PROJECT , TURBO ( adams86lxi )

[Justin86]

whoa if you dip stick it getting blow out then your rings are toasted big time. try running it with the oil cap off and you can fell all the blow by.
any way look like you have a VERY nice set up and manifold, just get-r back on the road ASAP.

[myaccord7]

omg my pants!!!

[AccordEpicenter]

nice work adam. Did you not have a boost gauge? If the wastegate line snapped off you probably hit more like 20psi+ Mine started to get a hole in it and my boost started to creep up... boost gauges are a must have item

[adams86lxi]

Yea, i had a boost guage but its down in that little area under the cd player so its out of the way. I had some one watching that and my air/ fuel mixture and i thought they new what i wanted it to boost but i guess not because they sure didnt tell me when it overboosted.

BTW: what and where is the safest way to connect that line so this doesnt happen in the future. I had it connected to the housing of the turbo but the line i think got hot and it got real soft and just slipped off. I should of used better vaccum line. The only problem is that the part for the vaccum line to connect up to on the turbo is real small and the part for the vaccum line to connect up to the wastegate is huge. So i practically need 2 different sizes of vaccum line. Is there another place i could connect it up to other then the turbo or does it absolutly have to be connected????

[ICEMAN707]

hey who made your turbo manifold? that is one nice shiny beast!

[HondaBoy]

how long until you get it all done again? that's cool that it still has the 13's on. is that a nash parked next to the 3gee?

[AccordEpicenter]

i used some like 1/4" line i think and connected it from the intake manifold to the wastegate actuator (better signal) Plug the one on the compressor housing. My guess is that the ringlands on the one piston are cracked up badly, thell fall a part in your hand when you take the engine apart

[BlueBead]

Damn that is sexy!
that manifold is so friggin nice..... get'r back on the blacktop man!

[88accordalltheway]

adam, if/when you get it fixed, call me up right before you drive it, i want to sit in the car and feel the power just in case you blow it again.

[adams86lxi]

adam, if/when you get it fixed, call me up right before you drive it, i want to sit in the car and feel the power just in case you blow it again.

lol, not a problem bro! I decided to fix it i just need parts now. I ripped it all apart now i just need the parts. I need pistons and rings! Perferbly low compression pistons if there cheap.

[adams86lxi]

how long until you get it all done again? that's cool that it still has the 13's on. is that a nash parked next to the 3gee?

Hell yeah its all about the 13s lol! Nah i want some 15 inch rotas or something but i care more about making it faster right now. The car next to mine is a 63 triumph tr4. Its my dads future project car.

[adams86lxi]

i used some like 1/4" line i think and connected it from the intake manifold to the wastegate actuator (better signal) Plug the one on the compressor housing. My guess is that the ringlands on the one piston are cracked up badly, thell fall a part in your hand when you take the engine apart

you were 100 % right! All the ring lands on ALL of the pistons were destoyed! The pistons rings werent actually that bad it was the ringlands that were completly destroyed on all of the pistons. Im so surprised it drove so well!

[mykwikcoupe]

why go low comp pistons. your not running that much boost and your revs are not as high as needed to need them either. Just tune it right next time and make sure to use HOSE CLAMPS on ALL the pressureeized lines.

[adams86lxi]

why go low comp pistons. your not running that much boost and your revs are not as high as needed to need them either. Just tune it right next time and make sure to use HOSE CLAMPS on ALL the pressureeized lines.

Rather be safe then sorry! I would rather put them in now then have to tear it down later if i wanna run more boost. I had 2 zipties on the vaccum line, it got hot and softened up and ripped threw then it just slipped off.



BTW: EVERYONE I ADDED PICTURES OF WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE NOW, AND A VID TO MY FIRST POST!!!!!

[AccordEpicenter]

yeah and i bet that the cylinder walls are fine too. You can use a deglazing ball hone and just run it thru the cylinders with some oil for like 5 sec each cyl and install new rings/pistons and you should be ok depending if the bores were damaged or not

EDIT: Are you using home depot charge pipe couplers? Thats awesome!

[adams86lxi]

yeah and i bet that the cylinder walls are fine too. You can use a deglazing ball hone and just run it thru the cylinders with some oil for like 5 sec each cyl and install new rings/pistons and you should be ok depending if the bores were damaged or not

EDIT: Are you using home depot charge pipe couplers? Thats awesome!

Yeah the cylinder walls look fine. My friend has a ball hone so i will make sure we do that. Is a press the only way a can get the wrist pins out on this motor or what??? Hell yeah i used home deopt pipe couplers lol. Actually its a mix of home depot pipe couplers and some acttual high temp silicone couplers i bought.

[AccordEpicenter]

home depot couplers are just fine. Yea you need a press to get the wrist pins out, and even then theres no guarantee you wont damage the pistons, you have to do it just right. Cool vid too, my accord sounds kinda like yours except it sounds more even (youre probably missing on 1 cyl or 2) and its louder, but the turbo sounds close. When mines spools up it makes a loud ass sucking noise and it blows off pretty loud too, i just need to get an exhaust on it and get my tuning down

[88accordalltheway]

lol, your movie started to get really good right when it ended.....guess im going to have to experience it first hand....

[ICEMAN707]

is that a turbo manifold off another car or something? i remember you made a thread about a dsm manifold fitting the b20a just by redrilling some bolt holes?

[RobT5580]

Its for an H22 i found that they were the closest match so Adam was the test dummy and he re-drilled and ported the manifold to fit. I checked a few DSM's with no luck but I thought it was an older DSM that was close but the H22 was not a bad match with modifications.

[Lok]

Very nice set-up but sorry for the blown engine...........
9.5:1 standar C/R of B20A is OK for TURBO with stock internals and 0.7 bar+.
Newer B16A-B18C engines can hold reliable 1bar or 14.5 psi with stock internals-stock block and they make over 300hp with one T3.
B16A-B18C1 can put 300+hp with stock 10.2-10:1 C/R at 0.7bar/T3 reliably, but after that and until 1 bar, they need aftermarket head gasket for drop the C/R at about 9-9.5:1.
Over 1 bar they need new forged pistons-rods.
jdm B20A , I believe can handle totally reliable 0.7bar TURBO, with stock C/R , stock internals and make 300hp+.
B20A is also close deck instead of open deck B16A-B18C.
The problem is the ECU and the injectors.
One stand-alone ECU is the best part for a TURBO set-up , AEM ( the best but very expensive) POWER-FC, E-MANAGE are all OK if they tunned by someone with experience in electronic tunning.
Also RC 440cc injectors for proper fueling..........stock injectors are not that good for
TURBO SET-UP over 0.5bar.

Good Luck

[RobT5580]

Actually i believe the stock compression is 9.3:1 if im not mistaken. I ran 9:1 Wiseco's on mine but tuning is key when you step up the compression with boost.

[smufguy]

damn you adamn!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! you blew your B20!!!!!!!!!

well, everything looks good. But next time, have a lil more patience man. All i can say is that, it sucks to be you right now.

nice O2 housing by the way............... flexhose.

[carotman]

Adam, when you put this back on... make SUUURE you change the ECU... the stock A20A ECU makes the B20A run lean on an N/A setup.... no way it will work on the Turbo B20A properly.

[RobT5580]

Adam, when you put this back on... make SUUURE you change the ECU... the stock A20A ECU makes the B20A run lean on an N/A setup.... no way it will work on the Turbo B20A properly.

I second that from experience and i was using a wideband O2 so I highly recommend going to the prelude ECU. And make sure you take it easy since your bearings and rings are going to be new.