a20a1 motor questions + a couple others

**FyreDaug** · 06-24-2005, 11:54 AM

Stock is about 98bhp correct? With an assumed 15% loss to the wheels thats approx 84whp. Plus with the 290XXX km on the factory motor Id be lucky to have 80hp.

Then how come, a newer sunfire (2.2L Ecotec) with 140bhp (120ish whp) doesnt have too much of a walk on me? Both are 5spd are were driven good. Went twice and same result. Sunfire weighs in at 1193kg (2629lbs)

At about 100kmh he was about 2 cars ahead of me.

And I'm currently working on a motor rebuild, and awaiting confirmation from my loan to get it done quicker.

The plans include a fully built motor, hopefully not having to bore it over, but honing the cylinders. 10.5 compression, wild cam, head work, custom intake manifold, larger carb + custom intake with a full 2.25" "ram air" (theory I had) exhaust. Balanced crank and dry sump oiling.
Question 1: Can I expect this to yield me close to 150bhp?

Question 2: How is the balance in these cars? I have a 4dr base model, and by balance I mean each corner, front/rear and side/side. Just so I know where to build stuff to try to keep it as balanced as possible.

Question 3: Optima Red top or Yellow top? Which is better

Question 4: Can the stock rods take 300bhp?

**POS carb** · 06-24-2005, 12:07 PM

1. with a weber 38/38 or a pair of 40 DCOE's and that 10.5 you should have no problem on 93 octane

2. lots of understeer. I believe the weight distribution is listed on the door frame tag. Stiffen up the rear with a sway bar.

3. red top is fine, yellow top is a deep cycle type battery if you like to leave your stereo and lights on with the car shut off for long periods of time (i.e. show cars)

4. no clue,
these cars have shity rod/stroke ratios so I wouldn't be surprised if they bend but I dunno who the hell builds chromemoly rods for these engines.

**NXRacer** · 06-24-2005, 12:10 PM

if what sean was saying about these motors, they should be able handle 300hp. The only thing thats really weak about the internals is the ring landings are shallow and prone to break if you introduce them to detonation. Other then that they're supposed to be hella strong internally.

**modu03** · 06-24-2005, 12:39 PM

yah... you gotta really beat these engines to break em.
and as far as the sunfire goes... i've beaten alot of cars that have alot more power than mine, i've beaten v8s and the people wouldn't believe that my engine is a mostly stock 4 cylinder. and the sunfire is up to 200 pounds heavier, depending on your accord body style.

however, even with an 87 with 212,000 miles on it, it still has almost perfect compression, so... not all accords will run as well, plus its the fuel injected version... your running carb right?

i am currently swapping the engine from my 87, into the 88 4dr.

**NXRacer** · 06-24-2005, 01:08 PM

mines EFI. the only way to go these days IMO. Carbs are too much of a PITA to deal with anymore. Unless its on a big block.

**racerx** · 06-24-2005, 07:25 PM

carbs are a PITA, but sometimes they can be great.

you can't adjust many things with EFI (usually a good thing), but you can adjust everything with carbs (sometimes a very bad thing).
i spent a whole day tuning my dad's 1972 Triumph GT6 (2.0 6-cylinder), just on the dual carbs. but in the end, i have every little detail tuned to precision, and dayam.

**FyreDaug** · 06-25-2005, 12:51 AM

I havent had much problem with understeer without a sway bar in the rear. The car leans like a fat chick, but even with crap tires I can keep the car straight, pushing it much more than I should. Ive even had oversteer a couple times going off an offramp punning the crap out of it doing about 80mph. I think all 4 were squeeling that time.

And by the way I got severly lubelessly raped by a TT AWD Stealth tonight. I thought I was even until he downshifted.... sad.