Gearboxes

[rjudgey]

Does anyone know of any cool gearbox mods or parts? or any other boxes that have interchangeable parts? Civic 1.5 GT maybe?
I've done the Teg box hybrid and have race spec bearings, but i've chewed up the sycros in 3rd and 4th is starting to go after 20K of hard miles? Is this normal or do i need to be more carefull changing gear? Is it worth looking into getting a oil cooler installed? used the best tranny fluid as well, also had my spare box on and recently destroyed that this weekend at the track but was an earlier Prelude box with smaller bearings and gears. The Teg box seems to take more abuse better!! Normally have two gearboxes looking at getting carbed accord box as the gears are really tall might make a good top speed box!!

[AccordEpicenter]

Well... what tranny oil are you using? If your using full synthetics, that might have an effect. Are you powershifting it alot? Honda trannies are known for syncro grindage... The best tranny oil ive used has been GM Syncromesh Friction modified, its a little better than honda mtf, but at $12 a bottle it better be.

[rjudgey]

power shifting most times drag and track racing, and gets hammered on the road, the oil is proper gearbox oil Comma U.K brand 75/90 semi sythetic changed regularily, now you might go thats too thick but with the temperatures that the box gets too i needed to change to something that can take the abuse, tried using Honda recommended spec oil and that lasted only 10K.

[smufguy]

i dont thikn u can hook up an external oil cooler for the manual tranny.

[AccordEpicenter]

how hot is the trans getting? What clutch is this using? Yeah honda trannies dont like powershifiting, if you powershift all the time (if it grinds or not) the syncros are working hard.

[rjudgey]

shouldn't be too hard, you can either tap the casing and put fixtures on, or what i was thinking was converting the bleed bolt to a fixture and the feed bolt suck the air from the bottom and then return it throught the top or through the top of the casing where the breather is, wouldn't be too hard, just rig up a small pump then into a air to oil cooler and back, use a manual switch and just engage when on track maybe even get a temp gauge on it!! Got a gauge on everything else!! End up with more dials than plane at this rate!!

[Oldblueaccord]

shouldn't be too hard, you can either tap the casing and put fixtures on, or what i was thinking was converting the bleed bolt to a fixture and the feed bolt suck the air from the bottom and then return it throught the top or through the top of the casing where the breather is, wouldn't be too hard, just rig up a small pump then into a air to oil cooler and back, use a manual switch and just engage when on track maybe even get a temp gauge on it!! Got a gauge on everything else!! End up with more dials than plane at this rate!!

Himm first thought would be looking into getting a "crash box" made meaning no syncros just straight cut gears. Thats the whine you here on real race cars. They can hold up very well.

Next I'd run something less then 90 wieght oil. Thats pretty thick. Since the 10w30 oil isnt enought have you tried a straight racing 50 wt oil.

I personally run 10/30 Mobil one but I change it everyyear and yeah it seems /smells burnt and lots of brass floating in it but my tranny still shift fairly well with 250k miles on it.

NASCAR does pump/cooler stuff like on ford 9" rearends so its possible to hook up somekinda pump/cooler deal. Might try to tap into the case and see what temps your running with a sensor and guage or use an IR gun at the very least.

Good luck.


wp

[Strugglebucket]

go for a 6-speed! check this thread out:

https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=39...ht=civic+speed

[AccordEpicenter]

yeah if i were you id see if i could get a dogbox: straight cut gears and dogs for syncros

[rjudgey]

unfortunately no one makes them here? Asked Quaife and even said to them don't car howmuch it will cost!! They were just interested in high volume production!! not one off!!

[AccordEpicenter]

ive never heard of anybody making one for a honda... i could be wrong but dogboxes are mostly high hp drag race or rally

[rjudgey]

hmmm what about if i got the syncros coated in a Keronite or some other similar heat/wear resistant ceramic? That wouldn't cost too much? Planning on buying new 2nd,3rd,4th,5th syncros anyway 1st doesn't really get punished so the others are the problem, that might just work!! What you think worth a try doesn't cost that much to do?

[AccordEpicenter]

anythings worth a try. Ive heard all kinds of coatings for synchros and some are good and some arent...

[1987HondaAccord]

this may be a little off topic, but what is powershifting?

[Oldblueaccord]

this may be a little off topic, but what is powershifting?

Well its alotta things to alotta people.

I would call it shifting without using a clutch.



wp

[AccordEpicenter]

powershifting is when you shift while holding the gas to the floor

[SavageG]

I've had Valvoline 90wt in mine since the last rebuild around 15k ago. I've never gad any problems with the syncros, just a little stiff when it's really cold. Anybody tried Valvoline 75/90 GL5 full synthetic? I'm thinking of switching all my cars over to this as tranny oil.

[spades27]

heres a stupid question i thought you have to use 10 w 20 oil in your tranny thats what the tec here said and also the manual??

[SavageG]

Wow, it looks like you ARE supposed to have 10/20 or something in that range in the transmission. But not just motor oil, honda makes a MT semi-synthetic. I wonder why honda went with such a low viscosity oil?
rjudgey, is the 75/90 semi you are useing a GL-4 or GL-5? GL-5 will severly decrease syncro life, possibly 50% of normal.

Red Line (Valvoline)
Most manufacturers of manual transmissions and transaxles recommend an 80W or 90W GL-4 lubricant. GL-5 gears oils which are required in hypoid differentials are not used in most synchromesh transmissions because the chemicals used to provide the extreme pressure protection can be corrosive to synchronizers, which are commonly made of brass or bronze. Typically, the use of a GL-5 lubricant in a synchromesh transmission will shorten the synchronizer life by one half. The extreme pressure requirements of spur gears and helical gears found in transmissions are not nearly as great as found in rear-wheel drive differentials. A GL-4 lubricant provides adequate protection for most manual transmissions, unless a unique design consideration requires the extra protection of a GL-5.

[AZmike]

hmmm what about if i got the syncros coated in a Keronite or some other similar heat/wear resistant ceramic?

The syncros are supposed to be softer than the gear so they wear out first. A ceramic coating would wear through the gear's polished suface that the syncro spins on. The steel bits flowing around in the oil would finish off whatever components that the syncros didn't cut up.

[rjudgey]

Nice wouldn't want that!!
Well just had the box re-built and put back in and it's leaking oil through the main output shaft stragith onto the clutch, used wynn's stop leak which makes the oil a bit thicker and that seems to have slowed it down a little, in the process of re-building the spare box, but not sure.
Whats the GPL 4/5 rating about? higer the number better or worse in this case?

[spades27]

sorry i ment 10w 30 oil