part of me wants to kick your butt for having such a sick ride.
the other side does this
part of me wants to kick your butt for having such a sick ride.
the other side does this
lol yeah that's why i like drilled rotors. the slotted ones eat up your brake pads like carving blades. for a daily driver like this, the drilled rotors are the way to go. they make dimpled rotors to give the look of drilled, but they dont dessipate brake dust and heat like the real drilled ones do. i'm still waiting on my cross drilled rear rotors and steel braided brake lines. should be even more of an improvement. pics coming soon!
Sick as hell! Beautiful car, you have my vote in June!
Originally Posted by ICEMAN707
UPDATE May 17th 2005:
New Brembo rear cross-drilled rotors and stainless steel braided brake lines:
New pics of brake system installed in car coming soon. Installing them today.
Last edited by ICEMAN707; 05-17-2005 at 11:31 AM.
Hey what kind of stainless steel brakes are those. The fittings + brackets look like metal. How much you pay for those? Im jealous. =P
Yes the fittings are copper/brass plated steel and the front brackets are anodized blue aluminum. I got them from a seller on eBay "NightsAuto". I think they are Magnum SS brake lines.
Just a warning though, if you order from that guy it would take you a month to get them . That's how long it took to get mine. He forgot about my order until I bitched a week later. Then took another week and a half to get it here to FL cus I didn't know he lives in Canada. Had to go through customs and all that bullshit. But all in all, I guess it was well worth the wait cus they seem to be really top notch quality. I even got free semi-metallic brake pads that I didn't order. I guess it's his mistake or a way to apologize for the long ass delay.
Last edited by ICEMAN707; 05-17-2005 at 12:04 PM.
how much did you pay for those lines?
The lines were $66.50, the rotors were $75.
Here's a HOW TO for bleeding brakes:
Supplies Required
You will need the following tools:
· Box-end wrench suitable for your car’s bleeder screws. An offset head design usually works best.
· Extra brake fluid (about 1 pint if you are just bleeding, about 3 if you are completely replacing).
· 12-inch long section of clear plastic tubing, ID sized to fit snugly over your car’s bleeder screws.
· Disposable bottle for waste fluid.
· One can of brake cleaner.
· One assistant (to pump the brake pedal).
Vehicle Preparation and Support
1. Loosen the lug nuts of the road wheels and place the entire vehicle on jackstands. Be sure that the car is firmly supported before going ANY further with this procedure!
2. Remove all road wheels.
3. Install one lug nut backward at each corner and tighten the nut against the rotor surface. Note that this step is to limit caliper flex that may distort pedal feel.
4. Open the hood and check the level of the brake fluid reservoir. Add fluid as necessary to ensure that the level is at the MAX marking of the reservoir. Do not let the reservoir become empty at any time during the bleeding process!
Bleeding Process
1. Begin at the corner furthest from the driver and proceed in order toward the driver. (Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.) While the actual sequence is not critical to the bleed performance it is easy to remember the sequence as the farthest to the closest. This will also allow the system to be bled in such a way as to minimize the amount of potential cross-contamination between the new and old fluid.
2. Locate the bleeder screw at the rear of the caliper body (or drum brake wheel cylinder.) Remove the rubber cap from the bleeder screw – and don’t lose it!
3. Place the box-end wrench over the bleeder screw. An offset wrench works best – since it allows the most room for movement.
4. Place one end of the clear plastic hose over the nipple of the bleeder screw.
5. Place the other end of the hose into the disposable bottle.
6. Place the bottle for waste fluid on top of the caliper body or drum assembly. Hold the bottle with one hand and grasp the wrench with the other hand.
7. Instruct the assistant to "apply." The assistant should pump the brake pedal three times, hold the pedal down firmly, and respond with "applied." Instruct the assistant not to release the brakes until told to do so.
8. Loosen the bleeder screw with a brief ¼ turn to release fluid into the waste line. The screw only needs to be open for one second or less. (The brake pedal will "fall" to the floor as the bleeder screw is opened. Instruct the assistant in advance not to release the brakes until instructed to do so.)
9. Close the bleeder screw by tightening it gently. Note that one does not need to pull on the wrench with ridiculous force. Usually just a quick tug will do.
10. Instruct the assistant to "release" the brakes. Note: do NOT release the brake pedal while the bleeder screw is open, as this will suck air back into the system!
11. The assistant should respond with "released."
12. Inspect the fluid within the waste line for air bubbles.
13. Continue the bleeding process (steps 11 through 16) until air bubbles are no longer present. Be sure to check the brake fluid level in the reservoir after bleeding each wheel! Add fluid as necessary to keep the level at the MAX marking. (Typically, one repeats this process 5-10 times per wheel when doing a ‘standard’ bleed.)
14. Move systematically toward the driver – right rear, left rear, right front, left front - repeating the bleeding process at each corner. Be sure to keep a watchful eye on the brake fluid reservior! Keep it full!
15. When all four corners have been bled, spray the bleeder screw (and any other parts that were moistened with spilled or dripped brake fluid) with brake cleaner and wipe dry with a clean rag. (Leaving the area clean and dry will make it easier to spot leaks through visual inspection later!) Try to avoid spraying the brake cleaner DIRECTLY on any parts made of rubber or plastic, as the cleaner can make these parts brittle after repeated exposure.
16. Test the brake pedal for a firm feel. (Bleeding the brakes will not necessarily cure a "soft" or "mushy" pedal – since pad taper and compliance elsewhere within the system can contribute to a soft pedal. But the pedal should not be any worse than it was prior to the bleeding procedure!)
17. Be sure to inspect the bleeder screws and other fittings for signs of leakage. Correct as necessary.
18. Properly dispose of the used waste fluid as you would dispose of used motor oil. Important: used brake fluid should NEVER be poured back into the master cylinder reservoir!
Vehicle Wrap-Up and Road Test
1. Re-install all four road wheels.
2. Raise the entire vehicle and remove jackstands. Torque the lug nuts to the manufacturer’s recommended limit. Re-install any hubcaps or wheel covers.
3. With the vehicle on level ground and with the car NOT running, apply and release the brake pedal several times until all clearances are taken up in the system. During this time, the brake pedal feel may improve slightly, but the brake pedal should be at least as firm as it was prior to the bleeding process.
4. Road test the vehicle to confirm proper function of the brakes. USE CAUTION THE FIRST TIME YOU DRIVE YOUR CAR AFTER MODIFICATION TO ENSURE THE PROPER FUNCTION OF ALL VEHICLE SYSTEMS!
How Often do I Need to Bleed My Brakes?
In closing, here are a few rules of thumb to help you to determine the proper bleeding interval for your particular application:
1. Under normal operating conditions, and without brake system modifications, typical OEM braking systems have been designed to NOT require bleeding for the life of the vehicle unless the system is opened for repair or replacement. If you’re just driving around town or on the highway to work, there is really no need to bleed! There are a few European vehicles which do recommend replacement on a semi-regular basis for other reasons though, so be sure to check in your owner’s manual or at your service center for your particular application.
2. Those who choose to autocross or drive in a sporting manner may choose to upgrade their brake fluid and bleed on an annual basis – this is a good ‘start of the season’ maintenance item for low-speed competitors.
3. If your car sees significant amounts of high-speed braking, or if you choose to participate in driver schools and/or lapping sessions, bleeding prior to each event is a sound decision. More intense drivers at these events may choose to skip right past this step and on to #4…
4. Finally, dedicated race cars should be bled after every track session.
TIP: IF YOU PAINT YOUR CALIPERS. MAKE SURE BRAKE FLUID DOES NOT COME IN CONTACT WITH THEM. ALSO MAKE SURE YOUR HANDS ARE CLEAN OF BRAKE FLUID BEFORE HANDLING THE CALIPERS TO INSTALL OR REMOVE THEM. IF THE BRAKE FLUID EATS UP THE PAINT, YOU HAVE TO START ALL OVER AGAIN. IT'S A BALANCING ACT THAT TAKES TIME TO MASTER.
Last edited by ICEMAN707; 05-20-2005 at 10:55 AM.
I believe that is the wrong order for our cars. I've always believed it was diagonal. At least thats what the Honda Service Manual says for our cars.
"General Rule of Thumb for FWD vehicles: Start with the farthest wheel away (one of the rear wheels) from the master cylinder, then go bleed the diagonal wheel from there (Front), then bleed the other rear wheel, and last bleed the last front wheel."
I dunno, I always start with the rears first cus they are the farthest and I could only lift one part of the car at a time. It'd be hard to do it diagonally unless I have all 4 wheels off the ground. It's worked for me so far. The brakes are sticky with only about 1-2 inch pedal travel to get them to grip tight.
NEW PICS - rotors and steel braided brake lines installed:
BEFORE
AFTER
^ You could barely see the steel braided brake line between the upper left wheel spokes
AEM pads are also installed for the rear but you can't tell by looking at the pics.
Last edited by ICEMAN707; 05-20-2005 at 10:18 AM.
MAY 27, 2005 - more pics:
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