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Thread: Clanking noises when turning..

  1. #1
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    Clanking noises when turning..

    At first it was only one side that I heard the clanking and now its both sides and it seems more dramatic.. Im not sure what it is.. shocks maybe?...



  2. #2
    LXi User buds302's Avatar
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    cv joints gone bad. time for new axles
    b u n n y · t y p e R
    "the bunny liked the go-faster stripes... but wasn't too keen on the rear spoiler and ridiculous bodykit"

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    So im buying new axles or cv joints? lol.. and aprox.. how much do u think they would cost?

  4. #4
    LXi User buds302's Avatar
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    50 bucks each not including core charge. which is another 50 bucks. thats at an auto parts store. check ebay they usually have some for 25 bucks but i dont know about shipping
    b u n n y · t y p e R
    "the bunny liked the go-faster stripes... but wasn't too keen on the rear spoiler and ridiculous bodykit"

  5. #5

    SteveDX89's Avatar
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    Do the complete axle. Rebuilding CV joints seems to be a real pain in the ass. I've never done it but I don't ever really want to.
    No projects. Life consumes my time and money.

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    Sorry but whats a core charge?... i would go to the honda dealership.. i thought it was my shocks.. haveu changed ur shocks?.. its kind of a bumpy ride after 17 years lol

  7. #7
    LXi User buds302's Avatar
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    wait is it a clanking or a clicking and if you just roll around a corner do you hear it or when you hit the gas. eaisiest way to tell is sit in a parking lot. on a dead stop turn the wheel all the way to whatever side you want and step on the gas. if you hear the noise then its you axles. if you dont hear the noise after you straighten the car out then its your axles. oh yeah check the rubber boots at each end of the axles. if they are tore then you need to replace the axle. dont listen to everybody else when they say " oh just put another boot on there itll be alright!" whatever! that is just a temporary fix. it will be back in a matter of time and it will be worse. what happens is dirt gets in there and eats up the joint until it breaks. its just like throwin sand in the oil. it wont last very long.
    b u n n y · t y p e R
    "the bunny liked the go-faster stripes... but wasn't too keen on the rear spoiler and ridiculous bodykit"

  8. #8
    LXi User buds302's Avatar
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    dont go to the honda dealer you will pay like 500 bucks for a new axle. go to www.partsamerica.com enter your vehicle info and look for your axles. a core charge is when you buy a part they want your old one to rebuild it. if you go to the parts store without the old one to give them you will pay the core charge. if you bring the old one back after you buy the new one they will refund the core charge.
    b u n n y · t y p e R
    "the bunny liked the go-faster stripes... but wasn't too keen on the rear spoiler and ridiculous bodykit"

  9. #9
    LXi User buds302's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveDX89
    Do the complete axle. Rebuilding CV joints seems to be a real pain in the ass. I've never done it but I don't ever really want to.
    its a real dirty job!!! and half the time the cv joint wont go back together. then you get pissed and end up losing the ball bearings inside. its a hassle to deal with but thats for someone whose looking for taking a long time and wants to be cheap. i can change an axle in my car in 20 minutes if i had one to put back in. i need to change both mine here in another couple of weeks or so.
    b u n n y · t y p e R
    "the bunny liked the go-faster stripes... but wasn't too keen on the rear spoiler and ridiculous bodykit"

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    My uncle is a mechanic.. but whoa.. that sounds pretty complicated..

  11. #11
    LXi User buds302's Avatar
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    what sounds complicated
    b u n n y · t y p e R
    "the bunny liked the go-faster stripes... but wasn't too keen on the rear spoiler and ridiculous bodykit"

  12. #12
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    Look at these pics, it will help you out, trust me.

    This is your Axle:
    Notice the rubber pluger-like "boots" at both ends of the axle. These are the boots that cover the CV joints.

    Now these are the actual CV joints:


    As you can imagine, it must be a b!tch to replace the CV joints alone. It's cheaper and easier to just get an entirely new axle which already has the CV joints attached. A new axle on www.partsamerica.com costs $50-$80 whereas new CV joints cost $10-$15 plus the "core charge" plus the hassle. Why not just get a brand new axle? You know your car could use any new piece it can get.

  13. #13

    SteveDX89's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tespo87AccordDX
    Now these are the actual CV joints:
    Those are still just the boots.
    No projects. Life consumes my time and money.

  14. #14
    LXi User buds302's Avatar
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    yep the cv joint has three ball bearings and the splined end that bolts up itn the wheen hub or goes in the trans depending on which side it is.
    this is a close enough picture of a c.v joint completley dissassembled.



    imagine tryin to put all that back together while holding the axle straight up and down to get it to line up right. the last one i did it took three people to get all the bearings to stay in place while you put the axle back in the joint. it took two hours to get it all to line up right!
    b u n n y · t y p e R
    "the bunny liked the go-faster stripes... but wasn't too keen on the rear spoiler and ridiculous bodykit"

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    DX User rally88lxi's Avatar
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    me tooo, yeah!!

    I just started hearing the sound on my driver side cv joint and I was planning on replacing the axle myself. The only thing I was wondering about was any special tools other than basic hand tools that I would need to perform this. I know that i will need a bearing puller, but is there anything else I may need.
    Rally 4 Life, Life 4 Rally

  16. #16

    SteveDX89's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rally88lxi
    I just started hearing the sound on my driver side cv joint and I was planning on replacing the axle myself. The only thing I was wondering about was any special tools other than basic hand tools that I would need to perform this. I know that i will need a bearing puller, but is there anything else I may need.
    You don't need a bearing puller. There's no bearing to pull. You will need a pickle fork/ball joint separator. You will also need at least a 1/2" breaker bar and a 32 mm socket to bust the nuts loose on the spindle.
    No projects. Life consumes my time and money.

  17. #17

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    Just do the whole axle, it's ten times easier and 100 times less messy. It's fairly easy to do once you get the ball joints seperated. I actually had a CV joint break on me while I was driving, scared the crap out of me, I put the car into gear went maybe 2 feet and then the engine was just revving freely.

  18. #18
    LXi User buds302's Avatar
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    yeah ive discovered that you dont need to break any ball joints or tie rod ends loose. all you gotta do is drop the upper control arm and if you have the entire front end jacked up you can turn the wheel and have just enough room to get the axle out and back in. now you will need to take the brake line and unbolt it from the spindle arm and take the caliper off and move it out of the way. one more thing, you must take the long bolt out of the bottom of the suspension fork or you wont get the axle out all the way. no need to remove the brake line or the springs or the ball joints. cause if anybody here has ever done it bfore they will tell you that your ball joints are the heart of your car staying off the ground. if you muss them up then you will slam your car on the ground and be havin to replace more shit. also the more times you take apart your ball joints the less they are reliable. belive me it happened to me! besides you should prolly replace them anyway.
    b u n n y · t y p e R
    "the bunny liked the go-faster stripes... but wasn't too keen on the rear spoiler and ridiculous bodykit"

  19. #19
    DX User rally88lxi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by buds302
    yeah ive discovered that you dont need to break any ball joints or tie rod ends loose. all you gotta do is drop the upper control arm and if you have the entire front end jacked up you can turn the wheel and have just enough room to get the axle out and back in. now you will need to take the brake line and unbolt it from the spindle arm and take the caliper off and move it out of the way. one more thing, you must take the long bolt out of the bottom of the suspension fork or you wont get the axle out all the way. no need to remove the brake line or the springs or the ball joints. cause if anybody here has ever done it bfore they will tell you that your ball joints are the heart of your car staying off the ground. if you muss them up then you will slam your car on the ground and be havin to replace more shit. also the more times you take apart your ball joints the less they are reliable. belive me it happened to me! besides you should prolly replace them anyway.
    I'd like more in depth info on this method, it sounds like it is the easiest way to do it. I really don't know a lot about car mechanics, so any tips and instructions would be greatly appreciated. If you could maybe reference a page of the manual available at http://www.pauldesign.ru/honda/index.html that would be very helpful. thanx for all the help.
    Rally 4 Life, Life 4 Rally

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