i've been searching for like... days now for some replacement calipers. i've found some oem one's, but i want a little better than oem. i've got some ebc green stuff pads and some sport brake rotors.. i NEED calipers for a sense of completion.. or something..
anybody help me out?
jdm dual pistonOriginally Posted by sofaking_bob
OEM do a good job...especially with aftermarket rotors and pads. Just make sure you paint your stuff (calipers and rotors) before it gets all rusted...especially since you're gonna have new rims! Good luck.
i put on the wheels today... 17"... New brakes and rotors go on saturday... hopefully... i guess that the oem will do for now. after my rear-disc upgrade i'll revive the search. for now, though, i'm upgrading the suspension. this shit costs.
Suspension is one of the biggest role in a car. After all, it is part of the system that connects your chassis to the road.
Rear disc brakes are a great addition for looks. I don't exactly feel the difference unless I'm really pushing it. I'm not sure if it was worth the extra unsprung weight.
try something off another car, a newer honda or something
I just installed Brembo OE rotors and Brembo Pads (which are very similar to metal masters) and used rebuilt calipers from autozone. The new calipers are excellent quality. No complaints. And they only cost 30 dollars each.
I noticed an improvement in pedal stiffness when I switched on the rear discs. My drum setup was in good shape and the system had fresh fluid so it wasn't just the difference between worn out parts and new. Did you install the SEi proportioning valve when you made the switch?
Did you weigh both setups? I'm not as sure as you are that the drums would be lighter, but I never bothered to find out. They seemed about the same when I was handling them.
Mike
i didn't weigh them but handling them, the rear disc brakes was heavier. after all i'm a weak guy and the rear disc brakes were heavier to handle than the drums.
as far as the pedal stiffness, it changed a bit. Rear disc brakes are supposed to lock up faster so perhaps so. But I also play into mind that we pyschologically think it is better since we just changed it. It's like the butt dyno, its not very accurate at all. But I may need to rebleed my brakes now. The pedal is becoming mushy, probably some air or perhaps I actually reached wet boiling point if there is some moisture in the system.
oh yea I didn't install the SEi proportioning valve so perhaps that might change things but I'm too lazy to install one let alone find one.
get an adjustable one... solves that problem...
and IMO, new calipers would be great... i hate you, now i have to go buy those, too...
and nobody at all has actually weighed the parts? i figure someone would have by now... makin me go to the junkyard like this for a set of brakes to weigh them :p
In the November 2004 Issue of Car Audio & Electronics, their "Project Turbo Brick" claimed a weight reduction of 20 lbs. due to brake modification(s). They were using PBC's Big Brake Kit. You will need custom mounting brackets to fit those on a 3g.
Based on the above, I would say the rear disc conversion, done right, should result in weight reduction.
Peace.
The Watcher sees all and knows all. I like to watch!
it's possible, but it's just as possible for it to be heavier...
one note on adjustable propotioning valve. THey only work for cars with front and rear system, not the diagonal like ours. Wilwood makes knob and lever type prop valves.
just a thought, but did you bother to replace your rubber brake lines? its well worth it to replace them. mine were deteriorated and about to bust. i replaced the lines, rotors, caplipers and pads. much better stopping.
Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
*Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap
i thought all cars were diagonal for safety reasons.
nope not all of them.
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