87 LX engine problem

[Rudy]

Engine operates O.K. when cold and at hot road idle.

At slower speeds - engine hot - for a split-second - when accelerating or decelerating - the engine bucks slightly as though the ignition switch is being shut off for a fraction of a second. Does it 8 out of 10 times.

Have changed gasoline, both filters, checked charging system voltage, vacuum lines, (there are a bunch), distributor cap and wires and some of the frequency solenoid valves.

Any ideas - anyone?



Thank You.

Lorin

Any ideas

[gfrg88]

i'm guessing its the oxygen sensor?? maybe i'm wrong.

have you checked your ecu for any codes. heres the post on how to check them. i'm not positive if thats problem maybe someone else could tell you whats wrong with it

[Rudy]

Checked the EGR valve and removed the plastic ECU cover under the drivers seat but this one does not have a window so it looks like I will have to remove another metal cover.

Weather has turned here and I will resume when it clears up.

Thanks for the tip.

[86LXItooFAST4me]

first off, what the hell do you have? 86-87 or 88-89 and is it carb or EFI?

[accordlxi2.0]

he has a 1987 LX...so homey you don't have any ecu codes.
hmmm...whats the mileage??

[Rudy]

1987 - Accord - LX - Auto - 119 cid - 1955 cc - 2.0 litre - carbureted - 95,700 mi.

Don't see an ECU in the Honda manual.

[AZmike]

Did you forget to list the spark plugs in the list of ignition parts you replaced? If not, I'd try swapping them out next; I'd recommend NGKs.

[Rudy]

Bosch platinums at 30K. All O.K.

Seems O.K. when cold, (below 160F)

Problem is not missing - it is a stumble or slight cut out only when HOT and at mostly a slight accelerate or on decelerate at slower speeds.

Idles fine.

Polar Bear weather here now.


Will check the Oxygen sensor values and manual section: 11:57/11:59 for frequency control valves A B and C - ASAP.

Thanks

[A20A1]

If the weather was not so cold I would have said it could be the booster venturies coming loose.

[Rudy]

Have done a number of vacuum checks on approx 6 items with gauged vacuum pump. All check O.K. according to the Genuine Honda manual except the anti-after burn control solenoid valve.
It does not hold vacuum on cold test sec:11-102. Ran out of daylight and rain/snow moving in so will continue in a few days.

As stated: car runs fine cold - idle and all speeds. Hot - near shift points will cut out for a FRACTION of a second, (not a miss on one cylinder) and resume. Locked in 2nd at 2500 rpm - it will cut out and resume 2 times a second. Also, on decelerate - just as you release the gas pedal - will cut out. Feels like the distributor spark advance is sticking on and off. Vacuum test on distributor vacuum advance diaphragm, (vac lines 2 and 25 with distr cap removed), tested O.K.




Appreciate the response from you guys. Thank You!

Lorin

[hondamanlxi]

is nebraska a emissions testing state? if not, you need to do the vacuum removal mod. That will clear up alot of wierd little problems, space, and 1 or 2 hp.

[Rudy]

No emissions testing here since the '80's.

[87accordlxph]

Maybe the EGR valve is stuck. Plug the vacuum line from it then try to see if the car hesitates on accel. when hot.

-Mike from P-Town!

Delete this post please. Damn.

[Rudy]

Had the EGR off earlier. Looked clean, gasket good and plunger seated w/o restriction. Actuated fully with vacuum pump during finger test.


Will check this suggestion.

Thanks

[POS carb]

On The Back Of The Carb There Is A Single Wire Connector Going To A Brass Cylinder. This Is The Slow Mixture Solenoid. If This Does Not Have Power The Car Will Run Perfect But Not Idle As If It Was Turned Off (no Bucking, Hesitating) If It Has A Loose Connection It May Cause What You Are Describing, Make Sure It Is Connected Properly. Other Than That It Could Be A Bad Float Setting Or Screwed Up Ignition (especially The Ignitor Unit)