Plz hlp me with this A/C problem.

[Reptile]

Actually after i finally got it converted to the cheap stuff and got it fixed it works ok. But on like a 90+ degree day it needs like 5 minutes to get working well. Also as a side note when ever the A/C is on expecially my car will start to shake. If im in gear like R or D4 or whichever and i come to a stop sign the entire car starts to shake. I think its because the RPM's drop to low (I have a LX and the wonderfull little car doesnt seem to have enough power to sustain itself, this is anoying since i was accustomed to the fast-as-hell LX-i i had just before i got this one), they go a little under 800 i think. It's kind of if the car wants to die on me and then again it doesnt. What is this and how do i fix it. Also does the fact that my car has over 215k on it matter? My car has always done this and i would like to see it stop. Oh, and for some funny reason it wont do it in P, but as i said it will in almost any other gear. Thank you for takeing time out to answer me.

[shepherd79]

sounds like your compresson is going to be dead soon.
i would recomend to take it to some place.

[DBMaster]

You should not have converted to "the cheap stuff." (Oops! I promised not to argue about A/C conversions any more) With the A/C system you have you are going to notice a very significant difference on a 90+ day. If you have the Keihin compressor you will soon wear out the shaft seal as it is not resistant to the chemical composition of R134a. There is a little sticker near the radiator that will tell you whether you have the Keihin or Nippondenso compressor. Either way, our systems do not have the right type of condensor to give you R12 equivalent performance from R134a. One is a chlorinated (R12) refrigerant and the other is hydrocarbon (R134a).

As for the shaking in drive it is almost surely your lower motor mounts. There is one in the front and one in the rear. If you replace those the shaking will get much more tolerable.

Welcome to the board.

[Reptile]

I already fixed the motor mounts. That was part of the problem and after it was fixed it eased up, but it still does it.

[smufguy]

its the compressor working hard man. yeah there has been a debate about the R12 and the R134a, well who is willing to go on a cross country trip to mexixco get some R12s for real cheap? please do call me. well, if u have a keihin which is always on the lx and the dx, ur screwed. but since u have a lxi, u sure have the compat really nice and heavy denso. they should hold for a while, but hey, honda ac was a renound bitch until upto the 5g.

the shaking on the drive and reverse, they dont do it while ur drving right? it only comes up when u have ur foot on the brake and ur in drive right? thtas cause ur engine is working hard to roll the compressor with the new R134. hehehe, have fun.

[Reptile]

So then i need a new compresor for it right? If so then wht type should i try and get? And most importantly how much will it be. Also i do not have an LX-i, that was my old car and i lost it to a redneck kid. I have a 89 LX now.

[DBMaster]

I have an LXi and it came with a Keihin. When it gave up three years ago I got the kit from honda and now I have a Sanden - still charged with R12, though. I am running nice and cool. If you are going to convert there is a bit more to a "proper" R134a conversion than dropping in new refrigerant and oil. It has been talked to death here, though.

You can get the best advice on this at:

http://aircondition.com/

I can still buy R12 with my EPA certification. It is pricey, but if your system is in good shape you should only have to charge it every few years with less than a can. There is still plenty of it out there even though some would like you to think otherwise.

Anyway, the site I mentioned has links to get better alternatives than R134a, anyway. this would be my first choice if I were going to use something other than R12.


http://www.autocool-refrigerants.com/

Take it easy.

[Reptile]

No i had my mechanic do it but he said he may have to put a new condenser on it latter on down the road. Oh well im not worried, this is a 3G Honda Accord and in 6-7 months ill be easily able to afford it.

[smufguy]

for the 3g it was the compressor problem esp the kehin. denso was okay. on the 4g it was the condensor which gave away. hey DBmaster, how much is a R12 can?

[DBMaster]

Last time I bought it I paid $30 a can. I remember buying it for 79 cents a can and using it as propellant for my BB machine gun.