Some advice needed for an upcoming 3g owner..

**Acid X** · 04-21-2005, 02:30 PM

Okay, well soon i'll be buying an 88 Accord LXi. I want to get these rims:

http://www.buywheelstoday.com/products/?id=303

They have the required bolt pattern, 4x100, as well as 4x114.3.. And then i want to get these tires:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....mpare1=yes.com

They're 205/50/16. They're also the cheapest i can find, which is why i want them. I've read alot that 205/50/16 might cause the tires to rub, but then i read the following post taht says the bigger tires may actually make the speed readout more accurate:

https://www.3geez.com/showpost.php?p=448830&postcount=14

This has gotten me all confused. Am i really safe buying these bigger tires, and will they really make my speedometer more accurate?

Also, i'm really new to cars, as this will be my first car (that i own), and i've never done any type of mods to any cars.. But i wanted to lower this one, and wanted to know what's the cheapest and best way to go about doing it. Think anyone can help me out on this?

Thanks a bunch guys!

**NXRacer** · 04-21-2005, 02:44 PM

the only time you're speedo will change is if your wheel and tire combo changes the outside diameter from stock. as long as you dont go bigger then a 17" wheel with a low profile tire, it should be the same. The bigger wheel plus the lower profile tire should keep you right about the same outside diameter as the stock wheel and tire combo.

Those tires are an OK choice, but i'd think about going with the ecsta 712's. They handle water better and they have better traction IMO. You might have rubbing issues with a 205 tire. I wanted to go wider then a 195 but since i was lowered so much it would rub. If you're not lowered much (or at all) then you should be able to run a 205 without much problem.

**w261w261** · 04-21-2005, 02:47 PM

The best advice I can give you is get the car set up right before you go and buy tires and wheels, unless the tires that are on there are totally shot. These cars are very reliable WHEN THEY ARE SET UP RIGHT, but getting them that way can cost a few bucks. Tune it up, check for rotted bushings in the suspension, look for torn CV boots, make sure the CV joints are ok, check the exhaust, etc etc. You don't want to spend all your money on something that isn't really needed, until you're sure that the stuff that *is* needed is working.

**Acid X** · 04-21-2005, 03:10 PM

Well the car has been kept in awesome shape... It's had its oil changed every 3000 miles since the car was bought, and to top it off, it only has 100k miles.

Im not sure really if the car needs new wheels or anything, but as far as im concerned, i WANT new rims. I'm not much of a honda person, but if i do drive one i want it to look good. Know what i mean?

As far as those 205's, would i have a high probability of rubbing?

Also, noone really answered my quesiton, but maybe i didnt put it out there right.. basically, will the 205/50's be more accurate than 205/45's?

Also, i wouldnt be able to fit a 195/xx/16 on that rim, since the width of the rim is 205.. Right?

***AZmike*** · 04-21-2005, 03:23 PM

Originally Posted by Acid X

Well the car has been kept in awesome shape... It's had its oil changed every 3000 miles since the car was bought, and to top it off, it only has 100k miles.

Im not sure really if the car needs new wheels or anything, but as far as im concerned, i WANT new rims. I'm not much of a honda person, but if i do drive one i want it to look good. Know what i mean?

As far as those 205's, would i have a high probability of rubbing?

Also, noone really answered my quesiton, but maybe i didnt put it out there right.. basically, will the 205/50's be more accurate than 205/45's?

Also, i wouldnt be able to fit a 195/xx/16 on that rim, since the width of the rim is 205.. Right?

The 205-16-45 are 0.2% larger diameter than stock. The 205-15-50 are 3.7% larger than stock. Assuming your speedometer is working right, the 45 series tires will produce a more accurate reading. Since they are stock diameter you should have zero probability of rubbing (if your wheel has the right offset). A 195 width tire may fit on that wheel, but there's no reason to try.

**Busted_Blue** · 04-21-2005, 04:19 PM

Make sure you get +42 offset. Our stock offset is +40mm and it is a 7inch rim so it would be a good idea to get the +42 versus the +38. The rim will stick out 2mm more but that means the inner fender will have an extra 2mm of space too.

Falken Ziex 512 could be a good choice for you. $63 for the 205/45/16 size. 711 are great economy tires and the Falkens are Ultra High performance All Season Tires. The extra 10 bucks for each tire is worth it in my opinion. Ziex 512 tires are comparable to Escta 712s not 711s. I would go with the falkens because I never liked the way Kumho sticks to the road for any of the cars I've driven equipped with them. Also by going with falken you have the closest tire size (205/45/16) to stock diameter so you win for the extra 40bucks. LOL, sounds like I'm selling you them to you. I put my word behind those tires since I've used two sets of 512 already.

you can purchase them here:
www.falkentires.com

**Acid X** · 04-21-2005, 06:13 PM

Those tires are currently out of stock on that site, and wont be available until late may! All other websites i look on for these tires have outrageous prices. :\

**keruhas184** · 04-21-2005, 06:50 PM

Originally Posted by Acid X

Im not sure really if the car needs new wheels or anything, but as far as im concerned, i WANT new rims. I'm not much of a honda person, but if i do drive one i want it to look good. Know what i mean?

Yeah, we know what you mean. But the truth is, if you're going to have stock suspension, even 16s will make your car look like a 4x4. So that means you want to lower it. To do that, look into spending $400-$800 when all is said and done. And if you go the cheap way of cutting springs or using stock struts, you'll be paying even more to lower it in the long run. Oh, by all means it is great to have a car that looks good. I thougt the same thing, before some retards tried to steal mine because I had 17s on at the time. Good thing I had carb problems then, so they couldn't start it.

So do you really have that much money to spend on wheels, lowered suspension, and a good alarm system so that no one jacks your car? But hey, good luck to you anyway, and post up some pics if you do decide to do go through with it

**Acid X** · 04-21-2005, 06:52 PM

Well, can you recommend the cheapest and best way to lower the car? I already know the car's going to look like a 4x4... Which is why i also asked advice on loweirng it.

Any lowering advice?

**89ACCORDVTECH** · 04-21-2005, 07:08 PM

DROPZONE lowering springs on ebay $89 for 1.5to2.5 inch drop. My opinion is that u lower your car first, then buys rims and tires. Because you dont want to spend money on wheels and tires ,then lower your car only to find out your tires rub.I think you should get a book and do it yourself it will be a great learning expierience for you.But if you do get your car aligned front and back.

**Acid X** · 04-21-2005, 07:18 PM

Wouldn't i need to buy shocks to go with those? Also, are they quality, and will they last?

**keruhas184** · 04-21-2005, 07:33 PM

Originally Posted by Acid X

Any lowering advice?

https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=11093

https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=7856

If you want the cheapest that will handle OK, then get tokico shocks with Neuspeed or H&R springs.

**Acid X** · 04-21-2005, 08:11 PM

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33590

Are these the tokico shocks you speak of? According to one of those threads, they apparently arent that good... Are you sure?

Also, these are the right springs, right?

http://www.cartunerz.com/cart.asp?productID=50054

H&R 1986-89 Accord 1.5in drop front and rear..

**keruhas184** · 04-21-2005, 09:23 PM

Yes, you got those parts correct. Tokicos aren't that great, but they will do the job if you're going for the looks. The right shocks though, Konis, will cost you at least $550, and that is if the group buy goes through. And yet, if you're serious about lowering your car, you should really consider doing it right the first time and investing all that money.

**Acid X** · 04-21-2005, 09:25 PM

I mainly just want to lower it for the looks. I dont want it to look like a fricken 4x4.. haha. Anyway, can those tokicos be used front and back?

***AZmike*** · 04-21-2005, 09:39 PM

Originally Posted by Acid X

I mainly just want to lower it for the looks. I dont want it to look like a fricken 4x4.. haha. Anyway, can those tokicos be used front and back?

Yes. They do ok in the back for the softer of aftermarket springs mentioned (H&R, Neuspeed). However, the front springs are too stiff for them to control and you will end up with a little bouncing over bumps and a somewhat floaty ride. How much do you want to lower your car?

**Acid X** · 04-21-2005, 10:38 PM

About 1.5 to 1.75 Inches. Would it be safe to drive with the Tokico's all the way around?

**shepherd79** · 04-22-2005, 04:08 AM

if i was you, i would go with Intrax springs. I had them and they handle great on stock struts. with Tokico ones it will be even better.

when it comes to lowering car you can't go cheap. if you go cheap at the begining you will pay for that later.

the stock spring rates are 211 lb for the front and 117 lb for the rear.
Intrax springs, 247 lb front and 97-257 lb in the rear. the rear springs are progressive.
only a hand full people had them here. I don't know why people don't buy those springs.

even after you drop your car, you will have to think about camber correction. you will have to get prelude arms, and they are getting rare and expensive now days.

**Acid X** · 04-22-2005, 10:19 AM

Can't an alignment correct the camber problem?

Also, where would i find these intrax springs, and would it really be safe to use them on the stock shocks?

***AZmike*** · 04-22-2005, 10:35 AM

In stock form there is no adjustment for camber on our cars. The why we get prelude upper control arms for the front--they add this adjustment.

**w261w261** · 04-22-2005, 11:19 AM

what about the camber-adjusting pieces you see on eBay? Do they work as well?

**Acid X** · 04-22-2005, 08:48 PM

What about the rear though? If the front camber is going to get messed up, then the rear ones will too.. Right?

**88Accord-DX** · 04-22-2005, 11:54 PM

Originally Posted by Acid X

What about the rear though? If the front camber is going to get messed up, then the rear ones will too.. Right?

Yeah, not much. You can put some washers behind the upper arm to where it bolts to the frame. I didn't see enough camber issues on my car to mess with it. My opinion though.

Originally Posted by w261w261

what about the camber-adjusting pieces you see on eBay? Do they work as well?

They should, but their little high on prices to me..

**Acid X** · 04-23-2005, 12:04 AM

Hmm. Would i still need camber adjustments even if i bought new shocks also?

I dont want to have to spend 800$ just to drop the car 1.5 inches. :\

**88Accord-DX** · 04-23-2005, 12:20 AM

Originally Posted by Acid X

Hmm. Would i still need camber adjustments even if i bought new shocks also?
I dont want to have to spend 800$ just to drop the car 1.5 inches. :\

You won't need much camber adjustment at 1.5" drop. The cheapest route to me is get some Prelude upper control arms (87'-89' not sure) at your nearest "junkie", then put -3 ; 3/8" fender washers on both sides of inner/outer part of arm . There is a how to on here. I wouldn't worry about the back camber to much,( you make the call there) but have it alighned afterwards though.

BTW; Your camber isn't changing with new shocks.. Get some Konis.

Tokicos should be ok for that drop.