PROJECT , TURBO ( adams86lxi )

[Civvy]

You have to disconnect the pipe from the black box from the manifold!!! The PCV valve is like a check valve only it lifts a ball bearing up under manifold vacuum to let the black box breathe. so therefore if you give the manifold boost the ball bearing PCV valve wont work so your crankcase has nowhere to vent! The crankcase breathing system is setup because of the small amount of gases that do get past the rings, since youve now boosted it the pressure on your rings will be really high ...dangerous at the mo!!!
I hope you look at this quick before you blow your rings!

[Civvy]

I've used the same breather filter as the one on your valve cover. just pull the small pipe from the manifold and then pull the other end and the pcv valve will pop out with the pipe. throw away the pcv valve, cut the pipe in half, stick it back in the hole and whack a breather filter on it. using the other half pipe stick a bolt in itand use it to plug the manifold.
or just leave the pcv valve out. but it gets smelly!

[Cheeseburger]

dam adam nice pics to bad it went out like that

[SQ is the SQUAD]

check out http://www.pgmfi.org/
we might be able to use turbo with our stock pre odb ecu, i forget what program was for pre odb

[rjudgey]

or do a DIY with Megasquirt and make the ECU yourself some very cool stuff on their website!!

[Civvy]

So what blew?

[adams86lxi]

So what blew?

All the ringlands were destroyed on all of the pistons. Im deffiently doing what you said to do with the pcv when i get it back together.

[JDM STEVE]

I don't think you should use winsheild wiper hose for vacume lines!!! just kiddin adam.

[adams86lxi]

Sure........JDM STEVE. lol

[adams86lxi]

Alright i tore the b20a down and rebuilt it all. Yes, i threw stock parts back in because thats all i can afford and i need a car to drive soon. I only plan on pushing 7psi max on this anyway. I finished it today and decided to fire it up to see what it would do. I dont have any fuel management so i didnt let it do anything other then idel and maybe go to around 2000rpms just to see if it would run right. Well it seems to run perfect.

The only think i notice is that its shooting a bit of smoke out of the exhaust when i give it gas. Im thinking this is just because the piston rings need to get worked in and seated but i dont know? Does anyone know if this is normal???? Im pretty sure its fine but i need to be postitive!

BTW: Dont think im not running any fuel management. Im just getting money to buy all of the good stuff. Im getting a walbro 190 lph fuel pump, dsm 450s, msd btm (from eljiah hopefully) and long story with my safc but it should be comming AGAIN soon. The car isnt even going to start up again probbaly until i get all of this stuff.

[88Accord-DX]

Yes, you're right. That is normal, the rings need time to seat. Don't worry about how much oil the car burns for the first 2,000 miles. Better post ahead.

Keep an eye on the oil level while the rings seat!!!

[88accordhb]

damn adam, good shit, hope you get everything you need man.

[AccordEpicenter]

if i were you adam, get your managemant in order, make a conservative basemap, go out and do some 40-80mph pulls on the highway, cruise for a bit, repeat. That helps the rings seat better

[shepherd79]

while you have your car down, you may as well convert to OBD1.
it will help the car a lot plus you will be able to use hondata.

[88Accord-DX]

1.) Drive normally but not a continuous high speeds for the first 500 miles. Occasional quick bursts of speed followed by quick deceleration during this period, is beneficial. AVOID LUGGING!!! TRIPS AND TOWING are not recommended until after 1000 miles.
NOTE:
Applying loads to the engine for short periods of time causes increased ring pressure against cylinder walls and helps to seat the rings. This is especially important because you are "BREAKING-IN" the engine with heavy duty oils. The rapid deceleration increases vacuum and gives extra lubrication to the piston and other assemblies.


2.) IMPORTANT! AFTER 500 TO A MAXIMUM OF 1000 MILES OF SERVICE, change oil and filter and readjust the valves, except hydraulic. We also require that valve adjustments be done again after a total of 6000 miles. We require a maximum of 3000 miles between oil changes and factory recommendation on valve adjustments thereafter.
NOTE:
Add oil at 1/2 quart intervals on small capacity engines. OIL AND WATER LEVELS ARE A DRIVER OR OWNER MAINTENANCE RESPONSIBILITY, THEY MUST BE KEPT FULL. We realize that this means extra effort on your part, but it assures long and satisfactory engine performance.


3.) A heavy duty detergent oil is required. Use a good quality brand oil, Some Manufacturers require 5/30, others recommend 10/40 for 20 degrees Fahrenheit to 100 degrees Fahrenheit and use 20/50w for higher temperatures and heavy duty use.
NOTE:
In past years, it has been common practice to use non-detergent and straight weight oil during the "BREAK-IN" period because it was felt that the rings would seat quicker without the film strength additives. More recently, there has been a trend to high speed and high temperature engines, cam lobe and tappet loads also have increased to a point where it is important to use heavy duty oils which contain a EP (high pressure) additive right from the start. Rings will seat properly when moderate loads are applied as noted above in section one.

[adams86lxi]

alright awesome! Thanks for you help guys.

But is it ok for me to go into boost every once in awhile for short bursts??? Or do i need to stay out of it?

[Cheeseburger]

nice bor. its good to hear you have your car up and running again

[adams86lxi]

also, is it normal to feel some air shooting out of the top of the valve cover from the breather?

I remember when i destroyed it there was oil shooting out of it bad.

[88accordhb]

also, is it normal to feel some air shooting out of the top of the valve cover from the breather?

I remember when i destroyed it there was oil shooting out of it bad.

you talkin about out of the pvc valve hose that runs out of the valve cover? mine shots warm air out on start up and hot air after running, i believe that's normal.

[adams86lxi]

you talkin about out of the pvc valve hose that runs out of the valve cover? mine shots warm air out on start up and hot air after running, i believe that's normal.

I think thats the one. I dont have a pcv valve anymore. I took it out and put a breather filter inplace of it on the little black box on the back of the block. The one im talking about just runs from the valve cover to the intake.

[adams86lxi]

Does anyone know the answers to these questions still???


is it normal to feel some air shooting out of the top of the valve cover from the breather?

and should i stay out of boost while breaking it in, or can i everyonce inawhile go into it for a short while.

[AccordEpicenter]

yes feeling air is normal, dont go into boost until you get your managemant sorted out, or you WILL be taking this engine apart AGAIN

[RobT5580]

You need to stay out of boost period. Your rings are new i take it and the oil consumption hopefully will go away when the rings seat. Mine burns oil still after 1000 miles but i blame myself for rushing it and not getting different rings because the new ones didnt look great compared to the old. Your number one priority is tuning period but break it in first with no boost so you know its all good.

You really should get a wideband but you priority is fuel management. I hope you dont run into crap like i have but im willing to battle it because im really determined to finish this thing right.

Good like adam!

[adams86lxi]

alright cool. As long as i stay under 3500 it doesnt boost. So i will stay out of it gets broken in.

[adams86lxi]

yes feeling air is normal, dont go into boost until you get your managemant sorted out, or you WILL be taking this engine apart AGAIN

Dont worry its not going anywhere till i get all of the management on it.