What's Up All.
We all know that when you hear clicking whilst turning your CV Joint is fried.
I was told by this guy that "you could drive them forever without any other issue besides the clicking. It this Tru or false.
[/U]88 Accord Limited
What's Up All.
We all know that when you hear clicking whilst turning your CV Joint is fried.
I was told by this guy that "you could drive them forever without any other issue besides the clicking. It this Tru or false.
[/U]88 Accord Limited
The clicking is the first sign that the joint is either dry or worn, or both.
Get it changed.
Phil
Already Got the Parts.
Tnx
Mike.
eventually they can and do break.. change it before this happens
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
Well to answer your question directly, no it is not true that you can use the CV joint indefinitely. Like any other mechanical part, the CV joint will eventually wear out. The grease inside eventually breaks down too. The clicking you hear is the result of the weakest part, the protective rubber boot, tearing and letting grease out and dirt in. That is inevitable unless you inspect the boots/axles regularly and fix any problems before they cause damage (most people don't even know what the axle is though)
3axap.
------------------------------------------------
Yep, happened to my Uncle in his old Escort, twice! That's just Ford for ya though
Evening All,
Quick Question, While I'm turning I Hear a sound. Which tells me that the CV joint is toast, But.... It doesn't sound like clicking, is sounds like grinding/clicking. As well it only makes the noise when I'm applying throttle throughout the turn, If I coast through a turn it sound's smooth. Hmm,
What is this?????
THNX in Advance...
M
yea its in the steering column, mine does the same thing. I dont know what it is tho....
Originally Posted by 2drSE-i
No NO man it's comming from My wheeles..
M.
same problem!
Thats a CV joint... one of mine was like that on my hatchand the other clicked; I ended up replacing both of them. Its way easier and almost as cheap to just buy a whole new axle assembly, so I'd recommend doing that.
IF you drive like an old lady you can make the clicking ones last for a few extra months, but you run the risk of them dying and leaving you stranded..... I'd do it now so you don't end up stuck paying the towtruck (been there, done that! -NOT advised)
It sounds like that one is on its last legs.... I'd pull it asap
The problem with the gene pool is that there is no lifeguard;
And the stupid people are breeding......
http://www.cardomain.com/id/bluebead
Mine acted exactly the same way. The boot was torn and dirt and sand from winter road treatment ground it down. I replaced both axles at the same time and all the problems went away.
Here are a few pics of my 2month old remanufacturered CV joint that went last year.
It frickin blew!
My experienc: Don't let this happen to you!
The problem with the gene pool is that there is no lifeguard;
And the stupid people are breeding......
http://www.cardomain.com/id/bluebead
its your CV joint. they dont always make the exact same sound, but if it only happens when you're throttling through a corner and it clicks/grinds etc, its the CV joint.
Nothin' 2 Old Racing
Yeah, change it if you have the time and $$. You can buy some time by getting a good, thick grease that will stay in place and lube it up if your boot is ripped. I've done that on my mazda just to keep the joint/bearings from going out. Don't neglect it or you'll be buying the joint too.
"I know your prolem.....Loose nut behind the wheel."
I remember when both of my cv boot ripped the once clicked like mad and the other one made a grinding sound all the time that was hardly noticeable. The half shafts are pretty cheap when you trade in your old ones, which hopefully you will, and are easy to put it with only a ball joint puller, basic hand tools, jack stands, and a floor jack. The hardest part is taking off the big axle nut. But if your ball joints are beat right now it is also a great time to replace those while you have the axle out.
75 Malibu for sale, fully restored, $5,500 obo
https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=43055
Currently driving a 95 LS soon to be turbo integra.
wowo bad picts man yah i jsut replaced my akel and cv joint , my father says that all the older hondas like that may need a lower control arm b/c the bushing and coller and bolt on the bottom end up fuseing togeather but try alot of penetrating oil and a good air gun cuz that dam part id get new at the dealer is like 200
1989 Accord Lx-i hatchback (current DD project)
1986 Olds Cutlass 442 clone (never ending project)
3Geez resident body man
Owner of Wreck-less auto body
dang... I must be the lucky one... my joints have been without boots for years and they haven't dies yet... well correction the boot is still there but the grease has leaked out cause there is a big old tear in it.
- llia
noyce bluebead... yeah my inner cv joint on my reman driver side axle looked like that last season.
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
If the lower bolt doesn't come loose, don't mess with it unless you're prepared with some serious air tools. I went through 2 big cutoff wheels and an air hacksaw blade. Took me something like 10 hours. You'll also need a press. You can just replace the whole arm though.
When it comes loose, it's an easy job.
if you notice the boot is ripped AND it's not clicking, you can get a repalcemetn boot you can put on without pulling the driveshaft, messy and painful yes, cheap, no ( they are pretty pricey considering you can get a driveshaft for about $60 ( if your driveshaft explodes, it will be more, the core has to be rebuildable).
Personally, I change the driveshafts now ( one of the replacement boots is still ins ervice btw)..
1-visit friendly garage, get them to bust the axel nut loose
2-remove wheel
3-bust lower balljoint loose ( watch that boot!)
4-pop driveshaft out of tranny with big bladed screwdriver( jacking the car high on the side you're working prevent tranny fluid loss USE JACKSTANDS!
5-change the driveshaft, bolt it all up
pay yourself $45 an hour for your time, take your gurl to dinner.
hahah yep totally... i need to do both sides on ambers hatch... guess that means dinner and a movie....
Bump,
Got a remanufactured CV shaft installed in late March. Started clicking within a month. Brought it back to the shop twice. The first time they didnt hear the noise. This time I drove with the technician and we both heard it. Oddly, it clicks louder when the car is cold. Got an appointment to have it replaced on Monday.
I don't know what brand of remanufactured shaft you got but I replaced mine twice and still had problems. I replaced them again a couple of weeks ago with some brand new ones (not rebuilt) that they sell at Checker/Schucks/Kragen stores. They cost $10-20 more per axle but they seem to be working great.
Yep, happened to my Uncle in his old Escort, twice! That's just Ford for ya though
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks