installing 6 1/2" speakers in doors.

[HaShfIeNd]

hey there.. so anyways i got my car and the stock speakers in the door (back 6x9's were replaced) have bad rubber-rott, actually there is nothing but just the paper and tweeters left lol... so i got some new speakers that i want to use..

now i did a quick search but didn't find anything to much.. the stock speaker plastic holder thing is made for the stock speaker an exact fit.. what do you guys use to replace this part? or do you just cut it a bit? seems like my new speakers won't fit in even if i cut the whole backs off (of the plastic speakers mounts) i need something that will screw into my door that i can screw my speakers onto... but also noticed the clearence for the window is critical so i cant just stick them in there or else the windows will hit...

any suggestions on what i can buy? wood? or pvc plastic? or modify stock plastic thing... buy new speakers? (these are 6 1/2")


lol cool deal thanks for any help
---

[89accord_lxi_coupe]

what kind of a space difference are we talking here? i know the suggestion of cutting of the basket would come up. i'm wondering if you could get away with using some type of spacers or even small washers to make up for it. i don't think there would be an issue of fit with the cover if you used some spacers or washers. would probably have to use a longer screw to fit the cover on though, but screws are pretty cheap. well in big cities screws can be more expensive, haha sorry.

[mouchyn]

i just cut the backs off those baskets. I installed my 5.25" mids from my JL component set and they fit perfectly. That tells me that 6.5s up front will require a custom mount for sure.

have you ever worked with fiberglass before?

[89accord_lxi_coupe]

i just searched best buy for 5.25"s and it said they didn't fit our cars. really shouldn't surprise me i guess. they were the pioneer ones that ran like 25 watts RMS. you say they fit perfectly? hmmm i should check what Circuit City has.

[TheWatcher]

Hashfield,

From reading your post, it sounds like you have two problems, (1) the speaker won't fit in the stock speaker bracket (2) the speaker is too deep, so the window hits the back of the speaker. You just committed the big mistake of buying your speakers without making sure they would fit the doors. If anyone else reads this post and is thinking of buying speakers, buy speakers that fit the doors!

Now the first problem is the easier of the two. Follow everyone else's advice and cut the plastic speaker bracket/enclosure. But my tip is to use a razor and/or dremel to cut as little off as possible. The reason I say cut as little as possible to make it fit is because the plastic speaker bracket/enclosure protects the speaker from water/moisture in the door. Tip #2, get a replacement set of plastic speaker brackets from the jy before you cut the plastic speaker bracket, since the dealer charges an arm and a leg for them. Now if you ever change speakers in the future and need the old plastic speaker brackets back, you have them.

The second problem is not easy. If you install "spacers" (something to eat up the space you need to clear the window), the plastic cover that screws on over the speaker will look raised (not flush with the rest of the door panel). The result is a cheap, ghetto look that will be a constant eye-sore, but it won't interfere with the windows. Surprisingly, this is your best solution (unless you want to ditch you speakers for speakers that fit, which is the best solution).

Or you can create custom door panels from fiberglass to fit your speakers, but the custom door panel would be more expensive than new speaker to have custom made for you. And making them yourself is a PITA. Not a good option IMO.

Or you can weld something to stop the window from moving down past the speaker. I have seen this mod suggested before in car audio forums, but you won't be able to roll the windows down completely. A really ghetto, lame solution IMO.

So make a choice and let us know how everything turns out.

If it were me, I would RMA the speakers, pay the restocking fee, and get speakers that are shallow enough so the windows do not hit the speakers. I went the ghetto approach and cut the plastic speaker COVERs on my old '87 Civic. It looked terrible and I always regretted it. And the plastics cover replacements from Honda wereoutrageously expensive, so I lived with it until I donated the car. I made sure the speakers fit my 3g, and I am a happy camper.

Peace.

[88accordalltheway]

i just searched best buy for 5.25"s and it said they didn't fit our cars. really shouldn't surprise me i guess. they were the pioneer ones that ran like 25 watts RMS. you say they fit perfectly? hmmm i should check what Circuit City has.

hey man what you got against best buy? I work there man, dont hate!
Haha, well yea, we do indeed have 5.25" in our doors, besbuys computer sucks and is always wrong. Return the speakers and get ones that fit.

[HaShfIeNd]

ooooooooooooooooooh 5.25s you say? well lol that makes sense then... i'm sure glad i didn't pay an arm and a leg for these speakers... i just wanted something that would quickly replace my stock ones.. lol.. well i definately will get speakers that fit then i don't want my accord to be all ghetto haha i like to do things the right way

Hashfield,

From reading your post, it sounds like you have two problems, (1) the speaker won't fit in the stock speaker bracket (2) the speaker is too deep, so the window hits the back of the speaker. You just committed the big mistake of buying your speakers without making sure they would fit the doors. If anyone else reads this post and is thinking of buying speakers, buy speakers that fit the doors!

Now the first problem is the easier of the two. Follow everyone else's advice and cut the plastic speaker bracket/enclosure. But my tip is to use a razor and/or dremel to cut as little off as possible. The reason I say cut as little as possible to make it fit is because the plastic speaker bracket/enclosure protects the speaker from water/moisture in the door. Tip #2, get a replacement set of plastic speaker brackets from the jy before you cut the plastic speaker bracket, since the dealer charges an arm and a leg for them. Now if you ever change speakers in the future and need the old plastic speaker brackets back, you have them.

The second problem is not easy. If you install "spacers" (something to eat up the space you need to clear the window), the plastic cover that screws on over the speaker will look raised (not flush with the rest of the door panel). The result is a cheap, ghetto look that will be a constant eye-sore, but it won't interfere with the windows. Surprisingly, this is your best solution (unless you want to ditch you speakers for speakers that fit, which is the best solution).

Or you can create custom door panels from fiberglass to fit your speakers, but the custom door panel would be more expensive than new speaker to have custom made for you. And making them yourself is a PITA. Not a good option IMO.

Or you can weld something to stop the window from moving down past the speaker. I have seen this mod suggested before in car audio forums, but you won't be able to roll the windows down completely. A really ghetto, lame solution IMO.

So make a choice and let us know how everything turns out.

If it were me, I would RMA the speakers, pay the restocking fee, and get speakers that are shallow enough so the windows do not hit the speakers. I went the ghetto approach and cut the plastic speaker COVERs on my old '87 Civic. It looked terrible and I always regretted it. And the plastics cover replacements from Honda wereoutrageously expensive, so I lived with it until I donated the car. I made sure the speakers fit my 3g, and I am a happy camper.

Peace.

thanks again man that puts it in perspective, i had already bought the cutting discs for my dremel but thought i'd post here before i went cutting way at the plastic...

[TheWatcher]

BTW, you don't have to settle for 5.25" speakers (unless you are going component, in which case you have to get amp(s), cross-overs, etc.), I have 6.5" coaxials in my doors. 5.25 is great for component speakers, but then you have to mount the tweeters in a non-stock installation. Keeping it stock-looking is my way of keeping the thieves away. If thieves see a tweeter, they know you got component speakers, amps, cross-overs, etc.

Peace.

[HaShfIeNd]

BTW, you don't have to settle for 5.25" speakers (unless you are going component, in which case you have to get amp(s), cross-overs, etc.), I have 6.5" coaxials in my doors. 5.25 is great for component speakers, but then you have to mount the tweeters in a non-stock installation. Keeping it stock-looking is my way of keeping the thieves away. If thieves see a tweeter, they know you got component speakers, amps, cross-overs, etc.

Peace.

for sure about the thieves, thats why i want to use the stock covers and stuff so it just looks normal nothing fancy, thieves = bad... dont want my stuff ripped off a week later after installing it.. i just want something easy, these speakers are so cheap they arn't worth going through all the effort of mounting them in the doors if its not very easy... i don't really have an amp or subs yet, just a nice kenwood deck and some crappy speakers ATM... but its always good to know for future reference -- the speakers are so cheap i could settle for a ghetto look until i get something better... i dunno...what about a quick fix until i get something better? these speakers sound better than no speakers :\ long screws and spacers? would work pretty well.... its to bad because of the way it doesn't fit the screws would be at an angle...lol

[TheWatcher]

My Kenwood Excelon has a security code that you can program in. If the power is cut, the HU is dead w/o the code. There are 9999 possible codes. If your Kenwood HU has an option to program a security code, make sure you program the code, so you're HU is worthless if stolen. Register the HU with Kenwood, so if the thieves show up at the nearest Kenwood Repair Center (asking Kenwood to reset the code), the serial number will not match their ID, and Kenwood will know it's stolen and call the cops.

As for a temporary fix, just install it with something as a spacer, depending on how much space you need to clear. Get the longer screws at a hardware store. Get another pair of plastic speaker brackets at the jy (so you still have the good pair of speaker brackets when you new speakers arrive), and cut the bracket to fit the speaker. Build up enough space behind the speaker bracket to clear the window, I would use something non-conductive (like the foam they use for XTC baffles) so you don't short the speaker by mistake. Then instead of using the stock speaker cover, use whatever came in the box. That way, if someone breaks it (since it's no longer flush to the door panel), you don't lose your stock plastic speaker covers that came with the car. It will look TERRIBLE, but should last until you get your new speakers. The important thing is not to destroy anything you might need for the new speakers, when installing the temporary speakers.

Peace.

[Hash_man_Se_i]

The opening is for a 6.5" speaker, but I would reccomend making a wood mount out of some good quality MDF to space the speaker out a bit. I had to have this done even with my 5.25" componant set, and the stock SE-i grilles barely worked.

Depth I have found is the main issue... Luckily my new speakers are 5mm shallower then my current ones, lol.

[HaShfIeNd]

My Kenwood Excelon has a security code that you can program in. If the power is cut, the HU is dead w/o the code. There are 9999 possible codes. If your Kenwood HU has an option to program a security code, make sure you program the code, so you're HU is worthless if stolen. Register the HU with Kenwood, so if the thieves show up at the nearest Kenwood Repair Center (asking Kenwood to reset the code), the serial number will not match their ID, and Kenwood will know it's stolen and call the cops.

Peace.

hey good deal i have that, saw the option but didn't relize the extent of its use... thats valuble info thx :

[89accord_lxi_coupe]

hey man what you got against best buy? I work there man, dont hate!
Haha, well yea, we do indeed have 5.25" in our doors, besbuys computer sucks and is always wrong. Return the speakers and get ones that fit.

i got nothing against best buy, actually trying to get a job there for at least the summer. i just meant it from the standpoint of the computer probably doesn't exactly know all cars and fits. whatever, i'm just glad to hear the 5.25" speakers fit drop in.

[shepherd79]

this is what you can do.
get the speakers, the ones you like. (i have alpine 6.5 coax all the way around).
cut the back of the clastic mount so the magnet will go through.
mount the speaker and check the power window for clearance. if you have problems with window, you will have to find more shallow speakers.
if you start making custom mounts and so on, you will never make it look stock.

[catalin]

And here's someting that you haven't thought about.

Remove 10mm bolt holding the window rail in place. Insert metal washers or metal tube with a thickness of no more than 1/2". Thread new longer bolt through and voila more depth for your speakers.

6.5" speakers are the ones to go with.. No matter how much you spend on 5.25". Bigger speakers will perform better and provide more ouput..

Good luck... and Hash Man sell me the side markers!!

[colo88lxi]

I installed some Infinity 6002i's last year and cut the back out of the basket to make them fit. I also installed some old water deflectors that came with a pair of speakers that I bought a few years ago. They are basically a 1/2 cone that goes over that top half of the speaker to deflect any water that may drip down. The ones I had happen to fit perfectly with no modifications. You might check with some of your local stereo installers and see if they happen to have any of these.

[Hash_man_Se_i]

6.5" speakers are the ones to go with.. No matter how much you spend on 5.25". Bigger speakers will perform better and provide more ouput..

I wish i could fit 165kp's in my car, but my old Focal 136k's had a 66mm mounting depth and barely fit... and the 165's are 71mm.

[mouchyn]

6.5" speakers are the ones to go with.. No matter how much you spend on 5.25". Bigger speakers will perform better and provide more ouput..

this isn't completely true. it depends on what you mean by "perform better." In a component setup, 5.25's will provide a more accurate mid-bass and mid-range than the 6.5s. The smaller the cone, the easier it is to move accurately.

output, sure. bigger cone area will yield more air movement for a given power. Not everyone is after big output, though. The difference in accuracy between the 6.5s and the 5.25s was like night and day in my accord.

[catalin]

Maybe but most people are after output... especially if they do not have subwoofers in the vehicle.
Besides the 5.25'' will crap out before the 6.5" do at higher volume levels. (comparing same brand speakers of course)

[mouchyn]

Besides the 5.25'' will crap out before the 6.5" do at higher volume levels. (comparing same brand speakers of course)

again, that has a lot to do with speaker and amp quality. If you're running the speakers off the head unit's amp, they will distort way before reaching the limits of the speaker regardless of size. Actually, running 5.25s off the head unit would, theorhetically, yield better sound at higher volumes than the 6.5s since they require less power to output a given volume.

I have installed many many 5.25 coaxials in customer's cars that will blow your ears out way before distorting. Generally, I tell people that for the sake of installation, the 5.25 would be a better choice. If they want more low-end response, they can upgrade the 6x9s in the rear deck or install a small sub.

the amount of work require to make 6.5s fit isn't worth the TINY gain in volume you get, especially when you consider the loss of tonal accuracy. I'm not tryin to be difficult or bust anyone's balls. It's just not fair to say to someone "get these because they are better than those." there is no such thing as a broad statement to justify claims like that. It's our job to let the person know what their options are, what the benefits and drawbacks of each option are, then let them decide.

in this case, since it seems like he just bought cheap speakers to fill the holes, it might be more worth his time to just buy another set of cheap 5.25s and be done with it. no speaker basket modding, no worries about window clearance, etc.

[HaShfIeNd]

again, that has a lot to do with speaker and amp quality. If you're running the speakers off the head unit's amp, they will distort way before reaching the limits of the speaker regardless of size. Actually, running 5.25s off the head unit would, theorhetically, yield better sound at higher volumes than the 6.5s since they require less power to output a given volume.

I have installed many many 5.25 coaxials in customer's cars that will blow your ears out way before distorting. Generally, I tell people that for the sake of installation, the 5.25 would be a better choice. If they want more low-end response, they can upgrade the 6x9s in the rear deck or install a small sub.

the amount of work require to make 6.5s fit isn't worth the TINY gain in volume you get, especially when you consider the loss of tonal accuracy. I'm not tryin to be difficult or bust anyone's balls. It's just not fair to say to someone "get these because they are better than those." there is no such thing as a broad statement to justify claims like that. It's our job to let the person know what their options are, what the benefits and drawbacks of each option are, then let them decide.

in this case, since it seems like he just bought cheap speakers to fill the holes, it might be more worth his time to just buy another set of cheap 5.25s and be done with it. no speaker basket modding, no worries about window clearance, etc.

aww dawg you pulled the words right out of my mouth! i'm down for quality over quanitity... and exactly.. the fact that i bought the best cheapest speakers i could find just to fill the wholes makes it rediculous to mod anything for them...i will go get some 5.25's and they should do until i get my real system..

eventually i do plan on powering some nice 6x9's with a small amp etc.. that should be a nice setup.. my kenwood stereo has a bunch of options for speakers back/fronts/SW so they also allows me to in a sense "fine tune" speakers that i get.. but some nice quality 5.25's should be decent for the treble and higher mids i'm looking for in my doors... i don't listen to a lot of rap and what not.. i actually listen to a lot of metal so i like the high trebles and mids of the higher bass stuff.. of course i love to bump too :P

anyhow thanks for the lots of input.. definately dont go anything ghetto with your car just get the right size.. decent quality and crank the mofo!

[sporkHSP]

My car has 6.5s all around... I dont know what was modded, I had Circuit City install all my crap for like $50. It all fits well, and looks completely stock,and the windows work fine. Maybe not the passenger side isn't too quick all the time, but that motor needs a good beating I think.

[FyreDaug]

I installed MB Quart PCE-216's (6.5") and the crossovers on the door. I took out the plastic basket thing and just drilled right into the door panel for now. I'm going to build a box behind it for them because they are just free air right now, and a top notch speaker shouldnt be free air.

You can MAKE anything fit.

[Hash_man_Se_i]

I installed MB Quart PCE-216's (6.5") and the crossovers on the door. I took out the plastic basket thing and just drilled right into the door panel for now. I'm going to build a box behind it for them because they are just free air right now, and a top notch speaker shouldnt be free air.

You can MAKE anything fit.

Lol.... thats funny... Your mb quarts were designed to sound good in a sound board... which is most likely enclosed... hence them needing an enclosure which is total BS.

The best speakers in the world are designed to sound best in cars, without building enclosures for them, I have never heard of such a thing in my life... When youre talking subs, free-air is crap, but when you are talking about a set of component speakers, it should not make a difference... and I cant say I have ever seen a car which would be able to house a "box" and a set of speakers in its door, it just wouldn't happen/

[FyreDaug]

No no, those quarts are good for mid bass, and I cant even produce that in the door, the enclosure will be in a q-pod, a sealed box will produce better bass, the 60-2500hz will sound crisper in an enclosure, I can barely send any bass to em without them going all out with excursion

Lol.... thats funny... Your mb quarts were designed to sound good in a sound board... which is most likely enclosed... hence them needing an enclosure which is total BS.

You contradict yourself