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Thread: Suspension Slopiness

  1. #1
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    Question Suspension Slopiness

    My 88 Accord LXI has a case of suspension mushiness. Here the roads are not very smooth and broken pavement really tosses my little accord all over the place.

    So far I have replaced:

    1) Tokico HP's all 4 corners
    2) KYB rear shock bushings
    3) Napa rubber rear sway bar end link bushings
    4) ES Poly front end links and bar bushings
    5) Kumho Esta HP4 Tires

    This improved things alot but the car still is easily disturbed by road irregularities. The alignment checks out ok, however the mechanic said the car has some sag and the camber is out slightly.

    I wonder if the rest of the suspension bushings are marshmallow like given their age? Through all the uprades, I still get a bad squeak from the front too. Perhaps the upper control arm bushings are dry/wasted.

    Any suggestions for the next step?



  2. #2
    LX User superguillermo's Avatar
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    what exactly do you mean by mushiness?

  3. #3
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    When the road is rough the car pitches alot and feels really unstable. I've checked the balljoints, bearings, and steering. Everything is tight.

    I suspect the cummulative flex of all those old soft bushings is momentarily wacking out my alignment settings when the road is rough. This gives the sensation of unstability.

    For example, I once owned an 85 Nissan Sentra. And that car handled similar in that the side to side flex of the rear lower control arm gave it odd handling characteristics on rough roads.
    Last edited by possum; 05-12-2005 at 08:52 PM.

  4. #4

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    Replacing the radius rod and upper control arm bushings may give you a little crisper turn-in depending on the condtion of the parts you have now. Check the front subframe bolts. I remember reading a TSB about a noise coming from them.
    Mike

  5. #5


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    Quote Originally Posted by AZmike
    Replacing the radius rod and upper control arm bushings may give you a little crisper turn-in depending on the condtion of the parts you have now. Check the front subframe bolts. I remember reading a TSB about a noise coming from them.

    Not fimilair with those tires and you didnt state the size but if there speed rated or have short sidewalls they will add to a ruff ride. I have an 88 lxi as well and they ride pretty hard esp. with shitty up north roads. I have to thru PA next week and I am shuddering the thought there roads are the worst.

    You can try running less air pressure try 30 fnrt 25 rear. That helps keep the rear from feeling like its just skipping around. Also remember the harder the bushings you put in your car the more your gonna feel the road.


    wp

  6. #6
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    The Tires have actually improved things alot. My old tires were worn out, cracked, had some cupping, etc. I have been running tire pressures at about 30psi front and back. That makes for a harder ride, but I guess it saves gas. Might try 26 psi like the door sticker says. I couldnt use such low pressures with my old tires. They leaked air too much around the beads. Good ole Vermont Winters and all the salt they put on the roads causes bead leaks when the alluminum corrodes at the bead seal.

    The radius arm bushings might have something to do with it. I will try to find some of those.

  7. #7


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    Standard front end check,

    1: jack up one side of the car till the tire is off the ground other side must be on the ground still. I use the jacking point under the doors.

    2: grab the tire 3 and 9 o clock postion and shake/rock back and forth slow at first. might needsome one to help look underneath. This checks tie-rods,steering rack etc. start kinda slow and work your way up a little harder. Your looking for loosness. Use common sense of course the steering wheel will move or the other tire may move if you shake the shit otta it.

    3: Grab the tire 12 and 6 o clock. Rock back and fourth.This checks the wheel bearing and ball joints other links

    4: this check might show ball joints/upper link a little better. Use a pry bar under the tire at the 6 o clock pos. pry up look for slop ,looseness while prying.


    This is your basic "front end check" any good mechanic should know. It works for all makes and models of cars.

    I forgot to add this.

    wp

  8. #8
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    I am running 28/28 psi now with my new tires. They are stock size 195/60HR14 Kumho Esta HP4. Got em at tirerack for 40 each plus shipping. Very quiet tire and the ride is much improved; not nearly so harsh. The sloppiness is still there a bit, 17 year old marshmellowed bushings.

  9. #9

    Busted_Blue's Avatar
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    just a question, but has it occur that maybe the springs are dead? Struts are one thing but how about the springs? It is possible that one of the springs is dead causing an awkward compression resulting in "sloppiness."

    I'm just thinking of all the possibilites.

  10. #10
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    Never really considered the springs. None of them are broken.

    I got a terrible squeak coming from the front upper wishbones though. At least thats where I think its coming from. So I figure the strut bushings and at least those are wasted and need to be replaced.

  11. #11
    LX User spades27's Avatar
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    the ball joint could be dryed out or a dry spot in it i had somwhat the same prob and pulled the boot back and sprayed sum lub in it (no more squeeks)

  12. #12
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    hmm....I will take a look at that. Just need to pull the dust covers off and look. Of course if I find thats whats making the noise, i might just replace the entire arm with ball joint.

  13. #13
    LX User spades27's Avatar
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    let me know if it worked

  14. #14
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    Well I finally got some time later this week to check those balljoints. My handling problem seems to be getting worse. Lately I noticed the steering seems to be tightening up. For example, the steering fails to automatically return to center when exiting turns in the road. Before the steering always wanted to straiten itself out. I suspect some bad balljoints for sure. I think I will start sourcing the entire lower control arms with bushings and new balljoints. This could be a real pain to change because I know on the drivers side the outer bushing bolt is frozen into the bushing. It could be that way on the inners too. I do have access to an old parts car. Might see if I can get those apart to get some free bolts.

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