Do the work yourself and the B16 swap ain't so bad.

[SteveDX89]

Haha. Dude you always spell axle wrong.

[SQ is the SQUAD]

i cant help it, i ride to school on the small bus

[pendejo]

Hondavtec, whats up with your headlights, they kinda look like a late model Prelude lights???

[SQ is the SQUAD]

ding ding ding folks, we have a winner!

[pendejo]

ding ding ding folks, we have a winner!

sorry, didn't see your other post in a different forum

[ICEMAN707]

Sounds good to me. I also have been thinking of making fabrication drawings of the mounts for production. I plan to pull my motor back out and while it's out, I can use my engineering background, etc. to make accurate drawings. Now I will need to find somewhere to have them made. If I did this, I would prefer to have them machined from solid aluminum so they would be HASport quality instead of PRI's weld together job. It all depends on the cost, the interest and commitment of people to buy.

count me in man. pull your b16 and make templates of those PRI mounts out of posterboard or something! then trace each individual sections on paper and make a spec sheet. i'm sure that's all Hasport needs to make some real quality mounts. heck, i'll pay 100 bux just for the spec sheet. do it man!!!

[SteveDX89]

count me in man. pull your b16 and make templates of those PRI mounts! i'm sure that's all Hasport needs to make some real quality mounts. do it man!!!

Better get 9 friends first. Will have to do it as a group buy.

[ICEMAN707]

hmmm i dont really need to have it made. i can find a local machine shop to make me some. i just need a spec sheet on the PRI mounts . like i said, i'd pay $100 for a spec sheet...provided it's extremely accurate.

also, i dont wanna waste money on buying mix and match axles. does anyone in here really exactly know which 2 axles fit the 3gee with a B-series engine?

[88tandx]

shit, 100 bux?? id give you my first born... provided i spend enough time away from my car and this forum to find me a wife. but seriously ill chip in for mounts/spec sheet/anything that makes me able to put in a b-series. so much talk about all this stuff on the forums and noone ever doing nething about it. get 'er done!

-joe

[gp02a0083]

hi everyone , even tho im a n00b to the whole import stuff i was sondisering the b 16 swap for my 89 hatchie wehn i get out of college. but really if u thing issues with axel lengths and such is gonna be a problem go to a local body shop and ask if u can have a printout o the front end engine bay and geometry (i should know working for a few years in a body shop) it basically is a CAD drawing with measurments . but yah my hatchie might be a canadiate for a swap soon the engine had 150k on it but as with all hondas i guess it still is runnin good lol. hey i didnt know there was some one from manalapin on here anyone else fairly close to freehold and or jackson?

[88tandx]

new jersey rolling deep up in here. i hope this guy gets back to us soon cuz i keep getting my hopes everytime someone is like I KNOW HOW WE CAN DO B-SERIES SWAPS!!! and then i find out he really doesnt or people say they'll do group buy or get schematics and it nevers works out.

i graduated from freehold highschool last year. you know any cats from there?

-Joe

[mouchyn]

new jersey rolling deep up in here. i hope this guy gets back to us soon cuz i keep getting my hopes everytime someone is like I KNOW HOW WE CAN DO B-SERIES SWAPS!!! and then i find out he really doesnt or people say they'll do group buy or get schematics and it nevers works out.

i graduated from freehold highschool last year. you know any cats from there?

-Joe

here, i'll do a write up.

1. take measurements of the b series engine you want to use. length, width, height, everything.
2. take measurements of the engine bay
3. measure from the hub to where the transmission would be.
4. find honda axles that come close to your measurements
5. using your selected axles, figure out where in the engine bay your b series motor has to sit
6. now that you know where the motor has to sit, mark where mounts have to be installed on the car
7. figure out mount angle. this shouldn't be hard since the a20 sits damn neat straight up and down. the 3g has a pretty high hood.
8. (assuming you don't have a welder) take the car and stock mounts to a machine shop. tell them where you want the stock mounts welded to the car and what angle they need to be. The tech will fabricate adpating brackets and stuff for you. It shouldn't cost you more than a couple hundred bucks.
9. bring the car home.
10. swap out ECU and wiring harness.
11. swap out any parts in the 3G engine bay that are not compatible with the b series engine or ECU.
12. install engine
13. install axles and reassemle suspension
14. drive your b series powered 3G

[88tandx]

you make it sound, so, easy. im still hoping this guy comes through with his pri mounts and we can make nice ass billet ones and everyone can enjoy the b-series goodness

[mouchyn]

it IS easy. there's ALL kinds of room in the 3G accord engine bay. maybe it's because i come from the 3G prelude community. The super low hood line of the 3G prelude requires that the b20a engine in there lean back 18 degrees. Making mounts for something like that in a cramped engine bay is a little more difficult, but still, people do it all the time. very cheaply.

the 3G community doesn't bother with the b series engines, though. they're gutless. Most just go right for the h22. I mean, if you have to make totally custom mounts and axles anyway, why go with an engine that only makes 15 lbs more of torque than the stock motor?

-i'm pretty sure you could use the driver side mount on a b16.
-the front sub frame on the accord is wide open. position the rubber insulator wherever it needs to go, drill holes and bolt it down. two out of 4 done
-there isn't even a tranny mount on the passenger side on the accord. all you have to do is weld a bracket/mount over there wherever you need it.
-on the back of the engine, the rear engine bay subframe is also wide open. either weld or bolt down your insulator there and you're good to go. engine is in place
-make the axles fit
-and you're done.

i'm going to the junk yard this weekend and getting some pics and measurements of a b series engine. i'll post up drawings.

sheesh. not everything needs to be "bolt-in." exercise a little creativity. i bet you would be surprised what happens.

[diegoaccord]

the 3G community doesn't bother with the b series engines, though. they're gutless. Most just go right for the h22

3G community doesn't bother? That's a laugh, oh the A20 is so high and mighty, that a lowly B16A isn't worth a bother.

How many H22's are there? 1, maybe another on the way. You make it seem as though H22 Accords are plentiful. You realize that the main limiting factor is money? Most can't do a B series, because of money, not because they don't want to. You give each member here a $2000 certificate and tell them "You can only use this on your 3G." 98% would have a B16, or B18(LS version).

[mouchyn]

i was talking about the 3G prelude. read my post closer, bud. the b16 just doesn't make enough torque to move the prelude well enough. 3G prelude people don't even bother. They just go right for the h22.

[SteveDX89]

It's not as easy as you say it is. The B series tranny is much bigger than the A20 tranny. I have stock belt clearance on mine but the tranny is almost against the frame rail. Pulling the tranny with the engine in would prove to be extremely difficult if not impossible. There is plenty of room front to back but side to side is another story.