whats up with the bolt holding the pulley on ? we are breaking tools trying to get it loose. Air wrench won't even do it. even tryed 3/4" drive. This is the same on two engines. we tryed left and right
whats up with the bolt holding the pulley on ? we are breaking tools trying to get it loose. Air wrench won't even do it. even tryed 3/4" drive. This is the same on two engines. we tryed left and right
didn't have a problem on mine. left-hand threads. i broke it loose turning it in, though. i was using a half-inch ratchet and an impact socket. with a nice beefy extension, there really wasn't a problem.
The crank pulley bolt is the tightest bolt on the whole car. There are different techniques in getting it off. Get a six sided impact socket (17mm) on a 1/2" or 3/4" breaker bar. Jack the car up pretty far, or have a long extention past the fender. Put a 3' cheater bar over the breaker bar. You will need to keep the pulley from moving. I had someone put a big flathead screwdriver through the peep hole on tranny case to hold the flywheel. He had to put some serious pressure on it. I think you turn it counter-clockwise. Good luck
Last edited by 88Accord-DX; 06-26-2005 at 04:12 PM. Reason: add on 1/2" breaker bar
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yes, counter clockwise
these engine are on the ground. I've been using a 6' cheater bar on 3/4" driver. I have vw dunebuggies so doing this is old hat. The vw flywheel is at 240 lbs. The one on my big motor is 480 lbs. I'd say these are thigher than that. Shit all we want to do is replace the damn seal . I'am about to use a torch
Yeah, the torque has to be somewhere in the neighborhood of 500 lbs. plus. I broke a socket too. Beleive me, that s.o.b. is on there tight. I used a 3/4" impact socket (six sided) with 3/4" extention past the fender well on top on 4x4 blocks with about 4" steel cheater bar over a breaker bar to break it loose. I never seen a bolt so tight to get loose on this car.
*edit* You will need a engine stand if the engine is out the car, or be able to brase it up good. I doubt you will break the torque loose with it on the ground. If you have an engine stand, put some real heavy stuff to hold it down, like 750 lbs. Get a couple of friends to hold it. I'm telling you, it is on there good. If you heat the end of the bolt with a torch, you might twist & break it off. Then you will have more of a headache then you had in the first place.
Last edited by 88Accord-DX; 06-26-2005 at 10:52 PM. Reason: spl.
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spec is 83 foot pounds. of course most of these have been on these cars since they were built, and when the motor turns, it tightens.
84-88 83 foot lbs 89-108 lbs you are aking a chance if you heat it you could damage your crank, i just whacked it a few times on the end and used a half inch impact wrench just kept running it until it spun out. they have locktite on them plus the bolt just seizes up over time i couldn't get it to move until i got rid of the extension and put the socket directly on it. remember it's the hammering that loosens it and the extension adds extra joints to absorb some of the impact.
Last edited by lostforawhile; 06-26-2005 at 11:08 PM.
Propane torch. Go for it. Heat and cool a couple of times let it work itself loose.Originally Posted by john
wp
If you use a torch on that bolt, don't get it to hot. It will weaken the (hardening/strength) properties. Not elaborating on it. Twist head off bolt=new crank. Point blank....
Last edited by 88Accord-DX; 06-27-2005 at 01:06 AM. Reason: live & learn
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Those small Propane torches from home depot wont get it hot enough. Its only "black" hot at best be perferct in this kind of situation.
Cherry red yeah prolly not a good idea.
wp
Using a hammer and breaker bar should be your best bet
if this sin't enough force...
try jacking up the car, putting the breaker bar and socket on the bolt with the breaker bar handle pointing almost straight to the back of the car,
then put a brick under the handle and start lowering the car, using the car's weight to push the breaker bar into the brick and hopefully turn the bolt. You will also have to lock the engine, use a screwdriver on the flywheel/torque converter or put it in gear and put a screwdriver in the break rotor vents.
Eric
3geez member since October 12, 2000
"All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau
i've never been able to hod the flywheel securely enough with a screwdriver. and with putting it in gear you get a little bit of play, which is enough to keep you from freeing the bolt if it's really really tight.
i usually take a spare dogbone mount and remove the large side bushing. then i tke the starter out and set the empty ring part of the dogbone on top of the flywheel, sideways so the edges sit in between the teeth. that holds it so it won't move at all and you can crack that bolt loose.
Originally Posted by Justanothermike
my A20 is not SLOW. ur A20 is slow.
when I had to remove mine it took a good couple of min. with a 1/2 inch impact wrench to brake it. The first time I ended up breaking a extension and nearly my 1/2 socket wrench.
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well piss ; we broke the pulley today. so now it's load up two engines and take them to someone with big time air
How did you break the pulley? Your where using some kind of vise chain around it to hold it from moving?
Last edited by 88Accord-DX; 06-30-2005 at 10:09 PM.
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i have a crank pulley here if you need it. make offer.
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