I have a problem with my #1 cylinder on my Se-i. It has no compression so I think it's a valve or gasket or hole in the cylinder. When you take the head off do you have to take the intake manifold off with the head then unbolt the bottom nuts on the manifold to get it off? Can the bottom nuts that hold the intake manifold on the head be removed while the head is still on the block? I don't want to take the intake manifold out with the head if I don't have to.
Did you want to leave the manifold in to avoid disconnecting the fuel, vacuum lines, sensors, etc or so you won't have to lift both parts out at once? It may be possible to remove those nuts with the head installed, but I didn't think it was too bad to leave them together until the whole assembly is out of the car.
Mike
yeah, why don't you want to remove them both? it only takes two minutes to disconnect the wires, lines, brackets and stuff.
i would just leave the intake mani on the head and remove them both at once.
Chris
http://personalwebs.myriad.net/mouchyn/accordsig.jpg
Thanks for your reply. I just disconnected everything.
yeah remove them both at once. I bet you either have a broken rod or a bent valve or somthing
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
It was carbon deposits under the intake valve. At least that what it looks like without removing the valves. It couold be bent as well but I doubt it.
that would be strange
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
Well I found out what caused my intake valve to remain slightly open. After I removed the intake manifold I could see a small hose clamp wrapped around an intake valve causing the valve to stay open slightly. The clamp must have come from the hoses I replaced a few days before that on the back side of the throttle body. I removed the air filter housing and filter for room to work. The honda spring clamps are very hard to get at back there and I finally just destroyed it trying to get it off. It few off finally but must have landed in the air filter housing still on the throttle body. I thought it landed on the floor. I bet that's not happened to anyone here. Anyways, I'm having the cylinder head cleaned, tested and the valves and seats ground.
nope never had that happen to me. Sounds like a good project while your at it. Id also replace the valve seals and the cam seal since you have everything out. Only use honda seals, aftermarket ones will leak
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
Wooooooooo....
Your saying you had a hose clamp stuck in the head holding open the valve. That is crazy..
I think the them hose clamps come off better with a a/c disconnect tool. Kind of has a racheting handle on it & squeezes together.
See if you can get 3 angle valve job with new seats pressed in..
Last edited by 88Accord-DX; 04-25-2005 at 09:12 AM.
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Those Honda clamps suck to get off. Would have been nice to spend a little more time & money engineering some better clamps.
Last edited by SteveDX89; 04-25-2005 at 09:44 AM.
No projects. Life consumes my time and money.
Yes the clamps suck. I've replaced them all. I am also having the head cleaned, new seals and guides, seats ground and and the cam bearings checked. The cam seal was replaced when I had all the oil seals replaced during my timing belt changed about 2 months ago. The cylinder walls look like new although I have not measured them yet. The head and cylinders look more like they have 50K miles on them rather than 231K
Well I got her put back together after having the cylinder head machined and cleaned. The car runs great now. I replaced the pcv valve at the same time and replaced the remaining hoses I still had left to do. Probably get another 200k miles out of it now. I also had them resurface the head and that took .010 off. Should have a little better compresion now.
Last edited by Blkblurr; 05-08-2005 at 05:11 PM.
its sooooo worth it to do the valve guide seals. i already knew to do that when disassembling the valves and stuff. my friend had his '92 accord's head fixed or something. the timing belt broke and bent valves. they used the original guide seals. now it smokes like a hard tuned diesel when he steps on it. guess he just wasted $1200.
Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
*Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap
I agree. I had everything replaced or machined.
Tell your friend something. If wants to buy a valve spring compressor. He can change his valve guide sealOriginally Posted by HondaBoy
Get each cylinder to it's TDC when doing "that" particular one. So the valve doesn't slide down the cylinder. Compress the valve spring, remove the keeper & he can change each valve guide seal.
Nice looking head work Blkblurr!
Last edited by 88Accord-DX; 05-08-2005 at 08:14 PM. Reason: forgot to put seal behind guide
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All it takes, is a simple mistake. But I'm glad that you didn't decide to scrap it. Alot of people would have. Good to hear the report of the cylinders.
Phil
I plan on keeping it for a long time. I bought it new and now it runs so good, why get rid of it.
Last edited by Blkblurr; 05-09-2005 at 06:19 AM.
did you have your block machined too? those block surfaces and cylinders look shiny!
No. Your looking at the new head gasket sitting on the block and I cleaned the piston surfaces.
A couple of years ago my trusty '67 Ariens snow blower died suddenly, on the last lap of the last snow of the year (a friendly machine will always die at home). When I got around to looking at it, the choke disc, which was attached by a little screw, was MIA. I never did find it. The screw, however, got sucked into the engine and stuck under the intake valve. Didn't bend anything, but when cranking the motor would chuff back out the carb.
Taking a head off of a flathead engine...priceless!
Hal
Yes I feel your pain!! Ha Ha
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