more cylander head q's
Is it absolutely critical to set the engine to tdc before removing the cylander head. I was reading through my chiltons book and they do not mention it once. BUt I read through the one that you guys posted and it said i did. If I have to any tips or tricks you guys have would be much appreciated thanks.
no theres no reason to! But make sure its timed b/f reinstall
I havent forgotten my roots
[QUOTE=86lxiricer]Is it absolutely critical to set the engine to tdc before removing the cylander head. I was reading through my chiltons book and they do not mention it once. BUt I read through the one that you guys posted and it said i did. If I have to any tips or tricks you guys have would be much appreciated thanks.[/QU
why would the timing be off?
By timed, hondamanlxi probably meant that the crankshaft should be correctly related to the camshaft (TDC on both) so that the valves open at the correct times. You need to double check that when reassembling the engine to avoid serious damage. Hope this helps.
3axap.
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it wouldn't have to be TDC, it would just make it easier to reinstall it though. it's up to you, but you just gotta make sure you have the head and crank at the same point in the rotation(ie TDC) when you put it back together.
Greg
1989 LX-i 2dr 5spd (R.I.P.)
2008 CBR 600RR -- 1995 Toyota Supra NA -- 2013 Nissan Frontier Pro-4x
yeah its easiest to assemble correctly if its already at tdc
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
more cylinder head q's
so whats the easiest way to set the engine to tdc?
Use a ratchet and crank the crankshaft bolt over until the rotor is at plug wire #1 and the timing mark on the flywheel is at the T. My haynes manual explains is fairly well, but the honda e-manual should do the same.
Good luck, but don't sweat, its pretty easy. It also helps to have someone watching the timing marks while you cranck the ratchet(or vice versa)
The problem with the gene pool is that there is no lifeguard;
And the stupid people are breeding......
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Honestly it doesn't matter, when I redid mine after I took off the cylinder head I put the crank at tdc it seemed alot easier and alot more reasuring since you could see the cylinder at tdc.
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yet more cylinder head q's......
well i have run into a snag with the removal process of the head. I need to take the intake manifold off but the bolts on the bottom are damn near impossible to reach. Im guessing there are 4 nuts on the bottom and thats all thats holding that f**er on cause i got the top 5. Does anyone know the best approach to getting the bottom nuts out?
yeah easiest way is pull the motor
Ryan
no way you got to be joking right?
from the looks of it that would seem to be the easiest way. Any other suggestions rather then pulling the motor
the easiest way i have found is to remove the pcv vapor tank and the oil filter and use a slightly bent 12mm box end to get to them from under the car.
if you are also inclined to remove the drive axle thats in the way it helps too.
best way i have found so far. BTW: the bolts on the vapor tank are 10mm and do remember to squeeze the hose to the oil pan back on before bolting it back in.
I Think The Gene Pool Needs More Clorine
the best way to have it done is to remove the motor, but since you don't want to do that. you can just remove the PCV airbox, remove the oil filter (not nessasary but it gives you a little more room to work) and remove the driver side axle.
Alex.
if i were you id pull out the intake manifold and the head as one
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
Thats the way i did it.Originally Posted by AccordEpicenter
- Drive it like a Rental!
My 89 Ex-i on Car Domain
ok thanks guys
i had to use like 2 "u-joints" on my socket and remove some by hand with a wrench, it's a bitch and take your time!!
I wouldn't pull the manifold with the head on a carbed car unless you are really sure how to hook up all those vacuum lines again
Eric
3geez member since October 12, 2000
"All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau
it's just so that you don't hook up the engine 180* out of phase. it's not a big deal, it'll still run, but if you have an LXi that runs on a crank trigger it wont. Just make sure the cam gear is pointing up (can't miss it) and when it does you should be able to see the timing marks on the flywheel/flex plate line up with the needle. if you don't see the marks spin the engine until you do.
the needle should point to the TDC mark and the cam gear's goves should line up with the surface of the head, that's all. also you can mark your timing belt but remember the crank spins twice for every cam rotation
Eric
3geez member since October 12, 2000
"All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau
pull the entire head off with the manifold.
yeah i just removed my head this week and those bolts were hard...remove all the ones on the top and the ones on each end of the manifold....left and right they are sorta easy to get too with a small wrench....get the two under for the bracket.dont forget to take off the thermostats and water hoses/PVC plastic pipe on the under side of the manifold....once thats done undo your engine head bolts if not already...... remove the head off the block watch for any oil inside the head and tilt it forwards {i put it up on two 2x4s just to hold it up till i could get a grip]and u should be able to reach the 2 middle bots...thats how i did it...dont forget to put all new gaskets and bond on everything on bolt up.....
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