I read A20 faq about s+s headers and must say they caught my eye I wanted to now who has installed there header and how it turned out $411.00 is steep So I want to make sure it is worth my while going this root then the dreaded pacesetter header
I read A20 faq about s+s headers and must say they caught my eye I wanted to now who has installed there header and how it turned out $411.00 is steep So I want to make sure it is worth my while going this root then the dreaded pacesetter header
"Id Rather Be Blown Than Injected"
so far, strugglebucket is the only person on here i know of with one... hit him up... i don't know if he's installed his, but it looks like a piece of art
He was sent the wrong header I beleive... so he's waiting to get the right one.
- llia
arent S&S's for our cars 4-1 headers?
if thats true then it will help more for the upper rpms.
from what i understand, pacesetter isnt that bad, just bad gaskets and it neads a ball joint
Pacesetter also has a problem with corrosion not to mention the lack of as flex pipe. S&S doesnt have a flex either but you can always add one to both. I plan on selling my DC as soon as I get things slowed down here and order the S&S
vinny, keep us updated... i'd really like it if you could do a couple side-by side pics and a short overall comparison... that would be really great
There really isnt any visual comparison as they are 2 completely different designs.
yeah, but you can demonstrate pictorally that they are two different beasts... that and i want to see how well the DC holds up over time... i know adam's rusted... that's the only one i've heard that out of, though...
Anything will rust in the right conditions
'88 LX-i Coupe --- LS/Vtec
'08 Accord EX-L 6-6 --- Daily Duty
of course it will, but one of the reasons it wasn't expected was because it was a ceramic coated ($$) header if i remember correctly...
I think my new stainless custom one will be tac welded together and handed off to a professional to finish the welds.
- llia
stupid question but when you guys say flex pipe thats the mesh thing on the down pipe correct??
The 4-1 dosn't mean that it is a top end header. it all has to do with the primary lenghts. I can make a 4-1 that has killer low end and one that will make big numbers top end. The best design is the 4-2-1, it has a broader powerband then the 4-1
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
i have the s&s installed. i'll try to post some pics soon.
the carb and fi headers are the same, you just have to specify that you want two o2 bungs when you order if you're fi 88-89. the egr and air bungs do not come drilled.
i wouldn't recommend the s&s if you want to keep your egr. the bung on mine was the wrong size fitting and nowhere near lining up with the positioning of the stock egr piping.
Originally Posted by Justanothermike
my A20 is not SLOW. ur A20 is slow.
Strugglebucket,
How did you get around the EGR problem? What did you use in place of the stock EGR? TIA.
Since no one carrys the DC Sport headers, and the Pacesetter headers kinda suck (no offense intended to people w/ Pacesetters), I'm sure I'm not the only one curious about the S&S headers.
The Watcher sees all and knows all. I like to watch!
Hey strugglebucket, when is your next smog check? I'd be curious to see if you can pass with it on. The S&S headers haven't been tested for CA emmisions thus they are "not approved aftermarket".
But if the EGR dosen't line up, that would be a big problem. What a pain in the ass if you would have to change out to the stock header just to pass emmisions test (Stupid CA). Unless you have a test station on your side.
Oh, so the EGR is not hooked up? I get it.
No emissons testing here ... yet! SB 1553 is running through the legislature right now, it purpose is to establish guidelines for emissions testing. So I hope there is a way around this problem, because I would hate to get the header and then be forced to take it off to pass emissions (when the legislature passes an emissions testing bill in the future).
Peace.
Last edited by TheWatcher; 04-19-2005 at 01:25 AM. Reason: Spelling
The Watcher sees all and knows all. I like to watch!
as of now i am planning on swapping back in the stock header when i go to pass smog. yes, it's a pain but not really that big of a deal to me. after all i'm going to have to change the fpr and the intake anyway.
i still may try and make the egr work. i got a fitting from a geo metro that is the same size as the bung i have and i got some extra egr pipe to make cuts with so it will line up. the problem is i haven't been able to weld it. it just melts like wax. i thought about using some sort of tubing to couple it but the highest temp i could find was like 500deg for pure silicone and i still don't think that would be enough.
anyway, it's not the end of the world, i just wonder if i may have to change my plugs to a different heat range with the egr disabled and i'm not sure how to get around the code. i don't want it running open loop all the time or anything funky like that.
Originally Posted by Justanothermike
my A20 is not SLOW. ur A20 is slow.
how about custom fabing a tube that goes all the way down to where the fitting is and have a custom bracket there??? an idea mabey, kinda what i was thinkin if i gotten headers without the bung for it.
Originally Posted by Strugglebucket
Well I was talking to gordon recently since he came by work to buy some parts. He has the B20A grey hatch from Openloopmotorsports and I manage to get some talking done with him. I was talking about how he BARed a B20A to be smog legal in california and we ran EGR. He told me that he got the EGR from a prelude for the DC sports header and welded it to the accord b20a pipe. I'm not sure how he welded it but he did, so it is possible. If he ever comes by again, I'll ask him again.
yeah, do what magny says and custom bend a tube, just as you would for new brake lines...
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