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Thread: it is final here Civic shocks/springs

  1. #1

    Justin86's Avatar
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    Exclamation it is final here Civic shocks/springs

    Well we all hope this day would come and it is now here, no more OEM quality suspension. Well this will not be all bolt on as I wished but nothing that some grinding can achomplish.

    parts needed
    86-89 accord top shock mounts F&R
    86-89 accord front lower A-arm
    92-95 civic shocks/springs. F&R
    92-95 civic front shock pinch forks


    So the front civic is a taller then the accord and the rear is shorter. The rear is pretty straight forward only thing that it needs is to have the lower shock legs extended. Without that the rear will be dropped 3", so if you extend the legs 2" it will drop it 1" and the shock will still be at max height will little chance of bottoming out.
    Here you can see the difference at full height.......


    The front take more work since it is taller. Take the civic front pinch forks and grind off the inside of it, a 4.5" angle grinder works great for this and they are cheap to get.

    Then take the accord lower A-arm and grind it down on both sides where the pinch fork mounts to it. Do so until the pinch fork fits nicely over the A-arm.

    It is also recomended that you grind off the top of the pinch fork to help lower it more. On the civic shock where the spring mounts it 5/8" of an inch heigher, so chopping off the pinch fork 3/8" will help bring the spring back close to it's original location.

    The front civic shock is 2.5" taller then the accord so we need to prevent it from bottoming out. This little mod works great for it.

    What it does is change the mounting location of the shock rod, an easy way to prevent it from bottoming out. Do to this you need a metal saw (hand or mechanical), welder, and either a die/dremel grinder or gas cutter.

    Take your front top mounts remove all the ruber bushings from it. On the bottom side there is the shock mounting point and this needs to be cut off and used again. Next take a peice of round pipe, 2" diameter and .120" wall. cut a peice 2.75" long. The peice you cut off the shock mount now needs to be welded to that peice of pipe. With that done weld it to the top of the shock mount base. With that done it will give the 2.5" needed to make the shock ride at full height and an extra 1" to prevent bottoming out. Now to get that larger 2" pipe to fit throught takes some grinding. The stock hole needs to be enlarged to a little over 2" diameter. It will come close to the 3 holes for the shock mount but won't compromise the holes.


    Even with peice of pipe up there it won't hit the hood long as you don't make that section of pipe longer then 2.875". It will also still work with your strut bar but it might take some grinding to enlarge the inside hole to fit over the pipe. It is important that you make it so the front top mount can be removed, other wise you can remove or put on a strut bar. That also means everytime you need to remove the strut bar you also need to pull the shock/spring.
    Lastly this mod is best suited for adjustable coilovers only. As mention above the spring mounting locations are different on the civic shocks. With the front they are 5/8" higher up and on the rear they are 1.25" lower then stock. By cutting off the top of the front pinch fork and on the rear you can make the shock arms longer, it will work with the accord lowering springs. The civic lowering springs will not work. On the front pinch forks you can cut off a max off 3/8" so that will make it 1/4" higher. With the rear you would want to make the legs 4' longer that way you still have an equal drop front and rear.
    I also checked on 4g accord shocks/springs and they are all to tall esp in the front. The rear 4g shock could work but you will need to use 10" coils instead on 7" tall coils and you will have to do that same mod on the front to the rear to stop it from bottoming out. But the 4G rear will mount up with out having to have the lower legs extended or changes in any way. The 4g hubs are another thing that just might work, lets see if I can get ahold of some.
    I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.



  2. #2
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    craziness justin.
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  3. #3
    SEi User racerx's Avatar
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    i can't believe the hood won't hit that thing...
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  4. #4
    SEi User frankie89's Avatar
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    that look very weird sticking out like that!!
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    I VOWED TO OWN A 3G AGIAN AND I WILL.... STAY TUNED...

  5. #5


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    Good leg work man. thats great.

    I went ot the ricer speed shop a while back and the had Aluminium lower A arms I'd assume for civics. Could they be swaped in maybe they look really close to ours shape and all and save some grinding not that I dont like to grind or anything.....?

    And just as a suggestion since your into fabbing please look into taking a welding course. Theres 30 and 60 hour courses at your local tech school and there very informative. I thkn youd really dig it.



    wp

  6. #6

    NXRacer's Avatar
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    there's gotta be something easier then that. . . .
    Nothin' 2 Old Racing

  7. #7

    HostileJava's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NXRacer
    there's gotta be something easier then that. . . .
    The back looks easy enough, the welding and cutting where it mounts at the top in the front kinda bothers me though, not to mention that most strut bars are not going to fit there now.

  8. #8

    Vanilla Sky's Avatar
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    why not just get shortened struts for the front? or something like omnipower coilovers, which are "good" cheap coilovers...

  9. #9


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    Well, I give you the "Torch and Weld" Award for this month, that's for sure!

    Looking at that front mount, I had visions of the Big Pothole, quickly followed by the Big Hole in the Hood.

  10. #10

    Justin86's Avatar
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    yea ignore my welds I wazn't trying to make them look good, just enough so I could get the effect of whats is needed.

    from what I have seen the civic lower arms are longer then ours.

    the strut bars will still work with it and yes it clears the hood.

    Shortened struts might work, but they usally don't cut off a lot and it would need to be cut a minimum of 2.5". It would be easier to have that done but will cost more.
    I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.

  11. #11
    SEi User danronian's Avatar
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    Justin, great job figuring out how to adapt these struts, it makes me wish I could weld.
    75 Malibu for sale, fully restored, $5,500 obo
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  12. #12

    carotman's Avatar
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    Good job!!!!

    I wonder if the Accord 90+ struts would fit better in the front. However, suing parts from one single car is better since spring kits usually come in a set of four.

    http://pages.videotron.com/omus
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    I need these parts!
    https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742

  13. #13

    Justin86's Avatar
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    yea I'll have to steal my bro's 4g for awhile and find out. I'm just not sure if they are too tall or not, hard to tell with them on the car.
    I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.

  14. #14

    Justin86's Avatar
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    Ok I checked the 4G accord and they will be easier to use, somewhat. The accord front is basically the same as the civic front so it will require the same parts and mods to make it work. The rear will be easy. It is 1.75" taller then the 3G and the spring mount is 1.5" lower then stock. It is best to change the shock upper mounting point higher in the rear (2.75"), but you could get away with not doing it. Just don't blame me when you blow them from bottoming out.
    I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.

  15. #15

    Vanilla Sky's Avatar
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    so are you saying full coilovers built for a 4gee would work?

  16. #16

    YK86's Avatar
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    I guess it would depend on the coilovers. If the rear strut body is shorter, I could see it working fine in a 3rd gen (would be like using a normal height strut meant for the 3rd gen). I have a pair of OEM front struts and a pair of rear AGX's for the 4th gen lying aorund somewhere if you need actual measurements. I don't have any 3rd gen struts to compare side by side though. I'm using the 3rd gen rear Koni's and coilovers in the 4th gen right now.
    www.b20accord.com

  17. #17

    Justin86's Avatar
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    yea fullbodied coilovers will work. The one difference with spring locations is the front is 5/8" higher and the rear is 1.5" lower with the 4g and civic. So choping the front pinch fork will help and the only thing you can do with the back is get taller coils. Since most systems are adjustable from up to 0-3.5" drop we should be fine and not need different coils.
    I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.

  18. #18

    YK86's Avatar
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    I found the rear AGX's. Sorry it's a poor ms paint edit. Hope I wrote enough so you can fgure out any thing that's missing. I'll look for the fronts tommorrow. Clicking on the thumbnail should lead to a bigger pic.
    www.b20accord.com

  19. #19

    Justin86's Avatar
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    can you measure it fully compressed, I need to know the stroke.
    I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.

  20. #20

    YK86's Avatar
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    That would be the 7 3/4 inches I labeled. So 20 1/4 inches is the compressed height.
    www.b20accord.com

  21. #21

    Justin86's Avatar
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    ok so with out the shock top being modded that will give it 5.25" of travel at full height. Lower it 2" and you still have 3.35" of play, cutting it close, I'd still mod the shock top to be safe.
    I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.

  22. #22

    YK86's Avatar
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    Got some more measurements from the 90 Accord stuff. The Koni yellows allow the perch to be moved up or down 1/2 inch and in the pic, it's at stock height.


    And here's the measurements from the stock 90 Accord front strut.

    www.b20accord.com

  23. #23

    Hash_man_Se_i's Avatar
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    are both that koni yellow and the other from the front? or is the yellow the back << im guessing thats the case

  24. #24

    YK86's Avatar
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    The yellow Koni's are for the rear. I sold my AGX rears I had on the first page of this thread. I'm going to be selling my front AGXs too but I'm waiting for the front Konis to come in from calgary beofre i can take them out. The black strut is the front stock one. I'll get measurements from the front Konis as soon as I get them.
    www.b20accord.com

  25. #25

    Justin86's Avatar
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    thanks for the pics I might have to do the same with the stock 3G shocks, helps everyone get a better idea of their differences.
    I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.

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