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Thread: Smoking at WOT

  1. #1
    LX User mag_pbg's Avatar
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    Smoking at WOT

    During idle and just regulor exceleration my car doesn't smoke but as soon as I hit WOT it starts smoking bad, so bad that my muffler tip is covered in soot, and my liscence plate is stained black from all the smoke. I honestly don't see it but after racing someone, somebody always mentions how bad my car smokes. I don't think it is oil cause it always has plenty of oil and at the right level.
    "Popup headlights the pinnacle of 80's technology"
    Ram air intake bored out throttle body MSD Blaster coil Advanced ignition Ported Head with 3angle valve job and shaved Delta 260 cam Pacesetter header 2.25inch exhaust Mallory Hyfire 6



  2. #2
    LX User Versanick's Avatar
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    do you have the pgm-fi light coming on? the car will run real rich if something like the TDC or CYL inputs are messed up, or if it's stuck in closed loop by the ecu not getting a temperature reading... lots of other reasons. the black smoke is unburned gas, probably running rich. make sure you check your oil if you lay on it a lot. I run rich as hell and have to change the oil every 500 miles. and it's already black as black paint by then.

    gas in your oil will ruin your bearings and such in your engine. change the oil fast if you keep shooting smoke.

  3. #3
    LX User mag_pbg's Avatar
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    Yes my engine light is on but that is from no EGR. I'll check for codes here in a bit to see if anything comes up. is there anyway to get it from running rich.
    "Popup headlights the pinnacle of 80's technology"
    Ram air intake bored out throttle body MSD Blaster coil Advanced ignition Ported Head with 3angle valve job and shaved Delta 260 cam Pacesetter header 2.25inch exhaust Mallory Hyfire 6

  4. #4
    LX User Versanick's Avatar
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    Visa versa, was my point. your o2 sensor will correct some richness (a couple points of a/f ratio worth)... if your o2 sensor is gone, that's one reason to run rich, but often the o2 sensor comes with its own host of symptoms that are diagnosable on its own.

    Put your ignition to II (on) and look at your ECU under the seat and see how many times the red lights blink. if they don't blink, start the car and let it idle the few seconds it takes until the PGM-FI light comes on, and the SECOND it comes on, the light will blink... BE watching the ECU for how many times it blinks as the PGM-FI light comes on. count them.

    My richness is due to a code 8 (8 fairly quick blinks) meaning that my TDC sensor isn't sending proper signal (or none at all)... and I probably have the CYL sensor messing up too, as the whole unit could be causing a problem. One code at a time will present itself, as far as I know. Someone could correct me.

    My TDC code is a reason for it to run rich. Running rich, on its own, shouldn't throw a code. However, whatever's causing the PGM-FI light is probably whatever is causing your car to run rich otherwise. For instance, the thermo sending unit that is supposed to tell your ECU approximately what temp your car is running at will make your fuel injection system run in open loop instead of closed loop after a certain point. If that's messed up, it won't tell your ECU that you're past 112 degrees or 155 degrees or whatever the action is (for instance, changing to open loop happens at one of those temperatures, approx)... and if you're stuck in 'closed loop' mode, you'll be running reasonably rich. Open loop is when, I believe, the o2 sensor will then be allowed to send signal to your ECU to tell it to lean out a bit, among other things.

    good luck bro... I hope someone else who knows more what they're talking about will respond besides me. I still suck

    peace
    paul

  5. #5
    LX User mag_pbg's Avatar
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    I'll check the codes tomorow, but here recently my idle has been really high, in park it revs to atleast 2.5k and at just sitting in gear it will rev to about 1.5K. I have tried the idle adjust screw but not much. Do you think it might have to do with me removing most of the sensors in the black box¿
    "Popup headlights the pinnacle of 80's technology"
    Ram air intake bored out throttle body MSD Blaster coil Advanced ignition Ported Head with 3angle valve job and shaved Delta 260 cam Pacesetter header 2.25inch exhaust Mallory Hyfire 6

  6. #6
    LX User Versanick's Avatar
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    Black box sensors are very important There is even an automatic transmission thing in there to make the idle lower when you put it into drive... if you have a fivespeed, there are still a whole slew of things that are controlled in there...

    hmm

  7. #7
    LX User mag_pbg's Avatar
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    I have a automatic, I left the two small sensors that have the vents on top that I think controll the Distributor advance and retard and then a large sensor in the shape of a cylinder.
    "Popup headlights the pinnacle of 80's technology"
    Ram air intake bored out throttle body MSD Blaster coil Advanced ignition Ported Head with 3angle valve job and shaved Delta 260 cam Pacesetter header 2.25inch exhaust Mallory Hyfire 6

  8. #8
    LX User mag_pbg's Avatar
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    Ok, I went out and checked the ECU for any codes and the only one was the code 12 for EGR. Oh I fixed my high idle, it turned out I had a vacume line connected in the wrong spot. I guess I will just lie with the rich condition at wot.
    "Popup headlights the pinnacle of 80's technology"
    Ram air intake bored out throttle body MSD Blaster coil Advanced ignition Ported Head with 3angle valve job and shaved Delta 260 cam Pacesetter header 2.25inch exhaust Mallory Hyfire 6

  9. #9

    'A20A3''s Avatar
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    Sounds like you're still winning those races.
    -Harvey

  10. #10
    LX User mag_pbg's Avatar
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    every once in awhile I do, I could still use some more speed though lol. I held my own with a 70's el camino the other night.
    "Popup headlights the pinnacle of 80's technology"
    Ram air intake bored out throttle body MSD Blaster coil Advanced ignition Ported Head with 3angle valve job and shaved Delta 260 cam Pacesetter header 2.25inch exhaust Mallory Hyfire 6

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