Engine stalls when hitting idle...

[GBs863drLxi]

I've been working on my lxi hatch for 2 straight days getting it tuned up an what not, but it will not keep running when it hits idle speed!
I'll start it up, give it some gas, and it will run for about 10 seconds, drop to idle, then stall out. What is the probable cause?

I have new plugs, wires, filter, fuel filter, water pump, new fluids, cap and rotor...

I think my distributor is not working properly, or myn fuel pressure regulator/ injectors aren't functioning right...What do you guys think?

Much needed help here..Thanks!

[AccordNut]

sounds like a fuel problem, its getting choked up somewhere maybe the fuel pump?

[GBs863drLxi]

sounds like a fuel problem, its getting choked up somewhere maybe the fuel pump?

So how hard is it to replace? Is it inline pump or in the tank? Haven't looked under the car yet, so just asking...
Advanced Auto has them for $105.00 @ the cheapest price... does that sound right?

[Oldblueaccord]

So how hard is it to replace? Is it inline pump or in the tank? Haven't looked under the car yet, so just asking...
Advanced Auto has them for $105.00 @ the cheapest price... does that sound right?

Have you had your battery unhooked? Mine won't idle unless i drive it 30 miles or more everytime i unhook the battery.



wp

[snow_man_20]

Have you had your battery unhooked? Mine won't idle unless i drive it 30 miles or more everytime i unhook the battery.



wp

That is the funkiest thing i have ever read, i wonder why it does that???

[MattsAccord]

So how hard is it to replace? Is it inline pump or in the tank? Haven't looked under the car yet, so just asking...
Advanced Auto has them for $105.00 @ the cheapest price... does that sound right?

It's in the tank and its super easy. That price is good.

[Oldblueaccord]

That is the funkiest thing i have ever read, i wonder why it does that???

dunno i need to post about it. I had it since 92 its always done that. MInes an 88 lxi btw.


wp

[GBs863drLxi]

I'm thinking its not the fuel pump, but maybe the relay...
I have to change the PCV valve first, then clean the EGR valve, then check the relay for broken solder connections. I'll resolder and maybe that will help.

I had an 88 Jetta that ran fine, but one day it would cut out when dropping to idle, and it was the relay for fuel pump, so its probably the cuase here, too! I'll update as soon as its a little warmer out!

[GBs863drLxi]

Well I replaced the PCV valve today and the car started to run better, but then it would cut out after a while. It might still have some bad gas in it, cause I haven't put new gas in it yet cause it isn't registered or insured.

I think the alternator belt is either too tight or loose, or even alternator is dying. I haven't checked codes yet, but the clock and interior lights start flickering as the idle drops down around 500 rpms. Rpms then fluctuate a bit up and down, then the engine shuts down.

What is going on here?

The fuel pump is working fine. Just seems like there is something loading down the belt system/alternator.
Also, when I reconnected the power steering belt, the engine would start up then immediately shut off. I had to hit the gas a bit to get the engine to turn over. just wierd, but what do you guys think? Alternator and belt?

[syclinsam]

https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?p=503750#post503750

[syclinsam]

would a faulty alternator or belt cause the car to stall out after starting?

Would the distributor cause the car to stall out? When it starts it revs ok and doesn't sound like it is missing untill it drops near idle range.

What have I missed? Again, I am getting no codes and no dummy lights.



HELP!!!!

sam

[shepherd79]

you may have a vacuum leak somewhere.
the only other thing you can do is remove PS and AC belts and see if that helps.
I know when my AC froze up on me, my car didn't want to idle

[smufguy]

Here are the things to check.

1. With the car turned on, and before it dies, check on the battery terminal how much voltage you are putting out.

2. Take apart the Distributor and see if you find anything red powerdy stuff in it

3. swap out an ignition coil and see if it works.

4. Also the fast idle might be screwing up so see what happened to it.

5. On the top of the Throttle Body, there is a small screw, turn it COUNTER CLOCKWISE and see if the idle holds. (((This screw is the idle stop screw)))

6. Bend below your driver seat and see if you got any codes on the initial run.

[syclinsam]

hey guys thanks for the quick reply.

I did check the distributor cap, there was a fine layer of red powder, I cleaned it out used a little di-electric grease on the contacts and re-installed it, has not made a difference. Does the red powder mean the distributor is going / or is bad?

I have changed the ignition coil and it did not make any difference. (least I have a new coil for when it does run)

After each 30 second run I have been checking for codes but since fixing the coolent temp sensor there have not been any, and I have reset the ecu.

I read it helps to remove the idle screw and spray inside with cleaner, I'll try that and then see if I can get the car to run long enough to mess with the idle screw while running.

I will try the AC PS belt trick see if that gives me any answers. All my vacuum hoses look good but I'll double check.

thanks again for some ideas

[syclinsam]

I just put a new battery in it today with a new positive cable. If I can keep it running long enough I'll check the voltage.

Should I look for that red powder throughout the distributor or just in the cap? and does that mean it is bad?

[Accord_Beater]

i had similar problems, and it resulted from the PCV valve and air filter.
If you replaced your PCV valve, try the air filter now.
I originally change my air filter when i bought the car, then it started running like shit.
I found out that the PCV valve was stuck open, and too much airflow was getting through, so when i changed the pcv valve, it fixed the problem, and it now runs smooth.

[Accord_Beater]

Also for the distributor cap, if you tend to see moisture getting in there, take the cap off, and spray it with a bit of wd-40 (it will clear all the moisture out of there, and keep it dry inside the cap).

[syclinsam]

https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?p=503750#post503750

[smufguy]

so let me review this again, for the fast idle, its fine right? then once it gets out of fast idle, it dies? as in once its warmed up and the valve closes, your car just dies? seems like you are not getting air. Is your IAC (the unit right in front of the intake manifold) working right? Also, try cleaning out your TB and see what it does.